biggestsonicfan
Professional
my mistake: I see it's a power only cable. I'll wait for *hint hint nudge nudge* @biggestsonicfan full harness solution, which should be coming out ANY DAY NOW
Sega Model 2/3 A/B/C - CRX and how I stopped worrying and learned to love the bomb.
- Thread starter Psyko-M1
- Start date
PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
Welp, I have a House of the Dead 1 PCB arriving today. Purchased it as "non-working" but since I already have a working Model 2C I hope I can get something going and can temporarily swap the ROM board out. I've got two gun IO boards but one is not working well. The other one I shall test with Virtua Cop 2 later today when I get home from vacation.
So I saw someone sell what looks like a conversion HOTD Model 2C with a modified filter board that has a new 6-pin RS422 connector. Look at the picture attached...
Are those resistors that somebody soldered below the RS422 connector on the left there? If so, which ones would I need to solder on the filter board?
As I'm having a hard time finding the dedicated filter board, I want to desolder the holes from my Waverunner filter board and install that connector, but I know I need those blue jumper bits as well.
So I saw someone sell what looks like a conversion HOTD Model 2C with a modified filter board that has a new 6-pin RS422 connector. Look at the picture attached...
Are those resistors that somebody soldered below the RS422 connector on the left there? If so, which ones would I need to solder on the filter board?
As I'm having a hard time finding the dedicated filter board, I want to desolder the holes from my Waverunner filter board and install that connector, but I know I need those blue jumper bits as well.
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I'm like 99% sure it's just a 0 ohm resistor in there; it's just a jumper basically. Otherwise the pins on the exterior don't connect through to the rest of the filter board.
PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
So all I'd theoretically need is a 6-pin 2.54mm header to solder there and a 0hm resistors on the front of the filter board, correct? Thanks for that info.
those are filters - the end pins are linked and it has a capacitor to the center pin.
sometimes it's actually a low value resistance like 10 or 100ohms between the outer pins
just use bits of wire - make sure they dont touch the center pad
sometimes it's actually a low value resistance like 10 or 100ohms between the outer pins
just use bits of wire - make sure they dont touch the center pad
PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
So I spent some time today soldering a 6-pin male 2.54mm connector to my Model 2B filter board, as well as the jumpers underneath (I used 0ohm resistors and small bits of wire), and after doing quite some cleaning to the ROM Board and popping it in the other Model 2C I have, my House of the Dead boots perfectly! Unfortunately, I am having an issue getting the image to display right on my Nanao FlexScan 8060S monitor.
All of my Model 3s display a clean image through the Nanao monitor if some of you have seen previously in my posts, but on both my Model 2A (Sega Rally) and this, I'm getting lots of bleeding and warped images, however it displays fine on my Asus LCD. Perhaps I should check my voltages? I quickly wired the other power connector (I originally used only 1), and it made no difference.
This board was absolutely disgusting when I picked it up! The cage was infested with what looked like critter poop (which I fortunately don't have). One entire layer of vias on the ROM Board was completely browned, so I took it outside and used some cheap Blow Off Electronics Cleaner to rinse it all. No traces seemed to be damaged after cleaning it either.
I wonder what's so different about Model 2A/B/C and Model 3 when it comes to connecting video via the 5-pin RGB connector... I know they use different power and M3 uses the VGA port with different output levels.
All of my Model 3s display a clean image through the Nanao monitor if some of you have seen previously in my posts, but on both my Model 2A (Sega Rally) and this, I'm getting lots of bleeding and warped images, however it displays fine on my Asus LCD. Perhaps I should check my voltages? I quickly wired the other power connector (I originally used only 1), and it made no difference.
This board was absolutely disgusting when I picked it up! The cage was infested with what looked like critter poop (which I fortunately don't have). One entire layer of vias on the ROM Board was completely browned, so I took it outside and used some cheap Blow Off Electronics Cleaner to rinse it all. No traces seemed to be damaged after cleaning it either.
