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biggestsonicfan

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I expressed an idea a while ago about creating a fingerboard to convert Sega Model1 controls to 2/3 and vice-versa and in order to test out the adapters that I've been making on real hardware and not a supergun, I've needed to make this for my Virtua Fighter 1 cabinet's harness.

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The design isn't finalized but this is the core of it. The main connector will be a JST-NH 25 pin horizontal connector with 25 2.54mm holes to add a header to connect whatever you want to the I/O, even if you go from a Model1 to a Model1, Model2 to a Model2, or a Model3 to a Model3.

The pads will allow you to solder wire to them and using the fingerboard labels as a guide, you can put that wire into the corresponding slot of a 25 JST-NH connector.

Granted, the use case for one of these is extremely limited as most people seem to convert their cabs to a JAMMA harness anyway, but I figure I'd pitch it here if anyone was interested. I am doing a small run of 5 on the cheapest blue PCB JLPCB has to offer because this doesn't need to be fancy schmancy. I already have the horizontal JST headers too. I don't know what to charge for these yet until the PCBs ship, but I am trying to make other PCBs I need to save on shipping.
 
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I can't get behind my virtua fighter 1 right now to show it connected but I've put dead or alive and Fighting Viper in that model 1 with that simple row of "C pins" :
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I don't remember if I soldered the connectors in there or not!
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anyway, am I understanding that your boards are similar and that you need both? meaning you plug in the model 1 harness on the model 1 board , the model 2 or 3 filter board to your board and you link/remap them together with the pads?
 
anyway, am I understanding that your boards are similar and that you need both? meaning you plug in the model 1 harness on the model 1 board , the model 2 or 3 filter board to your board and you link/remap them together with the pads?
Well, what this can do is it will allow you to use the Model1 harness on a Model2/3 board. I don't actually own a Model1, but yes, it acts as an in-between that remaps the inputs.

A sane person would just remove the pins and remap them on the connector :P I am clearly not sane.

While I don't need both, theoretically you could solder two 25 JST-NH connector ends onto this board and be able to use Model1 on a Model2/3 harness and Model2/3 on a Model1 harness without swapping! So this might be ideal for you if you want to swap out your C pin fix ;)
 
it would probably be better than that c pin fix ( hell anything would!) because there are no standards between these games : the punch for one can be the kick for the other so hey, consider me interested !
 
The PCBs have been sent off for fabrication! Made some minor text adjustments as well as redoing the JST-NH connector footprint to match that used on the filterboards more accurately. I also have a little spot on the PCB where you can mark off if it's a conversion from Model1 to Model2 or Model2 to Model1 so you don't get confused! The board can be repurposed for either and you can use rubbing alcohol to remove the mark!
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I've just placed an order for the wire I want to use on these, but I might also offer these as a kit if you want to do it yourself with the included pcb, header, shroud, and shroud pins.

Still mulling about how much I want to charge, but it won't be too expensive.
 
Wire arrived today, but to be perfectly honest, I don't have the time and energy to rewire my cab (replace cannibalized JAMMA harness with saved replacement original harness from ebay), so to test the boards, I will build one Model2 to Model1 adapter and use that to test the Model1 to Model2 adapter, as I currently have my board setup for use with joypads and a standard computer monitor.
 
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