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Jeez.... not even the decency to use a simple JST connector on one end...

did the seller say it was working for him?
Could be something got knocked loose during shipping.
Try to reseat all boards and check all boards make proper contact.
Also the connection between A and B board is vital, could be a good test to run the board without the case so you can firmly press it down.
 
I have sound issues (beeps all over the time).
So this is the problem that you have, right?

Please check the first post of this thread, specially the part related to sound. Try the Flash VERIFY set, to make sure that your multi works 100%. I would say that either you have a bad contact and have to push the A+B Board a bit better, or the B board and the MultiPCB, or you have a problem with your PAL.
 
Yes, that‘s my problem.
...& also I don‘t understand why Smokemonster‘s last base rom pack (t.e.) doesn‘t work.

The LCD says the flash is done & ok but the monitor of the cabinet switches from black to purple & stays solid in purple.
 
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Check my post again please --> https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...o-fixing-your-cps2-multi-kit.7442/post-272567

So what is the problem? Bad sound or purple screen? Are you using Phoenix Romsets or original ones?
Hello Darksoft,

I read & checked this all before I started writing this post.

I got the complete kit with a 4gig SD-card. But I only want the full set without any hacks so I loaded Smokemonster‘s base pack.

When I flash a game from
Smokemonster, the small LCD says ok but the monitor stays in purple.

When I copy back the pre-installed roms every game boots but has that sound issue.

I also copied these two test files. Both flashes work I think because the LCD says OK but should be anything visible on the monitor too?

I think have not phoenixed roms because it boots up without the Phoenix logo.
 
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Jeez.... not even the decency to use a simple JST connector on one end...

did the seller say it was working for him?
Could be something got knocked loose during shipping.
Try to reseat all boards and check all boards make proper contact.
Also the connection between A and B board is vital, could be a good test to run the board without the case so you can firmly press it down.
Hi PascalP,

tried everything you mentioned but bad sound again.
 
Having gone through a plethora of issues myself a short while ago with a pre-installed multi from eBay (and by looking at the pictures of your board) I am inclined to suggest you should get someone who knows what they're doing to remove that glue, clean the board, and do the soldering again. I have found this "hot glue method to secure solder points" can be quite problematic.

IMHO you should avoid the key writing route on older board revisions unless you absolutely must have the untouched rom sets.

I would personally remove the glue, remove the wires, short the EXC5, and use he decrypted rom set - that could be the solution if you have exhausted all other possibilities (PAL Chips et cetera) which the experts on here have already suggested.
 
Also remember that it doesnt matter which PAL chip you have anymore, BUT you should have a working PAL.
 
I removed the glue, cleaned the board and checked the soldering.

The connections are „fine“. In the end I want to get a connector and wire the cables perfectly to the board but that‘s just for cosmetics. I want to play the untouched roms, so I looked for a champion edition kit.
 
How can I do this?
if you don’t have a programmer, I’d borrow a pal from another cps2 board. If you don’t have that either then ask a friend, or last resort just buy a new one. Maybe someone near you can burn one. Or saveyourgames has extras, or buyicnow can sell one written for you.

did you say it sounds the same wether or not the pal is in socket?
 
if you don’t have a programmer, I’d borrow a pal from another cps2 board. If you don’t have that either then ask a friend, or last resort just buy a new one. Maybe someone near you can burn one. Or saveyourgames has extras, or buyicnow can sell one written for you.

did you say it sounds the same wether or not the pal is in socket?
Yes, sound issues are the same with uninstalled chip.
 
@PLAYRADISE the one that’s a GAL16V8B right? Yeah if it doesn’t do anything different when it’s removed then I’d get another one
Yes, exactly that one! I put it out and startet the system. The sound issue stays the same.

Where can I get the data for burning?

And thank all of you (@Darksoft @ekorz @PascalP @VILLAIN ) for your help, even on a Sunday! 🤜🏻🤛🏻
 

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Check that PAL/GAL, but I have the feeling that the problem is not there. Check the connections between your A and B Board. Try putting them together without the plastic case of the A Board. Also do you know if the A Board was working well before?
 
@Darksoft

I checked all connections. Put all boards off & on again. Nothing changed.

The seller wrote today that it was tested for 24 hours and built/soldered by www.saveyourgames.it !

Isn‘t that the official distributor for Europe?

If it‘s true, does an official distributor do the soldering job like that?!?!?

Where can I find the data to burn a new PAL/GAL chip?
 
@Darksoft

I checked all connections. Put all boards off & on again. Nothing changed.

The seller wrote today that it was tested for 24 hours and built/soldered by www.saveyourgames.it !

Isn‘t that the official distributor for Europe?

If it‘s true, does an official distributor do the soldering job like that?!?!?

Where can I find the data to burn a new PAL/GAL chip?


Please send it back to the seller, we will help him to check and test that Board. I have sent you a PM.
 
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That is a GAL issue. I would say it needs replacing since it's not required to replace with a G PAL on the new version of the multi but that's also not an original CPS2 PAL installed on the board.

However if this was sold as working on eBay I would also recommend filing a claim and returning.
 
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