- Thread starter BladeZX
- Start date
I did a bit of work on the polarity of the ribbon cable on these before I sent them out
on the S18 multi end there is CN5(8 pins) and CN6 (4 pins) these are standard JST spacing 2.54mm with a gap between them. So essentially a 14 pin header with a gap where pin 5 and pin 6 would normally be
on the S18 selector there is an 8 pin header and a 4 pin header
Polarity on the S18 selector end with a shrouded (keyed) 14 pin header. in this one I've removed the unused pins
So on the selector end the cable can only go in one way
But on the multi end we need a different solution. CN5 and CN6 headers look like they are SMD and I'm pretty sure that no shrouded (keyed) solution exists for SMD JST headers
I was looking at these to bung up the holes at position 5 and 6 in the 14 pin ribbon cable and give it polarity. But I have a vague sense of unease that they might not be quite the right solution for this application.
https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/harwin-inc/M20-003/3906336
Has anyone else looked into this? thoughts/ideas/solutions?
on the S18 multi end there is CN5(8 pins) and CN6 (4 pins) these are standard JST spacing 2.54mm with a gap between them. So essentially a 14 pin header with a gap where pin 5 and pin 6 would normally be
on the S18 selector there is an 8 pin header and a 4 pin header
Polarity on the S18 selector end with a shrouded (keyed) 14 pin header. in this one I've removed the unused pins
So on the selector end the cable can only go in one way
But on the multi end we need a different solution. CN5 and CN6 headers look like they are SMD and I'm pretty sure that no shrouded (keyed) solution exists for SMD JST headers
I was looking at these to bung up the holes at position 5 and 6 in the 14 pin ribbon cable and give it polarity. But I have a vague sense of unease that they might not be quite the right solution for this application.
https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/harwin-inc/M20-003/3906336
Has anyone else looked into this? thoughts/ideas/solutions?
Thanks for the feedback @djsheep! Of course I have no S18 multi to test with - might need some code debugging.
Im no Arduino dev expert, but I'm reasonably handy with an oscilloscope/ logic tester. with the source it should be pretty easy to check that what should be sent it actually being sent - I think there are only 4 signal pins on the S18.
Im no Arduino dev expert, but I'm reasonably handy with an oscilloscope/ logic tester. with the source it should be pretty easy to check that what should be sent it actually being sent - I think there are only 4 signal pins on the S18.
PASTBLASTER
Grand Master
The two I have built behave exactly like this. I'm hoping Moose's works for me when it arrives.Hey @hatmoose - My S18 selector came. Packed amazing as usual and really nice build quality.
Tried it, but unfortunately it's not working.
What threw me off originally was that it needed a seperate USB power source from. So I tried two different known working USB -> power adapters with it with no luck. Also tried a portable power brick with no luck.
The screen powers on, but when it's connected to the Multi, it doesn't function as intended. Reset button doesn't work, nor does selecting a game, attract, etc.
Images show up on screen ok (can scroll through games, etc.), but either hangs or performs no function on the actual multi when engaged.
Ribbon cable is in correct orientation, but have tried plugging in opposite to make sure it's right.
Any ideas @BladeZX - could you please check if the linked code is functional on your end? Very thankful to @hatmoose for building these and giving them out for free and you for designing them.
Blio Seri
Enthusiast
Regarding the need for an external power source, could it be a limitation in the current the multi can provide on the 3.3V (3V?) rail?
@Mitsurugi-w what is the rating of the power regulator? And what's the worst case scenario consumption of the kit?
@Mitsurugi-w what is the rating of the power regulator? And what's the worst case scenario consumption of the kit?
