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Sega New Versus City Restoration

So work on this has been slow going. I have been wracking my brain over how to go about cleaning/painting this cabinet. Sadly no one offers the artwork for this cabinet. There are two websites I know of, https://arcadeartrepro.com/ and https://gateninety.com/ which the latter is where I got my Aero City artwork from. Anyone know how to directly message these two cats? I tried emails but nothing...

In my experience, retrobright works but doesn't last and will re-yellow. I got a quote from a local body shop which said anywhere from $400-600 for the cabinet to be painted but they wouldn't know until they saw it and that was only for 1 paint color. Two paint colors would be more.

In my experiments to try to de-yellow the cabinet without having to pay a fortune in retrobright hydrogen peroxide, I noticed one sticker I could start to peel back!

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As you can see, it is vastly different in color. Almost looks like it was pissed on for a couple decades.

I am willing to scan and / or send this sticker to anyone willing to reproduce it. I will take off any and all stickers for reproduction. Just need someone skilled in photoshop and sticker production to get the job done.

Once I find a way to reproduce the stickers I will start tear down and painting/bondo/etc work. Don't wanna dismantle until then.

There are some scratches that I think I need to work on as well. Will novus work?

In other news I got 3 locks and two keys for this puppy, still need 5 more locks to complete the required amount.
 
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Kavas said:
I got a quote from a local body shop which said anywhere from $400-600 for the cabinet to be painted but they wouldn't know until they saw it and that was only for 1 paint color. Two paint colors would be more.
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Not really sure how two different colors would cost more. All auto body paint like home paint needs to be mixed. I can understand charging more based on number of panels painted because that would equate to more paint being used but why charge based on how many colors you want?
 
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joeks said:
Hi Kavas,

Sorry! Must have missed your message. But I would love to work on reproducing this side art for you and the community. If you can send me scans or maybe the actual side art, we are good to go. You can contact me here or through my website www.arcadeartrepro.com
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Sir, you are a godsent. I can send you the art directly if you can reproduce it! I will remove the rest of the art. I hope it is made available for the arcade community for many years to come!

I have other art work that I need reproducing if you know a good way to remove stickers?

PM Sent.
 
kikaso said:
Not really sure how two different colors would cost more. All auto body paint like home paint needs to be mixed. I can understand charging more based on number of panels painted because that would equate to more paint being used but why charge based on how many colors you want?
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Not sure, never really dealt with auto body shop. He said more than 1 color costs more.
 
Kavas said:
Not sure, never really dealt with auto body shop. He said more than 1 color costs more.
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If you go with a repaint, just make sure they use a flex additive for any of the plastic panels. The metal panels don’t need it since they don’t flex or not as much as plastic does.

The restoration looks fantastic.
 
kikaso said:
If you go with a repaint, just make sure they use a flex additive for any of the plastic panels. The metal panels don’t need it since they don’t flex or not as much as plastic does.

The restoration looks fantastic.
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Sounds like you're in the know. The place I went to is a Maaco auto body. If you have a suggestion on particular paints or brands I can be better equipped to shop around. Anyone else with fantastic knowledge on painting plastic cabinets?

One worry I had is if the paint around the palm of your hand on the cp would wear the paint down over time. Is this a valid concern?
 
$400-600 seems a bit high for a Maaco job if I’m being honest especially when you consider that they paint whole cars for about that much. Automotive paint from any reputable brand (PPG, etc.) should hold up really well even on high use areas near the CP.

It could help getting an accurate estimate if you have the parts you want painted with you when you visit. Most auto shops will estimate on the high side if they don’t have the car (or part) in front of them because shoppers tend to keep shops to that number.
 
Kavas said:
Maaco auto body
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Maaco is garbage Tier auto-body. They do absolutely 0 prep work and basically you're paying for a guy with a spray booth and an hour of training. It's ok if you don't care about the quality of the results and you can do 100% of the prep work yourself but for $400-$600 you'd be seriously better off renting some equipment and doing it yourself.
 
twistedsymphony said:
Maaco is garbage Tier auto-body. They do absolutely 0 prep work and basically you're paying for a guy with a spray booth and an hour of training. It's ok if you don't care about the quality of the results and you can do 100% of the prep work yourself but for $400-$600 you'd be seriously better off renting some equipment and doing it yourself.
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You hit the nail on the head. I haven't even used them yet but from just watching their workers in the garage, they looked like they were picked up off the street that day. Not seasoned or trained.

