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Sega Model 2/3 A/B/C - CRX and how I stopped worrying and learned to love the bomb.

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Sure looks like one.

I don't understand the purpose of it?
 
nem said:
Sure looks like one.

I don't understand the purpose of it?
Click to expand...
Yes it's a modified Chiriro IO board to supply 5V and 3.3V power to Model2/3 board and process the sound at the same time. RGBS signal and digital IO are passed through JAMMA edge.
 
I kinda had a cool idea. To test the readings I plugged one of my arcade sticks into my Daytona 2 board and realized the 3 shifter switches are used by the Player 1 controls on the fighting games. Down is 3rd gear, up is 4th gear, Down+Right is 1st, and Up+Right is 2nd. However, and unfortunately, if you leave it off it is in the Neutral position. Wonder if I could simply remove the spring from a (preferably damaged) arcade stick and use it as the shifter on D2/Scudrace/Rally1&2. It would save a lot of extra work, and I see the value of using an arcade stick to change views and gears, especially for sequential games like Indy, Harley, ECA, LeMans, and so on.
 
Does anyone know what size fan is used for a model 2? Mine didnt come with one and want to put one on. As well where is the best location to mount it external to the pcb cage?
 
you wont hurt yourself on 90mm, i was thinking more about not filling the case with dust
 
As I just got my Virtua Cop 2 ROM Board from Connecticut last week, it will not boot on the Model 2A system by itself. It displays what looks like garbled graphics, like the one shown in someone's eBay photo below. Is it true that the game will not boot without the Type-I Gun I/O Board, likewise with House of the Dead? You need that board to use the gun properly anywho. Many of these ROM Boards are listed as "NOT WORKING" on eBay but if they require the I/O to properly I boot, I bet they do.
s-l1600.jpg

My goal is to play it and HotD with a soft-modded Master System Light Phaser, a DB9 breakout soldered to a 74SL04 chip like someone has attempted with an Operation Wolf Taito PCB here:
https://nes4life.wordpress.com/2021...arcade-pcb-with-a-master-system-light-phaser/

I've daisy-chained the 5V from the little chip to pin 5 (5V) and a Dupont connector to go to the gun I/O; same procedure with GND. Also have been told the trigger signal goes directly to the filter board, and the schematic is a bit of a mess on the manual but luckily someone on other forums has pointed out exactly what each connector on the I/O does, so fingers crossed and I will get pictures or a video on YouTube of it functioning if the gun works. ;)
 
Yes it is true you must have the i/o board connected at least power CN1 and comm CN2 for virtua cop 2 or HOTD to boot
without it you ge pretty much what is shown in your picture
 
truxpin said:
Yes it is true you must have the i/o board connected at least power CN1 and comm CN2 for virtua cop 2 or HOTD to boot
without it you ge pretty much what is shown in your picture
Click to expand...
I just received my Gun I/O Board yesterday, and I can attest to what you just said. The ROM Board seems to be working perfectly fine, however with my Light Phaser, I couldn't get it to calibrate properly. It displayed a frozen shot on the gun tracking menu on my Nanao 8060S monitor, and the image from the gun board's monitor cable is pretty washed out. It is a bit filthy so it will need to be cleaned. I'm thinking maybe the light sensor doesn't have to be inverted, but as I tried hooking it up without the little resistor, the game would lock up whenever I pull the trigger. Then again the ground on my DB9 breakout board was loose so I'll have to fiddle with it some more later.
 
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