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Taito vewlix monitor yellowing

RayBullty

RayBullty

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Hi guys
I just bought a vewlix capcom model, with yellowing monitor issues. I search about this in google but I have not found anything clear. I don’t know if this is a common issue, if can be fixed…etc

Can any one throw some light in this problem and share how to fix it?
Thanks so much

104CFE89-17E4-42BB-A055-434435865A2C.jpeg
 
You could try removing the anti-glare film applied to the glass (only on the outside face).
kHOFFmq.jpg


Mine had been cleaned with some nasty/harsh solvent (acetone?) and it was hazed as a result.
Sure you'll be missing the coating after, but I don't find the glare/reflection to be an issue personally (plus it looks much sharper/better).

Bro you gotta get a proper control panel on that cab.
That's from a Vewlix-L (grey/black) not a Capcom (brushed metal/red).

Also that card reader bezel... Blue is for Diamond White, you need a black one.
Balltop/stick and 30mm buttons are AOK, but the 24mm start button is suppose to be white.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
jassin000 said:
You could try removing the anti-glare film applied to the glass (only on the outside face).


Mine had been cleaned with some nasty/harsh solvent (acetone?) and it was hazed as a result.
Sure you'll be missing the coating after, but I don't find the glare/reflection to be an issue personally (plus it looks much sharper/better).

Bro you gotta get a proper control panel on that cab.
That's from a Vewlix-L (grey/black) not a Capcom (brushed metal/red).

Also that card reader bezel... Blue is for Diamond White, you need a black one.
Balltop/stick and 30mm buttons are AOK, but the 24mm start button is suppose to be white.
Click to expand...
Hello again.
So you don't think it's a hardware failure of the monitor? I thought it would be some component problem.
Regarding the panel, the truth is that I did not realize it when I bought it, so now it is one more thing to add to the list. I don’t know were I will find original one.
The color of the card reader, maybe I just leave it like that, I don't think it's worth spending money on that detail 🙂
 
It could be the film on the glass as jassin mentioned, it could also be the failing CFL backlight. old LCDs with CFL backlight tend to shift yellow as they age. Personally, I would just put a new display in there and call it a day. Trying to mess with the original panels is a pain in the butt.
 
mattsoft said:
It could be the film on the glass as jassin mentioned, it could also be the failing CFL backlight. old LCDs with CFL backlight tend to shift yellow as they age. Personally, I would just put a new display in there and call it a day. Trying to mess with the original panels is a pain in the butt.
Click to expand...
Its a expensive deal? Where i can find new LCD?
 
mattsoft said:
There is a guy up here (@Hadouken Arcade ) who makes a bracket that allows many modern monitors to fit the Vewlix. More info on the bracket on which monitors here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/universal-monitor-bracket-for-vewlix.9064/ .
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info
I will try first to clean all, an then maybe i will think about replacement and this bracket.

I have one offtopic question.
When i bought the vewlix, the model was FC. I dont know what it means. Its a F with C dress? or exactly what is FC? Maybe the specs? I found info about the F and info about the C, but not about the FC

300px-Taito_Vewlix.jpg
 
Having owned five Fs, I bet it's the diffusing sheet that sits on top of the fluorescent lights inside the LCD panel. These sheets will turn yellow over time. Unless you have a new sheet, there's no way to fix this.

IMO throw the original monitor out and install a modern LCD in. I'm sure the Hadouken bracket is awesome, but if you're in Europe, it's also very costly. I mounted a LG 32MP58HQ inside an F monitor enclosure with some plastic spacers and M5 (IIRC?) bolts. Looks and works great.
 
nem said:
Having owned five Fs, I bet it's the diffusing sheet that sits on top of the fluorescent lights inside the LCD panel. These sheets will turn yellow over time. Unless you have a new sheet, there's no way to fix this.

IMO throw the original monitor out and install a modern LCD in. I'm sure the Hadouken bracket is awesome, but if you're in Europe, it's also very costly. I mounted a LG 32MP58HQ inside an F monitor enclosure with some plastic spacers and M5 (IIRC?) bolts. Looks and works great.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for this info.
Do you have a pic about this piece? maybe i can find any thing, that fits like the original one. In the case that i cant, i just made a quick search on google, and here in spain i cant find any LG 32MP58HQ. All websites incluide Amazon, are out of stock. Maybe newer version? Can you help me with this?
Another question i have, and maybe you can tell me more about. The vewlix it´s on the way to my home, and it´s on the original 110v. What you did in yours to convert the 110? Airlink step down? transformer? :?:
Thanks
 
RayBullty said:
In the case that i cant, i just made a quick search on google, and here in spain i cant find any LG 32MP58HQ. All websites incluide Amazon, are out of stock. Maybe newer version?
Click to expand...

It's a few years old at this point. There was nothing special about it, it was just cheap. Just grab whatever LG 31.5" computer monitor you can find locally. IMO the less features the better.