I wonder what's so different about Model 2A/B/C and Model 3 when it comes to connecting video via the 5-pin RGB connector... I know they use different power and M3 uses the VGA port with different output levels.
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PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
biggestsonicfan
Professional
AUGH! I wish I had seen this so much earlier!
I actually contacted a HOTD owner about the filter caps on the HOTD board and they are 68pF caps:
I actually ordered a bunch of JST-NH headers and caps and planned to sell the RS422 connector as kits for very cheap!
Please let me know if you're interested, because I'd only want what's best for a fellow Model2 user!
Mrhide
Legendary
... you know what would be cool? I know that you do!
biggestsonicfan
Professional
I'm getting there! I promise!... you know what would be cool? I know that you do!
PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
As I was rewiring my Happ 45 light gun to a DB15 cable to appropriately accomodate the home environment, I noticed the dot in the Gun Mark Check screen of House of the Dead wasn't moving properly even though the gun calibrated fine. I panicked and gave up a first, but as I was shooting the screen at specific angles to enter the Gun Mark screen again, I found the gun was actually aiming at the spot I shot at!
That said, I wired up a switch for the START button, and as I got into the game, I was happily blowing creatures' heads away in the Curien Mansion. Though because this 14" Nanao has black bars and doesn't fill the screen, it was hard to go for precise headshots in the first level and I might need a larger screen. So I re-ordered the Iiyama 17" to see what the hype is all about.
The game plays perfectly fine otherwise and the sound is super fantastic! Really enjoying this. Next on my find list is The Lost World: Jurassic Park (M3 Step 1.5), which apparently supports the type 1 gun IO board with code from an old prototype built. Also Virtua Cop 2, which I have the ROM Board of but would rather find the full PCB stack because I still love playing Sega Rally on the 2A.
(Apologies for blurry picture; it was from a video I sent to a fellow HotD owner).
That said, I wired up a switch for the START button, and as I got into the game, I was happily blowing creatures' heads away in the Curien Mansion. Though because this 14" Nanao has black bars and doesn't fill the screen, it was hard to go for precise headshots in the first level and I might need a larger screen. So I re-ordered the Iiyama 17" to see what the hype is all about.
The game plays perfectly fine otherwise and the sound is super fantastic! Really enjoying this. Next on my find list is The Lost World: Jurassic Park (M3 Step 1.5), which apparently supports the type 1 gun IO board with code from an old prototype built. Also Virtua Cop 2, which I have the ROM Board of but would rather find the full PCB stack because I still love playing Sega Rally on the 2A.
(Apologies for blurry picture; it was from a video I sent to a fellow HotD owner).
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PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
So I have another racing wheel that I successfully modified to use on my Model 3 driving boards -- Thrustmaster NASCAR Charger 2. The paddle shifters actually have pots in them, and I've adjusted both those paddles to accomodate what Scud Race and Daytona 2 want for pedals (around 30-D0H), given you can't calibrate the steering manually without the drive board. However, the steering potentiometer snaps into the bracket one way, and on this particular wheel it doesn't stay fully centered to 80H, but around 7DH, which gives a more sensitive left and less sensitive right turn. I found the same kind of pot here which is apparently 100k ohms, found in a replacement listing for one of the TM "Hotas" flight sticks:
I wonder if it's safe to just wire in another potentiometer, secure it with heat shrink tubing, then wire it in tandem with the other pot, and dial that pot slightly so the handle in-game stays completely centered. I've got a stash of pots from other broken wheels I trashed, so maybe that can come in handy.
I wonder if it's safe to just wire in another potentiometer, secure it with heat shrink tubing, then wire it in tandem with the other pot, and dial that pot slightly so the handle in-game stays completely centered. I've got a stash of pots from other broken wheels I trashed, so maybe that can come in handy.
