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Interesting. Can one use the VGA port for video output for say the Sega Blast city or any monitor with a VGA 24htz input?

I just tried the DE15 port recently, since I thought it would be an easy way to capture footage from. I don't have a scope, but I just took crude measurements with a multimeter and unfortunately it's not outputting 0.7vpp video. Reading was hovering around 1V. 1V isn't that high that I thought it would damage any equipment so I just connected as is to a Datapath capture card. The image was super washed out. I then put it through an OSSC and set Pre-ADC Gain to 0. I captured this footage off of Dirt Devils:

View: https://youtu.be/OXkCSigPpIA


Not bad. I might throw some trimmer pots on the video lines if I mess with it more.

Most monitors will expect 0.7vpp from the DE15 connector, I think? Tosh PF you can set to high impedance if you swap the connector.
 
The blast city was made for model 3 ! yes you can.

Have you actually tried connecting one that way?

I own the official Model 3 harness for the Blast and that uses the 15-pin AMP UP connector for video. And that's because -- like most monitors -- MS293X will expect 0.7vpp video on the DE15 connector.

However, what will likely work is this:

ms9_dsub_pcb.jpg


It's a DE15 adapter for the MS9. I remembered having one and sure enough I found it in a box. As it's a completely straight connection from DE15 to the video input on the MS9, it is meant for high impedance video. I can't think of any other use case for it except Model 3.
 
The blast city was made for model 3 ! yes you can.
Yeah I was just curious from a connection point of view. I suppose the official Model 3 BLAST city harness would handle all aspects to run the game.
 
The official Model 3 harness for Blast is 600-6738-20 and it appears to use the JST NH header for video... not the VGA connector
 
That's fair enough then.

All the more reason for me to hunt for one.

That and a Vf3 board lol
 
A couple days ago I was able to hack one of my Dreamcast wheels with Model 3. I only have the potentiometers connected for CN1 and 11, but it mostly works well.

VERY IMPORTANT! If you are using this controller, the wires for the pots are backwards! Red goes to GND, brown is signal, and black needs to act as 5v. Weird design on Sega's end to make pots backwards on DC wheel, but they can do what they want. :P

Will keep you guys updated on the digital inputs. I plan wiring the 4 view buttons for Daytona/Scud and the START button. ;)
 

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I quickly wired the buttons up to CN2 on the Model 3 as per the pinouts of this wiring diagram located on top of the wheel itself, and I haven't gotten any signal coming from any of the 5 switches on the controller. The pots I wired were working earlier though.
I wonder if I mis-wired the ground or 5v again. The buttons all share a ground and signal, but then go through as a configuration. Hmm... any thoughts?
(L is the black wire and difficult to see)
 

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Does anyone know where to get the connectors for the model 3 board. The only places I've seen are a seller at YAJ who sells them for 8800 yen for connectors to the Blast City, which is kinda expensive for wires lol.
 
Okay... I quickly realized that 5v and GND from both the 3-pin and 9-pin connectors of the Dreamcast Race Controller needed to be tied together, and then they go to the Model 3's filter board on CN 1 & CN 11 to their respective gnd, signal and 5v pins. To test, I quickly wired up one of the view buttons used for Harley-Davidson, and I got a signal from that button! Unfortunately, I need to run new wiring to the steering pot AND some of the digital inputs as I had cut them all up, and my soldering skills ain't too great (that or the cheapo Walmart Everlast solder I used really stinks), so I'm on the lookout for another copy of the wheel so I can have a fresh start. This is going to be a fun project when all finished up. :)
Special Shoutout to Rolins of the forums for helping me tremendously!
 
Update on my Model 2/3 collecting journey. Upon acquring a Manx TT ROM Board from Yaton to play with my setups, I discovered the game will not play properly when in a regular driving cab.
I could be slightly wrong, but I believe the pinout for Manx is this:
CN8
Pin 5 - 5v
Pin 6 - Brake (Model 3 gas)
Pin 7 - GND

CN14
Pin 5 - 5v
Pin 6 - Gas (Model 3 steering)
Pin 7 - GND
Pin 9 - Bank (Model 3 brake). I can't exactly be sure if it is pin 9 of CN8 either, since I have rear and front brakes tied for H-D

Changing the pinning using quick disconnects shouldn't be too hard for this though, as I plan playing it with my Harley panel eventually (and the excellent Motor Raid!)
 
