Do you think a 10 uF, 25?v would work instead at this spot? I don’t have one available.These are the values - you just have to get the right footprint:
C135 is marked with "C106" so 10 uF, 16v.
L1 is marked with "470" so 47 uH
Thx bro.Yep - you can use a higher voltage cap, although it might be physically larger - just check the placement.
I am an idiot and have never understood how to order properly sized capacitors from Digikey. I tried to order these replacement parts but they were waaaaaaay too small. Can you guys give some advice on which size to get please, & thank you.
I am a little confused. When you only list the uH rating what voltage should I get? Or is this another type we're talking about?These are the values - you just have to get the right footprint:
C135 is marked with "C106" so 10 uF, 16v.
L1 is marked with "470" so 47 uH
Thank you so much bro, I had to call Digikey and get some help with my order. Ordered the parts twice but they came so dam small.As I understand it - inductors (the L denoter) only have one value of measurement - Henries, or in the case of these small marts, microHenries.
Matt
If you are looking for more mobos -> https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...-10-off-if-you-buy-8-items.35380/#post-478802Oh by the way here is a second board I bought from Yaton with same dam issue.
Seems to be a common fault point.Oh by the way here is a second board I bought from Yaton with same dam issue.
I did reorder both of the failed parts today.Seems to be a common fault point.
Did you end up finally getting the right parts from Digikey? If so - post them here!
Thank you for the heads up brother.If you are looking for more mobos -> https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...-10-off-if-you-buy-8-items.35380/#post-478802
No problemThank you for the heads up brother.
