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Super Monaco GP Airdrive

Just waiting for a delivery, as soon as it's arrived back into the garage (-1 outside at the moment) to trace which 12v circuit is causing the issue. Looking at the mess in the coin mech my money is on that!! Think I'll just shrink wrap each cable from the machine so a coin mech can be added later if need be. Assuming the issue is in there!
 
Well, tomorrow I want to get the two halves bolted back together so I can test the air drive! The connectors on the filter board need cleaning & tightening up, then it will be recap the monitor and hopefully PLAY! Then it will be back to the original board to carry on TRYING! This place has been a fantastic help!!!
 
If was never going to he easy was it?! Airdrive is not good :( The only thing the seat does is bank right or turn right (in test mode). What's weird is it does this without pressing the start button. I can see the alphanumeric display changing depending on what test is selected. I'll need to check the manual on how this all works.
 
Hi, I've been busy with Airdrive in the last few months because of my SMGP Deluxe replica.
The first thing you can do is test whether the driveboard is getting the right signals.
You use the Airdrive Test menu for this.
I had quite a problem because there was a defect on the gameboard and so I made a table with useful info for testing.
Go to the test menu and check whether the individual menu items match the digital display on the driveboard.
Signal 5 corresponds to the start button, Hi=pressed, Low=released.

20221218_195911.jpg
 
@RedFighter . OK, it's not happy! First of all I cleaned off all of the connectors pin by pin on the main game board & filter board (I was getting video and control issues, wiggling the connectors would "fix" it, all OK now). I'm testing with the rear cabinet now unplugged. On boot up is displays F1, when I press the start button this changes to LL, if I then go back into the test mode it's flasing "Airdrive trouble"! When scolling through each test the LED display is not changing now, it deffo was before! I'm also testing with the compressor switched off, not sure if that could cause problems? The ROM socket on the driver board is not in great shape so I'm going to swap that out now just in case......
 
Ohh,yes..
I also had massive problems getting both boards to work.
I couldn't find any information about the driveboard and had to measure everything and find out for myself.

You seem to have a communication problem, because I found out the following:
The Drivboard communicates with the Gameboard in both directions, if there are interruptions or conflicts,
then the Driveboard goes offline after a few minutes, or the Airdrive test shows the message Airdrive Trouble..

Oxidized sockets are :cursing: Replace it.
I hope the eprom is not defective. Measure the connection cables between the gameboard and driveboard again.

If none of that helps, I'll show you where you can test the signals with the logic tester on the gameboard.

in the meantime I wish you good luck ^^
 
...to forget.

a test with the compressor switched off is not a problem.
My replica is still missing the entire pneumatic assembly (Airdrive).
nevertheless the driveboard works without problems
 
OK, ROM socket replaced, I reconnected the rear cabinet, AirDrive trouble only appears with the compressor OFF, I'm guessing there is logic that after a set amount of time if the system isn't pressurized it shuts down? With the compressor ON I get these results : -

screen test number | result | with start button pressed
1 | 00 | 20
2 | 01 | 21
3 | 02 | 22
4 | 03 | 23
5 | 04 | 24
6 | 05 | 25
7 | 06 | 26
8 | 07 | 27
9 | 10 | 30
10 | 11 | 31

I've also found item 8 & 4 move the seat without pressing the start button. I can hear solenoid noise when pressing the start button for item 9 & 10 but no others....
 
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...to forget.

a test with the compressor switched off is not a problem.
My replica is still missing the entire pneumatic assembly (Airdrive).
nevertheless the driveboard works without problems
That's interesting as with mine it seems to display LL after a while with the compressor off and then report AirDrive trouble.
 
OK, I have good continuity from the connector on the small board back to the connector arrowed on the main PCB for all pins.

20221219_152324.jpg


On the driver board I replaced the ROM socket, the NEC chips arrowed had some rusted pins, socketed and replaced.