RayBullty said:
What you did in yours to convert the 110?
Click to expand...

I replaced the two power supplies inside. There's a 12V PSU that powers the IO, sound amp and marquee light, and a 24V PSU that powers the monitor. Mean Well LPS-75-12 is a drop in replacement for the former, and LPP-150-24 can be used to replace the latter. If I remember correctly the DC output connector is slightly different on the LPP. It's the same connector series, but I can't remember if there's more positions on the connector or it's a different pin out? It's very easy to fix though. The 24V PSU is there strictly for the monitor, so if you replace it, you can just toss the PSU altogether.

There's two caveats with the above solution.

1) if you have Wei-Ya PSU inside, there's no direct replacement for it. I removed mine as I had no use for them, so not an issue for me. Your cab might not even come with one.
2) the instruction space light is 100V. I just disconnected it. Again, not an issue for me as I think it is distracting.
 
nem said:
It's a few years old at this point. There was nothing special about it, it was just cheap. Just grab whatever LG 31.5" computer monitor you can find locally. IMO the less features the better.
Click to expand...
Ok, i will search and share what i find

nem said:
I replaced the two power supplies inside. There's a 12V PSU that powers the IO, sound amp and marquee light, and a 24V PSU that powers the monitor. Mean Well LPS-75-12 is a drop in replacement for the former, and LPP-150-24 can be used to replace the latter. If I remember correctly the DC output connector is slightly different on the LPP. It's the same connector series, but I can't remember if there's more positions on the connector or it's a different pin out? It's very easy to fix though. The 24V PSU is there strictly for the monitor, so if you replace it, you can just toss the PSU altogether.

There's two caveats with the above solution.

1) if you have Wei-Ya PSU inside, there's no direct replacement for it. I removed mine as I had no use for them, so not an issue for me. Your cab might not even come with one.
2) the instruction space light is 100V. I just disconnected it. Again, not an issue for me as I think it is distracting.
Click to expand...



Ok, if i replace the LCD, it will come with it´s own transformer. If i use the RingEdge2, it comes with internal PSU and works also 110 and 220. This 2 things (monitor and RE2) can be conected into a one electrical multi conector and go direct to the wall 220v. Maybe only need to buy one PSU for the IO, sound and marquee.

When the vewlix arrives home, i will check what is insiede and can we find a solution.
 
Just buy a 220v -to- 100v stepdown, problem solved/no further research required. :rolleyes:
This is the one I got (only for USA 120v to JPN 100v), notice the minor modification required to add earth ground.
4PLHXXo.png

640px-Cheater_plug_edited.jpg

PRLuLf6.jpg


  1. Take cover off
  2. Remove screw/nut circled in red
  3. Grind/shave down the left side blade of the ground adapter (so both are the same width)
  4. Insert the screw thru the ground hole and stack washers on the backside until flush
  5. Replace cover
 
Last edited by a moderator:
jassin000 said:
Just buy a 220v -to- 100v stepdown, problem solved/no further research required. :rolleyes:
This is the one I got (only for USA 120v to JPN 100v), notice the minor modification required to add earth ground.
4PLHXXo.png

640px-Cheater_plug_edited.jpg

PRLuLf6.jpg


  1. Take cover off
  2. Remove screw/nut circled in red
  3. Grind/shave down the left side blade of the ground adapter (so both are the same width)
  4. Insert the screw thru the ground hole and stack washers on the backside until flush
  5. Replace cover
Click to expand...
Ok, I will do this.
Thanks a lot.
 
I was searching one 32” vga LG.
What do you think about this one?

Monitor LG 32MN500M-B (32'' - Full HD - IPS)​


71BC5D3A-FD2A-4BA7-A258-F1F416298B3E.png
 
Res is only 1080p, I would highly recommend 1440p (it will allow for 1600x1200 from an OSSC and true 5x 1440p mode from the Retrotink).
 
Late update.
To close this topic, I tell you that in the end I changed the monitor for an LG. The reasons have been several, but the most important is that in the Shipment, they broke it. The machine was sent standing, and it came to me lying down and with some damaged parts. The parts had easy repair, some hot silicone here and there and no one can say they were damaged. The monitor, I sent it to technical service and they told me they needed a new lighting panel.

Being practical, I have preferred to replace it with an LG monitor and finished matter. Replacing the monitor has been pretty easy. At first I was tempted to buy the adapter you recommended, but right now the issue of customs, imports, fees ... almost doubles the price.

I set out to try to make a homemade solution and I was thinking about it a lot. By chance, looking at monitors on amazon, they suggested a wall adapter for LG monitors. Staring at one, which was just what I planned to make... I decided to buy it, since for 12 dollars or 10 euros ... what could I lose?
It's just been Plug and Play. I already have everything installed and working. Then I will update with photos.
 
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