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Toshiba monitor from Filthy Astro Cab has no picture?

BTW the reason I'm all about fixing the Nanao soon is because I'm going to link the supergun/bare monitor setup and the Astro cab for a bootleg head to head setup. :)
 
grantspain, who's probably the second most knowledgeable person regarding Nanaos, has also said that he has never seen a flyback fail on a Nanao. I believe him and Jomac. Of course I won't say it's in the realm of impossible, and they probably wouldn't either, just that it is extremely unlikely. I had a chassis sometime ago that started clicking when turning up the volts on the flyback. It was just going to shutdown. Can't remember what problem was on the chassis, but after fixing it, it's been running great since.

Also, just because the monitor has the original MS9-29S sticker on it doesn't mean the chassis hasn't been replaced. The fact that KC said it needs a different connector sounds odd. There aren't multiple inputs on a stock MS9-29S. Of course he could just be giving the run around, but just to make sure @Mr. Glendale, can you take a pic of the chassis?
 
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The one that's on the on the PCB, that's correct. However, if it's a 29S (S for Sega), there should be a 15 pin AMP UP connector on the side of the chassis (see input pinout on the MS9 page on AO wiki).
 
The MS9 does 15 and 24 khz, but I don't remember if the MS9-29S is auto switching or if you have to move a jumper. Might want to make sure it's set to 15khz to be safe, I've had that issue with a MS9 chassis before.
 
Please remember that I told you I have no experience with these monitors, lol.

The little neck pcb had exposed pins and it was basically all but hanging off the tube. I shoved it in (carefully) and I have a picture.

The picture is all screwed up, but it looks like stuff that can be fixed with the various knobs, hopefully!
 
Don't worry, you gotta start somewhere. So the neckboard was off the whole time? If so, that probably the easiest fix you'll ever have in this hobby. There are several good guides to getting the best picture you can see out of these monitors. It takes time and patience to get a monitor set up right when you're new to the whole thing.

Keep us updated.
 
Mr. Glendale said:
The little neck pcb had exposed pins and it was basically all but hanging off the tube. I shoved it in (carefully) and I have a picture.
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Sweet. It's always nice when it's the easy shit. If you post some pics of the issues we can hopefully help you solve them if your knob twiddling doesn't produce some immediate relief.
 
If it's just straight up not doing anything, no neck glow, no static, my first guess would be that it's in HV shutdown.

First thing I would do is try plugging the cab straight to the wall.if it's in a surge protector. Also, try it in a different outlet. With those changing nothing (I'd assume it's not a power issue from your outlet), I would then measure the B+. You can pull up several videos and guides on how to measure that, but if this is your first rodeo with monitor repair it is alot. You might be better off having a shop check it out. A full cap kit at this point in a monitors life is always a plus.
 
If you need I can exchange for good recapped ms9 but would be shipping to Canada since that where I live. Seen a few ms9 with blown short hot recently so dead Mon would be easy quick check there.
 
If you are in America, Happ still has new 27" / 29" makvision tri-sync crt monitors. I just bought one while they are on-sale to have as a spare. The image on the one I got was surprisingly pleasing.

At this point in the game most of the used CRT monitors out there are very old. I'm not fond of (or very good) at crt repair so I thought it prudent to take the opportunity to snap up one of the last new ones on the planet.

Have you checked your cable and that the set-up is wired with the right sync type etc? My Supergun is a little picky when it comes to rgb cables.
 
I got through this whole stupid thread and it's still not clear what kind of monitor this is.
If your tube is an A68KJU96X, then it can be a few options:

* Nanao MS8-29, the reliable-but-still-a-turd chassis that came with nearly all Astros
* Nanao MS9-29, the golden chassis that is more than we deserve
* Toshiba D29CR55, similar to the MS9 when working but not the most reliable chassis in the world.

If you have the latter two, the yokes are compatible, save for the the connectors. It sounds like it is one of the Nanao options, and that you got it working. You will probably want to recap it.

As for turning the flyback screen control all the way up: please don't do this again!
 
Hatsune Mike said:
I got through this whole stupid thread and it's still not clear what kind of monitor this is.
If your tube is an A68KJU96X, then it can be a few options:

* Nanao MS8-29, the reliable-but-still-a-turd chassis that came with nearly all Astros
* Nanao MS9-29, the golden chassis that is more than we deserve
* Toshiba D29CR55, similar to the MS9 when working but not the most reliable chassis in the world.

As for turning the flyback screen control all the way up: please don't do this again!
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Funny it was easily determined to be a MS8 if you read the thread.

As far as the MS8 being a turd, you'd have to be more specific considering all the models and variants made. Your general statement is very lacking due to this. Not only are there many MS8 models, there were a ton made overall, used in a bigger variety of cabs for the era. A good majority of them have outlasted their tubes and are perfectly fine. Also being older, many of them have thousands of hours more on them compared to MS9s.

From my experience a MS8-25FBC Dual8 specific series to include its 29 variant is the rarity of Nanao chassis as far as more than we deserve and reliability. On top of MS9 features it went the extra mile with a factory built-in resolution switch on the remote board.

As far as turning the Screen control up, for troubleshooting G2 voltage or checking for shorts across each gun as they are common shared, this is the method used unless you have a rejuvenator to measure each gun. This is a basic CRT troubleshooting step. The suggestion made to turn up the screen was for troubleshooting, not permanent.
 
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brad808 said:
Keep in mind there are ms9's with auto switch between CGA/EGA. Not all are via jumper on chassis.
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Yep, why its hard to go after a whole chassis series when they have so many different models and variants.
There are some weaker chassis' in both the MS8 and MS9 series.
 
There is not a single MS8 produced that centers gain around 0 instead of Vp/2. Changing the gain offsets the bias for a given color channel, and there isn't a unified contrast control.
 
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