- Thread starter Kavas
- Start date
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
I want to see an update on this as well.
Trying to work out monitor issues here https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/nanao-ms2933-parts.21334/ before putting back together.
Those look fantastic!
I'll have some big posts soon. Lots going on behind scenes. Didn't wanna clog up the thread with small updates. Waiting on a few things to come together here soon before I break out the news.
I'll have some big posts soon. Lots going on behind scenes. Didn't wanna clog up the thread with small updates. Waiting on a few things to come together here soon before I break out the news.
The purpose of me sending them was to paint my cab and to have them reproduced for me and everyone else to have. You can check out Joeks website for the sale.
I have not added them to my website www.arcadeartrepro.com but will do soon. Thank you for your interest
Yes think so. Maybe some color correcting to do first
Cool. Please keep us posted when you add it to your site for purchase. Definitely interested in buying a set.
Wow it's been some time. Let's update this thread as a lot has been done since the tear down.
Last we left off I was tearing off the side arts and getting reproductions. I have since completely torn down, cleaned, and applied the new arts.
I discovered one of my speakers wasn't working. Luckily it was just a connection that came undone.
All the way down to the bare frame. Who wants to go skate boarding? Check out that coin rail from player 2 side to the bucket!
Brought it outside and used a combination of simple green and krud cutter. Just look at that nicotine drip down! Hell, the cabinet looks 10x better just with a cleaning! Still, it was in need of more to get 30+ years of smoke out of the plastic.
My good pal @Anselmo was a great big help along the way with lots of pointers. He painted his white pieces but buffed his grey pieces. I tried the same thing but still wasn't happy with the results.
Could be that im using a sander instead of a orbital buffer but still, something more was needed.
There was also this rust caked onto the Control panel piece. Any attempt to remove it damaged the piece.
I did also wash the monitors and chassis.
Last we left off I was tearing off the side arts and getting reproductions. I have since completely torn down, cleaned, and applied the new arts.
I discovered one of my speakers wasn't working. Luckily it was just a connection that came undone.
All the way down to the bare frame. Who wants to go skate boarding?
Check out that coin rail from player 2 side to the bucket! Brought it outside and used a combination of simple green and krud cutter. Just look at that nicotine drip down! Hell, the cabinet looks 10x better just with a cleaning! Still, it was in need of more to get 30+ years of smoke out of the plastic.
My good pal @Anselmo was a great big help along the way with lots of pointers. He painted his white pieces but buffed his grey pieces. I tried the same thing but still wasn't happy with the results.
Could be that im using a sander instead of a orbital buffer but still, something more was needed.
There was also this rust caked onto the Control panel piece. Any attempt to remove it damaged the piece.
I did also wash the monitors and chassis.
I tried for a month to find a painter worth a damn to paint the cabinet. I eventually found a guy down the street from me who does amazing work but is always backed up. It took him 3 months to get my pieces back to me painted. I had to go and get the pieces color matched at a paint store. I went with Valspar paint. I wish I could tell you the color and the book but they just went by page numbers and color numbers, not color codes. The color matching came out excellent! More on this soon.
In the meantime I started a thread here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/nanao-ms2933-parts.21334/
I had a few components that looked iffy. I also experienced the black goop leaking all over my chassis. I recapped the monitors and cleaned up all the goop. I spent some time finding the components I need from the above thread.
The leakage comes from this grey component. Something to do with high voltage. The goop is non conductive and took a lot of krud kutter to get off the boards. I don't think this part is manufactured anymore?
Under the flyback.
Part in question.
All cleaned up! and recapped! I discovered that my monitors must have been serviced at some point and one of them even replaced! I didn't have two 2930 like I thought I did, but instead one of them turned out to be a 2933!!! I was wondering why the capacitors were off in a couple places. I triple checked my work before it clicked.
My speakers were gnarly as expected. You can see the cone disintegrated. Luckily I found on amazon drop in replacements!! I lucked out! 4 brand new speakers!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGUQD92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Old on left new on right.
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We had a couple hurricanes here in Florida in the past couple years. While they mainly hit the West coast (I am on the East coast) we still got some rain bands and wind. I didn't suffer any serious damage but a couple shingles did lift. They lifted in such a way that I had the smallest of leaks drip into my ceiling and right onto a very specific spot. RIGHT on top of the bucket where I was keeping all the metal brackets for the cabinet! I started to see a little of that rust formation and sadly had to spend money sand blasting and powder coating much of the pieces.