Hi,
Please, can someone (if they own this weapon) advise on the dimensions of this weapon. Sega model 2 Gunblade
I will try to make a replica.
I already have the rotary mechanism ready, I used 5K potentiometers for the vertical and horizontal position.
If someone could provide the dimensions, I would be grateful
Well thank you
Please, can someone (if they own this weapon) advise on the dimensions of this weapon. Sega model 2 Gunblade
I will try to make a replica.
I already have the rotary mechanism ready, I used 5K potentiometers for the vertical and horizontal position.
If someone could provide the dimensions, I would be grateful
Well thank you
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Thanks nem, great.
The measurement on the right is the width. I already know that it is 9 cm,thanks
I have the original Sega Gunblade game (only complete stack) and I like the shape of this weapon, many games use it, for example Aliens the gun, etc.
Maybe later I will use Arduino leonardo on PC
I will make it by sanding wood and I want to use (strong shaking) like the original. probably a magnetic coil..
Thank you very much for your help,
In the picture, I have already made a rotating system.
I made a gun2naomi using digital potentiometers for the lost world jurassic park game
The measurement on the right is the width. I already know that it is 9 cm,thanks
I have the original Sega Gunblade game (only complete stack) and I like the shape of this weapon, many games use it, for example Aliens the gun, etc.
Maybe later I will use Arduino leonardo on PC
I will make it by sanding wood and I want to use (strong shaking) like the original. probably a magnetic coil..
Thank you very much for your help,
In the picture, I have already made a rotating system.
I made a gun2naomi using digital potentiometers for the lost world jurassic park game
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Hi,
Of course, it is best to own the original weapon.
I will eventually buy it, but they are quite expensive..
I made some progress, it almost resembles the original.
With the Game Model 2 (GunBlade), it works great.
There is a strong magnetic coil inside, so the effects are good.
I used the old Xinput (Gamepad) to connect to the PC and it works well with games such as (Teknoparrot)Transformer human, Alien Exterminator, etc.
Thanks for the gun dimensions
Of course, it is best to own the original weapon.
I will eventually buy it, but they are quite expensive..
I made some progress, it almost resembles the original.
With the Game Model 2 (GunBlade), it works great.
There is a strong magnetic coil inside, so the effects are good.
I used the old Xinput (Gamepad) to connect to the PC and it works well with games such as (Teknoparrot)Transformer human, Alien Exterminator, etc.
Thanks for the gun dimensions
Attachments
PaulWoodpross3r
Enthusiast
To add a little flair to my racing game enjoyment, I decided to upgrade my Scud Race ROM board to Plus. A very worthy upgrade with the Super Beginner course and cool FMV intro, and for someone new to eprom programming, it's a great start.
You will need to change ICs 13, 14, 15, 16 and 24 with 27C322 and burn them. Be careful if you download the MAME ROM set; the mpr-20101.23 is actually IC24 on the PCB. I accidentally placed this in the wrong slot with the original chip still in the other and the sound effects were all garbage.
Additionally you will also need to burn ICs 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 with 27C4002 (27C4096 equivalent). So 5 27C322 and 5 27C4002 is all you need.
The chips all burned fine on a GQ-4X4 programmer, at max speed, with the 42-pin socket adapter, with jumper J1 on the socket adapter jumped to pins 2 and 3 from factory-default pin 1
You will need to change ICs 13, 14, 15, 16 and 24 with 27C322 and burn them. Be careful if you download the MAME ROM set; the mpr-20101.23 is actually IC24 on the PCB. I accidentally placed this in the wrong slot with the original chip still in the other and the sound effects were all garbage.
Additionally you will also need to burn ICs 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 with 27C4002 (27C4096 equivalent). So 5 27C322 and 5 27C4002 is all you need.
The chips all burned fine on a GQ-4X4 programmer, at max speed, with the 42-pin socket adapter, with jumper J1 on the socket adapter jumped to pins 2 and 3 from factory-default pin 1