I need a cheap method to test sega rally or manxx tt model 2 game, can I use it without driveboard? Does exist a method to adpt a DC controller for example?
Yep. You actually don't need the force feedback motors or a drive board to power it. To "play" these games you just need to wire up the pots and buttons. The official DC wheel is very easy to adapt, just look at the wiring diagram inside and cut the 3-pin and 9-pin harnesses off accordingly by looking at their colors. Just don't short the 5v or you could cook your controller. Manx has inverted steering so you will need to swap 5v and gnd for your steering pot to properly bank bike. Lastly unless you improvise you're stuck with auto transmission on most games.

Mad Catz MC2 Universal Yellow model is another solid choice. It handles well though I botched the wiring up on my first attempt. Clean wiring diagram and easy to understand. Pedals are essentially plug and play. I have another MC2 coming I'll be hooking a Scud Race shifter to once I have my talented brother help me mount it to a box. Using screw terminal blocks, I'll use the MC2 shifter for Indy 500, but for 4-speed games, I wire up the 3 switches to the 25-pin connector and the respective GND to the OUTPUT connector.

I also want to attempt hacking the Thrustmaster Freestyler Bike for PS2 to play Waverunner and H-D, cuz it has a table clamp. I used to own two of them but I sold my PS2 one earlier this year and I broke the throttle spring on the PC version, so I donated it. They're actually solid controllers but I have no idea what the wiring is like inside the Freestyler. Looking at pics online it looks like there's a small square PCB with everything connected to it, so that may be useful for hacking. Fingers crossed.

You have anymore questions please PM me. Sometimes one's advice is a lot more useful than reading a wiring schematic that is next to impossible to find on the Internet.
 
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THX very much, in a firest step I will test my sega rally without controller just run the demo in 1 or 2 hours, for you the harness supra can do it?
 
No idea what harness you are using but Model 2 requires only 5v power and GND. My Naomi PSU is a 01-0671 model from Sun Electronics, connected to a Model 3 power harness. It will work with Model 2A but that platform is a little finnicky about power. I recently replaced the filter board on my Sega Rally stack as it was totally burnt, and some traces to the RGB out were burnt as well, resulting in dim video.

Additionally, I bought a DSB2 out of a Sega Rally 2 from Missouri a few days ago, then once it arrived I wired the sound board's power connector direct to my harness. Later this week I will hook it up to power the music in my Daytona 2 after I get the sound ROMs replaced. This is mixer board I will be using to wire the sound direct from the DSB2 to one 3.5mm jack, then the sound effects from CN8 of M3 to another cable. I see this also benefitting M3 games that have only sound effects playing from CN7, where I could have my own custom music playing. I saw a guy do something similar with a Top Skater (M2C) machine way back in 2009; it might have been on mySpace and not YouTube though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824Q3WY8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
 

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Yesterday I was able to fully hook up a Yamaha MS-1 bike controller for PS2 to play my Model 2/3 motorcycle games using jumper cables crimped directly to the filter boards, so I can change polarity of pots to my liking, as well as the pinning for certain games.
You'll probably need a table clamp for this wheel as the suction cup system is rather poor, but this was a rather fun and simple mod; you open the main body of the wheel and there's the potentiometer for steering and some harnesses for the lights, but I cut those for my first attempt. Perhaps they would be cool to later wire up as the header lights in Harley LA Riders.
Previously I've opened up two other motorcycle controllers; the PS2 Thrustmaster Freestyler Bike and the Interact Xcellerator for N64, and they both require much more complex disassembly and the Interact one needs modification to pots. I ended up damaging the brake spring on the Thrustmaster one, so sadly I ended up tossing it.

To access all the buttons and pots you open up the big screw in the middle to pull the bar from the shaft, then you open up the face of the controller from the back with 5 screws. All the connections are labeled on the PCB, though the grounds for buttons are not labeled so I had to do a bit of guess work to ground those. For testing purposes I just plugged jumper wires of the buttons and grounds into the filter board and it gave a signal.

- These are the jumper wires I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QFPGDGG?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
- And I additionally soldered the jumper wires from the JST connectors inside the wheel to this data cable, as IMHO it makes a much cleaner outcome than having a bunch of wires dangling the floor. It's not the most snug cable I've used but it's just nicer to use data cables than use bare wires and zip tie them all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082NKWZ25?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
 

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