BEFORE
AFTER
Powder coating does add some volume to the pieces. The hinges have a rod that goes through the holes you see on the far right. The rod would no longer go through those holes so I had to take a dremel and shave back some of the coating plus some more to allow for the expanded rod to go through. The hinges for the control panel were also coated shut and had to be carefully oiled and cut/pried back and forth so that they could start moving again.
After months of waiting my painter finally started to get pieces to me. Take a look!
Some panels from alberto came in the same day!
He even did the coin bucket for me!
The topper needed new fluorescent bulbs and starters. I bought the typical FG-1E starters that I have seen in other candy cabs. I should at some point just replace it all with led strips but thats for another day.
I also replaced the fans in the PSU and topper with Noctua fans. For the topper I bought this AC to DC converter plug and wired it in. The old fans were server fans that were EXTREMELY loud. You guys know the deal. I could hear those suckers about 2 rooms over!
Old fan.
![20230213_173658[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230213_173658-1-jpg.116911/ "20230213_173658[1].jpg")
Since the new noctua fans are not as thick as the server fan, the old mounting solution came up short. I tried these 120 to 140mm adapters but they still came short of the screw posts on the metal topper pieces of the cabinet. However with some ingenuity I locked them down by turning the mounting hardware backwards and using them as clamps. They are now super secure.
![20230216_164158[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230216_164158-1-jpg.116912/ "20230216_164158[1].jpg")
![20230216_165837[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230216_165837-1-jpg.116913/ "20230216_165837[1].jpg")
![20230225_201425[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230225_201425-1-jpg.116910/ "20230225_201425[1].jpg")
Little janky but works great! They are super quiet now.
I bought a cap kit off arcadepartsandrepair for the NVS 4000 01 variant PSU but I knew I had the 02 variant. After cleaning up the PSU and inspecting the caps, I determined they look great actually and won't bother replacing them for the time being. The cap kit for the 01 was different anyhow and I was gonna have to put together my own BOM.
Don't have any pictures of the PSU fan installed but it's a huge difference. I have to hold my hand over these fans now to make sure they are even working.
For the PSU I was gonna snip the leads on the noctua fan and solder them into the 12v line on this board but everyones favorite son @Raph_friend hit me up and recommended I use the 2 prong terminal on the left side of this picture. Turns out it was a vacant 12v spot and I had just the right connector adapter to turn my noctua 4 pin into a 2 pin! Worked out lovely!
The overall versus cabinet is now super quiet and a joy to play on!
![20230219_195205[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230219_195205-1-jpg.116914/ "20230219_195205[1].jpg")
BEFORE
AFTER
Powder coating does add some volume to the pieces. The hinges have a rod that goes through the holes you see on the far right. The rod would no longer go through those holes so I had to take a dremel and shave back some of the coating plus some more to allow for the expanded rod to go through. The hinges for the control panel were also coated shut and had to be carefully oiled and cut/pried back and forth so that they could start moving again.
After months of waiting my painter finally started to get pieces to me. Take a look!
Some panels from alberto came in the same day!
He even did the coin bucket for me!
The topper needed new fluorescent bulbs and starters. I bought the typical FG-1E starters that I have seen in other candy cabs. I should at some point just replace it all with led strips but thats for another day.
I also replaced the fans in the PSU and topper with Noctua fans. For the topper I bought this AC to DC converter plug and wired it in. The old fans were server fans that were EXTREMELY loud. You guys know the deal. I could hear those suckers about 2 rooms over!
Old fan.
Since the new noctua fans are not as thick as the server fan, the old mounting solution came up short. I tried these 120 to 140mm adapters but they still came short of the screw posts on the metal topper pieces of the cabinet. However with some ingenuity I locked them down by turning the mounting hardware backwards and using them as clamps. They are now super secure.
Little janky but works great! They are super quiet now.
I bought a cap kit off arcadepartsandrepair for the NVS 4000 01 variant PSU but I knew I had the 02 variant. After cleaning up the PSU and inspecting the caps, I determined they look great actually and won't bother replacing them for the time being. The cap kit for the 01 was different anyhow and I was gonna have to put together my own BOM.
Don't have any pictures of the PSU fan installed but it's a huge difference. I have to hold my hand over these fans now to make sure they are even working.
For the PSU I was gonna snip the leads on the noctua fan and solder them into the 12v line on this board but everyones favorite son @Raph_friend hit me up and recommended I use the 2 prong terminal on the left side of this picture. Turns out it was a vacant 12v spot and I had just the right connector adapter to turn my noctua 4 pin into a 2 pin! Worked out lovely!