I only went to that shop due to a friend recommendation. He said they work on stuff other than cars. I might need to just disassemble my cab, throw it in the back of my truck, and drive around to the less mainstream guys too see what quotes I can get.

Any other tips appreciated.
 
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Kavas said:
Any other tips appreciated.
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for the best finish the metal painted parts should be powder coated, for auto body painters what you want to find is which shops are car modders and restorers using, those are typically the guys who care about their work. Avoid "collision repair" places since they're designed to just be cheap and fast to get people back on the road with a job that's "acceptable" but not great. and generally don't want to work with people unless their insurance company is writing a blank check.

Don't get me wrong there are collision repair shops that do top tier work, and there are independent shops that do garbage work but it's more often than not the inverse that's true.

Consider the clientèle, car show guys and hot-rodders are typically get paint jobs because they want something BETTER than the original factory paint, or because their car is less than perfect, they're going to check for and see even minor blemishes as big problems, and they're often paying out of their own pocket. Collision repair shop clients just want their car back ASAP so they can get to work and don't really give a shit about minor blemishes as long the car looks about how it did before the crash from 10ft away once you're done.

It doesn't surprise me that most collision repair shops wouldn't want to paint a cab because they wouldn't know how to estimate the cost, the paint code is not going to be in any of their systems, they probably don't want to have to get creative with hanging the parts or learn how to prep non-automotive grade plastic... it would throw-off their whole assembly line approach to getting jobs out the door fast and paid for by insurance.

An independent shop however will likely have a guy who is interested in painting something different, will work with you on the price and make sure they're paying attention to the details.
 
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Gave the cabinets some love today. Took off all the stickers and have them on non-stick cookie sheet paper. Trying to flatten them some then package them for reproduction by @joeks . I did my very best to get these off.

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There are literally stickers on the bottom of the cabinet that say "Fork". Meaning Fork lift :S Heavy beast!
Much of the stickers came off easy but the 1P is a bit warped and a tail of the 1p2p stickers came off.

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Already have these stickers wrapped up. Only one I couldn't save is the "Certificate" sticker. It disintegrated when I did anything to it sadly.
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The move strip lists are likely optional but will send them anyways.

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The move strip insert was filled with dried and sticky coke/coffee gunk. Had to pry the glass off with a butter knife lol. So glad I am tearing this down.
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The last piece before I mail off the stickers is the banner next to the digital score 7 segment display. I am trying to figure out how to safely get to it. Proving to be some work. Taking pictures of every screw! Cracked plastic everywhere. Bondo work needed. Already have a stripped screw.

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Anyone know if these orange pieces are supposed to be more clear? Wondering if I should have them polished like they do to headlights.
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Will be shipping out the stickers soon. Then onto bondo and painting. Hoping the plastic pieces come off easy and I don't have to dismantle any more of the metal pieces.
 
Woah look at those bulbs =O if I didn't know any better id say it's a hackjob'd woody lol. Any plans to change what kind of light fixtures are in there, or are you just keeping the fluorescents?

Thanks for keeping up with this thread though- the couple blast and astro restore threads here were lifesavers when I did mine, and I'm sure I'll be using this thread in the future all the same someday :thumbsup:
 
GeeDee said:
Woah look at those bulbs =O if I didn't know any better id say it's a hackjob'd woody lol. Any plans to change what kind of light fixtures are in there, or are you just keeping the fluorescents?

Thanks for keeping up with this thread though- the couple blast and astro restore threads here were lifesavers when I did mine, and I'm sure I'll be using this thread in the future all the same someday :thumbsup:
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There is a long florescent bulb I took out for the front facing marquee and then the bulbs you see on the side for the orange lights. I honestly haven't thought about changing the lights in this just yet but it is worth considering while I have it open. The front facing bulb might be worth changing to a LED since it's always on. The bulbs on the side on the other hand only turn on when I first turn on the cabinet, then stay off. I haven't really played one of the few games that use the orange lights. The cabinet came with extra bulbs though. Unless someone can recommend a good alternative I might leave those alone. What are your guys thoughts?



