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DARKSOFT The Definitive Guide to Fixing Your CPS2 Multi Kit

Check the jumpers first. Especially since you made some changes, cutting the traces can be extremely difficult so you may have some jumpers that are connected and shouldn't be.
 
Darksoft said:
^THAT^
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Hey so after checking again the key writing wires ive noticed that the splder wasnt good and ive fixed it, after checking again i got key programing on the lcd unit for long time so i tried to power off and on the cps2 and now i get lcd init on the lcd without and display (green screen usually) any ideas? i tried to do the short thing and it wont help
 
Try first games that dont need key writing (the file called KEY has all 0xFF inside). Try that without the cables connected and see if it works. If it does, then connect the cables.
 
i tried it and it doesn't work i still get lcd init on the display i must say that even if i boot without sd card im still getting the same message
 
I think I found my issue. Two of my open jumpers J10 and J12 on my B board are getting continuity though I didn’t solder those. Some of the solder must of leaked and it’s barely in them. A slight clean up and re-solder should do the trick.
 
So, after trying to clean up the jumpers and even burning one of them I somehow fixed the audio. Now I just have to wait for the key writing wires and it’s good to go. Even the multimeter kept saying they weren’t open but apparently what I did fixed it.
 
Regarding Jumpers:
The latest version of the instruction manual says "There is no need to modify the jumper configuration." Is this still true if my jumpers are in a different configuration than what's in the Walsdawg installation video? Or was that statement about not needing to modify based on an assumption that the jumpers would already be in the Walsdawg configuration?

I'm in the process of converting an Alpha 1 board, Rev 4. I just put on the wire from CN5 C13 to (G) PAL 9, and put in a G PAL (it originally had an E) but the Alpha 1's jumpers are not in the same configuration. The board was set up with the following:

1-4
S O O S

5-6
S O

8-13
O S S O S O

14-21
O S O S O S O S

22-29
O S O S O S O S

So basically I'd have to reverse the S/O on each of 10-13, 14-21, and 22-29. Not the end of the world, but a little bit annoying. So given the updated instructions saying there's no need to modify, I wanted to check before proceeding with the soldering/de-soldering to change the jumpers around.

Thanks!
 
Atari FGC said:
"There is no need to modify the jumper configuration." Is this still true if my jumpers are in a different configuration than what's in the Walsdawg installation video?
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This is true. You dont need to touch them anymore.
 
Darksoft said:
Atari FGC said:
"There is no need to modify the jumper configuration." Is this still true if my jumpers are in a different configuration than what's in the Walsdawg installation video?
Click to expand...
This is true. You dont need to touch them anymore.
Click to expand...
Oh great, thanks! Is that only if you're doing the key writing? Or even without it? (I was going to do the key writing install but first, I wanted to check the rest of the install with unencrypted ROMS + dummy key.)
 
I think I need another clarification of the instructions. The Walsdawg video talks about putting a wire from CN5 C13 to PAL3 #9 on a Rev 4 board. I did that, but then in the Darksoft manual, it says to remove any such wire and instead wire from PAL3 #9 to J17 on the Multi. So is the video just outdated? Does any pin need to be pulled up? Or simply attach a wire from PAL3 pin9 to the Multi J17?

I'm using a G PAL, and have installed an Arthrimus QSB, where I had to solder the connector onto CN2 A29-32.
 
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Atari FGC said:
I think I need another clarification of the instructions. The Walsdawg video talks about putting a wire from CN5 C13 to PAL3 #9 on a Rev 4 board. I did that, but then in the Darksoft manual, it says to remove any such wire and instead wire from PAL3 #9 to J17 on the Multi.
Click to expand...
Either one is good. The pin C13 from CN5 is connected to J17 in the multi.
 
Darksoft said:
Atari FGC said:
I think I need another clarification of the instructions. The Walsdawg video talks about putting a wire from CN5 C13 to PAL3 #9 on a Rev 4 board. I did that, but then in the Darksoft manual, it says to remove any such wire and instead wire from PAL3 #9 to J17 on the Multi.
Click to expand...
Either one is good. The pin C13 from CN5 is connected to J17 in the multi.
Click to expand...
Oh, great, thanks! I ended up getting it running with the J17 wire, but it's much cleaner looking going underneath from PAL to CN5, so I redid it that way.
 
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