The overall versus cabinet is now super quiet and a joy to play on!
So where do we stand now?
-Cabinet is painted
-Metal parts are sandblasted and powder coated
-Monitors have been cleaned and recapped. Suspicious parts have been replaced
-Speakers replaced
-PSU and topper fans replaced with silent Noctua fans
-Bulbs and starters replaced
-New side arts and front stickers
-New control panels for various games (Voot, Rotary, Smash TV, etc)
-All locks installed
-All new joysticks and buttons with silencers
Excuse the mess as I am doing a expansion on my house and everything in my Garage is now all over my home
![20230226_114107[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230226_114107-1-jpg.116915/ "20230226_114107[1].jpg")
![20230226_114133[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230226_114133-1-jpg.116916/ "20230226_114133[1].jpg")
![20230226_114122[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230226_114122-1-jpg.116917/ "20230226_114122[1].jpg")
![20230226_114154[1].jpg](https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/20230226_114154-1-jpg.116918/ "20230226_114154[1].jpg")
So what is left to do?
Well sadly the 2P monitor is dim. It is playable but for sure something is off. I have two current ideas to trouble shoot it. One is to swap the RGBS connectors on the 1P and 2P monitors and see if there is any difference made. I would have to make a longer loom to do that now that everything is buttoned up. I also need to source a rejuvenator and see if this monitor is just tired. I must point out that the 2P monitor is not the one where I changed out the components. It was a strait up recap.
I spent 3 hours on P2 side monitor with convergence strips and got it pretty sharp. But no matter how I adjusted the flyback or the remote board it wouldn't get any brighter. 1P side monitor is the 2933 and is very bright but I ran out of strips and got it only looking about 80%. I will have to revisit both these monitors in the future.
2933 looking bright!
2930 looking dim but sharp
2P BEFORE
2P AFTER
I will put an order in for more strips in the near future. This is a very time consuming venture. Shout outs to my pal @BuddyC who walked me through dialing in the monitor.
So to summarize I still need help with:
-2P monitor is dim. I did smell a faint burning when I turned it on AFTER the recap and assembly but it still works. Overlooking the chassis I detected nothing wrong. I will source a rejuvenator (any help on where to look?) and maybe send it out if I can't brighten it.
-1p monitor needs more attention to convergence
-Going to get another alberto versus panel for 2P side, the one I have is original but faded.
-LED strips on the topper as opposed to bulbs
-Cabinet is painted
-Metal parts are sandblasted and powder coated
-Monitors have been cleaned and recapped. Suspicious parts have been replaced
-Speakers replaced
-PSU and topper fans replaced with silent Noctua fans
-Bulbs and starters replaced
-New side arts and front stickers
-New control panels for various games (Voot, Rotary, Smash TV, etc)
-All locks installed
-All new joysticks and buttons with silencers
Excuse the mess as I am doing a expansion on my house and everything in my Garage is now all over my home
So what is left to do?
Well sadly the 2P monitor is dim. It is playable but for sure something is off. I have two current ideas to trouble shoot it. One is to swap the RGBS connectors on the 1P and 2P monitors and see if there is any difference made. I would have to make a longer loom to do that now that everything is buttoned up. I also need to source a rejuvenator and see if this monitor is just tired. I must point out that the 2P monitor is not the one where I changed out the components. It was a strait up recap.
I spent 3 hours on P2 side monitor with convergence strips and got it pretty sharp. But no matter how I adjusted the flyback or the remote board it wouldn't get any brighter. 1P side monitor is the 2933 and is very bright but I ran out of strips and got it only looking about 80%. I will have to revisit both these monitors in the future.
2933 looking bright!
2930 looking dim but sharp
2P BEFORE
2P AFTER
I will put an order in for more strips in the near future. This is a very time consuming venture. Shout outs to my pal @BuddyC who walked me through dialing in the monitor.
So to summarize I still need help with:
-2P monitor is dim. I did smell a faint burning when I turned it on AFTER the recap and assembly but it still works. Overlooking the chassis I detected nothing wrong. I will source a rejuvenator (any help on where to look?) and maybe send it out if I can't brighten it.
-1p monitor needs more attention to convergence
-Going to get another alberto versus panel for 2P side, the one I have is original but faded.
-LED strips on the topper as opposed to bulbs
Raph_friend
Grand Master
That's lot of dedication man, looks awesome. Hope you can fix P2 monitor soon or even replace it.