So what I've been doing is hitting up some arcade monitor chassis repair guys in the business regarding a vertical collapse WG 2000 monitor I have that I can't get running. Likely going to send it in. I asked about these nanao monitors and a recap. One notable guy said these monitors are best left alone if working. If he does a recap or changes any parts it might upset the rest of the components. If the fly back goes then a aftermarket one could cause sizing issues. There are no schematics apparently. This is why not many techs bother with these monitors.

I've never worked on or had a cabinet till now that uses a nanao but after his warning I'm starting to see what all the fuss is about. In my first post you can see the picture does look a tad dull and hues are off. What do you all think? Send it in for a bare minimum recap? Or just try adjusting the picture to the best of my abilities and leave well enough alone. I've already started disassembling the cabinet so now is the time to decide regarding a chassis recap.
 
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the WG U2000 is IMO one of the worst arcade monitors ever made, a lot of the problems are trace sizes on the chassis an neck board are undersized and burn out and, even when working the color and geometry is terrible. honestly I'd recommend just finding a better chassis.

As for the Nano chassis, The thing is a lot of Japanese arcades sold in America were manufactured here because it was cheaper to do that then ship them, so they also tended to get built with American parts such as WG monitors. So a lot of the American techs didn't get much exposure to or experience with Japanese brand monitors... so they stick to what they know which are the WG and other brands that typically were in American distributed cabs.

There's dozen of guides online to tune your Nanao monitor, and doing a cap kit isn't going to cause problems with the other components unless you mess something up.
I think perhaps the real problem is that there are many sub-variations of many of the Nanao line so for instance an "MS-9" has 4 or 5 different variants each with a unique cap list. So if you buy a kit meant for an MS-9A and you have an MS-9SU and just shove the wrong caps on there then yeah, you're going to have problems.

To my knowledge there are only 3 shops in the USA who specialize in Nano Monitors (Sharp Image, PNL, and Speedy's) and every other shop either avoids them or acts like they're some super complicated voodoo monitors.
 
Thanks for putting this thread up! I have one to restore when I get my other projects out of the way so I’ll be watching this closely! Hopefully you guys can get some art to the market I would be a buyer!
 
twistedsymphony said:
the WG U2000 is IMO one of the worst arcade monitors ever made, a lot of the problems are trace sizes on the chassis an neck board are undersized and burn out and, even when working the color and geometry is terrible. honestly I'd recommend just finding a better chassis.

As for the Nano chassis, The thing is a lot of Japanese arcades sold in America were manufactured here because it was cheaper to do that then ship them, so they also tended to get built with American parts such as WG monitors. So a lot of the American techs didn't get much exposure to or experience with Japanese brand monitors... so they stick to what they know which are the WG and other brands that typically were in American distributed cabs.

There's dozen of guides online to tune your Nanao monitor, and doing a cap kit isn't going to cause problems with the other components unless you mess something up.
I think perhaps the real problem is that there are many sub-variations of many of the Nanao line so for instance an "MS-9" has 4 or 5 different variants each with a unique cap list. So if you buy a kit meant for an MS-9A and you have an MS-9SU and just shove the wrong caps on there then yeah, you're going to have problems.

To my knowledge there are only 3 shops in the USA who specialize in Nano Monitors (Sharp Image, PNL, and Speedy's) and every other shop either avoids them or acts like they're some super complicated voodoo monitors.
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The u2000 is for my die hard arcade cabinet. Besides a recap, I did the suggested vertical and power section upgrades. Replaced tda1771, resistors known to be iffy, etc. Still in collapse. The sharp Image fella seems like a swell dude and should get me up and running. I agree that this monitor chassis is terrible. Even the way it's wired had me scratching my head. But I digress....

The sharp Image shop agreed to do my nanao if I really want it. I think a recap should be safe. But I refer to the experts like them and you on the matter. I'm leaning towards a cap replacement since I have this thing opened. Unless there's strong opinion otherwise.
 
If it looks dull and the hues are off, then it's down to adjustments. Could be the tubes too, but likely both just need some color calibration with the cutoff and drive pots on the chassis.

I'm not saying you shouldn't get them recapped. I'm just saying the two are not really related.
 
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