jcmorrisii
Professional
Greetings everyone! Many years ago I had some Sega ST-V conversion carts (that I have long since sold off), and it got me thinking about how this could be done. I documented them with high res photos back in 2015, but like a dumbass, I had them hosted on photobucket and now they are gone. You can see the thread --> HERE and the thumbnails are still present. Other than that thread and a few "how to spot a boot" type of posts, I haven't been able to find any information on the subject. I noticed there is quite an extensive thread on PGM conversions outlining the known processes and was hoping to do the same for STV carts.
This is pretty straight forward, but NOT a quick easy conversion, some carts have 8 chips to flash and solder in place, each with 44 pins. This involves using a donor cart that matches the desired games PCB (SEGA 837-11124 is a common one that I'm using in this example). Removal of the factory Mask ROMS (located IC1-12), then replacing with a series of Macronix MX29L3211MC-10G chips flashed with the bins from the desired title.These can be programmed on the common GQ4x with the help of the ADP-019 Adapter for PSOP44. These chips are very finicky to write with the GQ4x, and very rarely verify 100%. I do not recommend programming these on the GQ4x!!!!!!
-MX29L3211MC-10G Datasheet is ---> HERE
These chips are 3.3V, unlike the 5v that the STV supplies. It looks like most conversions use a series of diodes and a resistor to bring the 5v down to 3.3v. While this may work, I prefer to use a dedicated regulator circuit. Pin 1 (WE) and pin 23 (VCC) are lifted, and the new 3.3v line tied to those pins.
I have also noticed differences in a bank of 0R resistors (located R1-R10) on different carts. Specifically, the 0R resistor at R5 is sometimes located on R6. These are used in conjunction with the EEPROM to the left of them, but is not necessary to change if no EEPROM is used on the game you are converting to.
Here is a test cart I wired up based on my findings;
-------Steps-------
-Remove Securty Screws using custom Gamebit head
-Resistor( jumper) at location R5 moved to R6
-Install voltage regulator on PC1 (5v left pad, Ground right pad)
-Original mask roms removed
-New game Flash chips soldered into their respective slot
-Pin 1 and 23 lifted and tied to 3.3V supplied with a regulator
-Clean up flux and place PCB back into case.
This is pretty straight forward, but NOT a quick easy conversion, some carts have 8 chips to flash and solder in place, each with 44 pins. This involves using a donor cart that matches the desired games PCB (SEGA 837-11124 is a common one that I'm using in this example). Removal of the factory Mask ROMS (located IC1-12), then replacing with a series of Macronix MX29L3211MC-10G chips flashed with the bins from the desired title.
-MX29L3211MC-10G Datasheet is ---> HERE
These chips are 3.3V, unlike the 5v that the STV supplies. It looks like most conversions use a series of diodes and a resistor to bring the 5v down to 3.3v. While this may work, I prefer to use a dedicated regulator circuit. Pin 1 (WE) and pin 23 (VCC) are lifted, and the new 3.3v line tied to those pins.
I have also noticed differences in a bank of 0R resistors (located R1-R10) on different carts. Specifically, the 0R resistor at R5 is sometimes located on R6. These are used in conjunction with the EEPROM to the left of them, but is not necessary to change if no EEPROM is used on the game you are converting to.
Here is a test cart I wired up based on my findings;
-------Steps-------
-Remove Securty Screws using custom Gamebit head
-Resistor( jumper) at location R5 moved to R6
-Install voltage regulator on PC1 (5v left pad, Ground right pad)
-Original mask roms removed
-New game Flash chips soldered into their respective slot
-Pin 1 and 23 lifted and tied to 3.3V supplied with a regulator
-Clean up flux and place PCB back into case.
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