20221219_115309.jpg
 
If none of that helps, I'll show you where you can test the signals with the logic tester on the gameboard.

in the meantime I wish you good luck ^^
@RedFighter , if you can let me know that info I'll check it out. Do you have a dump of the EPROM? I can find nothing online about this board! It looks like the Sony chip is the same as the main game board? So apart from the EPROM I can replace everything if need be. I wonder what the DIP switch is for? (ALL OFF) I wonder if my game is using a different program version hence the difference on the LED display? Although this board drives all of the air solenoids? So the fault must be here or upstream with the main game board.
 
@RedFighter. I found your info while searching the Internet for help/info on this board! I hope you don't mind me posting it here?

AirDrive Test 3.JPG

IC.JPG



So I probed those pins on IC163 & IC164. My probe gave results as per your table above where 1 = L & 0 = H. So the game board is following what you found but the driver LED display is not displaying the same hex values that yours is! Pressing the start button while probing made no difference on the game board pins. The driver board LED display does switch values though. I'm stuck as to where to go now so will await your expert knowledge on this, thanks!
 
Hey sega_man, You've already found the information about the driveboard ;)
No problem if you post my help/info here, that's why I put it all on the net to help other crazy arcade people with their hobby...:D

It is interesting that completely different hex displays appear with your driveboard.
I can't yet report 100% if everything fits with my board structure, but what I've gotten to work so far looks like it should work.

Don't worry, the dip switches on my driveboard are all set to OFF.

In my table you can see the 8 signals that run from the gameboard to the driveboard, labeled 1-8 (in red). You can also see the same signals on the gameboard, on the 2 ICs.
But according to my tables and pictures you have already found that yourself.
In any case, on my board, signal 5 corresponds to the start button (in the Airdrive Test menu) I don't think there were different program versions for controlling the driveboard, but I don't want to say that with certainty.
I have the EPROM file here because my driveboard comes from a Royal Ascot machine and I had to reprogram and repair it for SMGP first.

Here I have another picture (photomontage) of the signals from the driveboard.

DB-Opto.JPG



Check with the logic tester whether the signals arrive at this optocoupler identically from the gameboard.
And always measure all 8 signals with each test, not that there is an interruption or wrong connection.

Basically these two SONY Logic Chips communicate with each other.
Your task is to check whether all 8 signals from the pins of the Sony chip on the gameboard run correctly to the Sony chip on the driveboard.
With all the connection lines and optocouplers / drivers in between, you have to make sure that all signals match here.:)
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check the driver board end tomorrow. Pressing the start button didn't change the logic state of any of those 8 pins. Do you have a pin out to check the Sony chips too? To clarify you say the start button is line 5? In your diagram that is always 1 so I'm assuming the table is with the start button pressed? I certainly didn't get that result :( BUT the screen CRT diagram DOES toggle which suggests the game board is seeing line 5 OK? Thanks again your help has been amazing 👏
 
I haven't taken any pictures of the signals from the Sony chip at the moment.

That strikes me as very strange.
Somewhere on the gameboard a signal must change when you press the start button, otherwise the driveboard would not notice it.

The HEX display has two digits and can display the numbers and letters 0-9, A-F, which corresponds to a 4-bit value from 0-15

According to my research, signals 1-4 (4 bit) refer to the left HEX display and signals 5-8 (another 4 bit) to the right hex display.
If you look at the individual bits in the table, you will understand how it is shown on the HEX display.

The start button corresponds to signal 5, i.e. the 1st bit from the right HEX display.
That's why the right display in the Airdrive Test Menu always changes between 0 and 1 when you press the Start button.

Check everything again carefully, take your time :)
 
I'm in the middle of work right now, here's a picture of the current setup:

new selfmade SSR Board with LED and 24VDC output for the Airvalves
4.jpg


make cabel an connectors
3.jpg



Circuit boards, power supplies, audio amplifiers mounted on a wooden panel

102.jpg



many cables...:D

SMGP Replica.JPG



...to be continued
 
Nice work. I'll go over it all again tomorrow. Like you say somewhere on the game board must toggle between high & low otherwise the LED display on the driver board wouldn't change nor would the airdrive test graphic. I'm hoping this is the issue rather than solenoids etc. I'll post results tomorrow, thanks again for you help :) The Sony chip on the driver board is the same as the game board I think? Is that chip still available?
 
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