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FS Sega Blast City

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Nahphoenix

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Aug 29, 2016
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Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Sega Blast City. No blue. Original Nanao monitor. Bought this a few years ago and have put zero work into figuring out the monitor issue. Time for it to go. $1500, Phoenix area, no PCBs included.
 

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Last edited:
Sorry guys, got distracted mid post. $1500, Phoenix area, no PCBs included, other than the no blue I haven't found any issues.
 
Apparently my lucky day, just logged on to post in want to buy for a candy cab in the Phoenix area
How difficult is getting the blue back in the monitor? I will be honest I know very little about monitor repair
 
Yeah I had a dead Blue gun in my Blast crt as well. Had to find a replacement.
 
Ape Cosplay said:
Just swap blue with green or red on the connector going to the neck board.
Click to expand...
If you're talking about the Horizontal (Red/Blue and Vertical (Yellow/Green) then don't do this. You can't mix H and V yoke wiring. It will fry the chassis and yoke.

However, if it's some other wiring on the neck board, please provide pics for clarity. I'm not familiar with that method. I'm speculating you mean the RGB connector? If so, that's not a reliable solution, as you introduce the possibility of the PCB not outputting the correct signal.

Best method to test/fix:
1) Connect a Test Pattern Generator (TPG) to the chassis to rule out the game PCB causing this issue.
2) Test tube guns with a rejuvenator/tester.
3) Swap the neck Chroma Transistors. Swap Blue for Red or Green. Fire it back up when done. If you lose Green or Red, then it's a bad blue transistor. Replace it to fix.

Del
 
DelsArcade said:
If you're talking about the Horizontal (Red/Blue and Vertical (Yellow/Green) then don't do this. You can't mix H and V yoke wiring. It will fry the chassis and yoke.

However, if it's some other wiring on the neck board, please provide pics for clarity. I'm not familiar with that method. I'm speculating you mean the RGB connector? If so, that's not a reliable solution, as you introduce the possibility of the PCB not outputting the correct signal.

Best method to test/fix:
1) Connect a Test Pattern Generator (TPG) to the chassis to rule out the game PCB causing this issue.
2) Test tube guns with a rejuvenator/tester.
3) Swap the neck Chroma Transistors. Swap Blue for Red or Green. Fire it back up when done. If you lose Green or Red, then it's a bad blue transistor. Replace it to fix.

Del
Click to expand...

Yokes don't connect to the neck board. They are talking about swapping the video signal wire going to the neck board (where the color drive circuit is) to rule out the signal path being an issue. Since the other two colors are known working, if you swap the color signal wires going from the chassis to the neck board and blue reappears, then your neck board is fine and the problem lies earlier in the path somewhere on the main chassis.
 
DelsArcade said:
If you're talking about the Horizontal (Red/Blue and Vertical (Yellow/Green) then don't do this. You can't mix H and V yoke wiring. It will fry the chassis and yoke.
Click to expand...
Why would I suggest that? We're talking colour guns here. You're talking about the yoke wiring, not the neckboard.
DelsArcade said:
Best method to test/fix:
1) Connect a Test Pattern Generator (TPG) to the chassis to rule out the game PCB causing this issue.
2) Test tube guns with a rejuvenator/tester.
3) Swap the neck Chroma Transistors. Swap Blue for Red or Green. Fire it back up when done. If you lose Green or Red, then it's a bad blue transistor. Replace it to fix.

Del
Click to expand...
This isn't the best method, who wants to desolder/resolder parts when we already know green and red are working? It's easier to swap two wires on the RGB connector going to the neck board (with a proper pin remover, small screwdriver or paper clip).
It's not a 100% test as lack of blue after swapping the wires leaves you with 2 possibilities: bad neckboard (most likely a bad transistor or diode) or bad gun in the tube (a rejuvenator might fix it).
But that's still progress on the troubleshooting path.
 
Its technically a more through test if you swap the color signals like has been mentioned because its testing the entire path. If you want to drill deeper or just jump right into it you can also just swap the color drive transistors though doing that wont tell you if say the color is missing out of your RGB amplifer on the board or any supporting components in line.
 
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