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Violator80 said:
Okay, I have soldered a wire from SWD7 to A29 which the V3 instructions say handles the reset function, but my board will not auto reset. I soldered and then re-soldered it to make sure I had a good connection, but no matter what I do the kit will end the flash with garbled graphics on screen and sit there until I power cycle it. Does anyone have any ideas? I have a 93646B-3 board and I am using these instructions:

SWD5 is not being used anymore. Now you have to use for both reset and SETUP2 (it's thesame signal) the pin in SWD7.
IMPORTANT!!! Follow the instructions to connect DATA, CLOCK, SETUP1 and SETUP2 asstated below and corresponding to your version of B Board only:
Pinout for board revisions 93646B-3 and 93646B-4
CN2 interface pins:
DATAArduino #2→ CN2 A32SETUP1Arduino #3→ CN2 A30CLOCKArduino #11→ CN2 A31
SETUP2Arduino #12→ CN2 A29
Click to expand...
Am I missing something here? You quote the instructions for the new keywriting firmware with the 4 wires but yet you only have the old single reset wire connected?
Reference image bottom of first post here New CPS2 Multigame Firmware with Key Writing!!!!!!
 
You can set it up with just the reset wire and not do the key wires if you use the old avalaunch roms.
Thats how I have it on mine atm and it works.
 
tiff_lee said:
when burning with the TL866 make sure you uncheck "lock bit" prior to programming otherwise when you read back the chip contents all bits are set to 1 (copy protection of sorts?) so you can't actually verify the contents.
Click to expand...
Glad I looked that up before I burned the blank one w/ the G. I'm guessing that's what was done on my original PAL, which is why it looked basically inverted (but I didn't really do a very thorough comparison, admittedly).

What is the function of the PAL? I can't seem to search for the right things on the internet to find info on what it does.
 
Blackfish said:
That doesn't look right. Here's a photo of mine. It is working and using the encrypted rom set.

CPS2.jpg
Click to expand...
@Blackfish nice picture. Can I use it for the instructions? It will be specially useful if people want to use a communication PCB on that connector to run SSF2 Tournament or any other game that gets added support for it :)
 
Violator80 said:
Here are a few pictures of my setup. Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
The first picture shows that you connected it in the wrong place. That's why you get no reset and garbled graphics. Luckily nothing got broken.

CN2 is another connector. You have connected it into CN7. In that case, it should go to a different pin that you used. See here:
Would this board be suitable for the multi?
 
sprayk said:
tiff_lee said:
when burning with the TL866 make sure you uncheck "lock bit" prior to programming otherwise when you read back the chip contents all bits are set to 1 (copy protection of sorts?) so you can't actually verify the contents.
Click to expand...
Glad I looked that up before I burned the blank one w/ the G. I'm guessing that's what was done on my original PAL, which is why it looked basically inverted (but I didn't really do a very thorough comparison, admittedly).
What is the function of the PAL? I can't seem to search for the right things on the internet to find info on what it does.
Click to expand...
Perhaps the answers you seek can be found here:

Can someone school me on PALs and GALs?
 
Darksoft said:
@Blackfish nice picture. Can I use it for the instructions? It will be specially useful if people want to use a communication PCB on that connector to run SSF2 Tournament or any other game that gets added support for it
Click to expand...
Yep :thumbsup: go for it, I'm happy to help however I can. My solder work isn't perfect but I've had no trouble from the kit at all.
 
Here is my trouble shooting log for people who may see a similar problem.

I followed the v2 instruction without a wiring for auto reset, and tried the Avalaunch's decrypted rom set. But after flushing a game, and powering off and on, it could not boot, but resulted in blue or purple screen like one of suicided cart. Next, I tried to read the suicidetesterv2 for trying a simple rom. But same result.

Every wiring look correct, PCBs look connected well, and EXC5 pins were shorten, just in case.

Next, I suspect the received PAL. My original rom was X-MEN vs Street Fighter, and it had a PAL F, but bought a darksoft's PAL for simplicity and used it. I assumed the received PAL was type G, and didn't wire anything. But this assumption was wrong, or the chip may be just broken or may not be burned mistakenly. I replaced the received PAL back to the original type F, and wired the pin 7 to J17.

Yes!! It works.
 
I guess those programmed GAL chips were not actually programmed....
 
Darksoft said:
Glad that you got it sorted out. Btw there is version 3.1 of the instructions. Please see here:
Important Info About the CPS2 Multikit
Click to expand...
Thanks! I will definitely setup my kit to follow the v3.1 steps to support encrypted original rom sets.
Thank you for continuous updates to make it greater one.

Mitsurugi-w said:
I guess those programmed GAL chips were not actually programmed....
Click to expand...
Now I read the GAL chip by TL866 with a configuration for the LATTICE GAL16V8D. It returns all-zeros. Blank check does not say it's blink, I guess the check expects all-ones, but anyway, it's very likely that the chip wasn't programmed correctly. I'm not confident in the result because this is the first time to read GAL chips by the TL866.

Anyway, n/p. I will reuse this GAL chip for another purpose some days :)

Everything work fine after solving the problem. Thank you for great works, guys!
 
Yukari Tamura said:
Mitsurugi-w said:
I guess those programmed GAL chips were not actually programmed....
Click to expand...
Now I read the GAL chip by TL866 with a configuration for the LATTICE GAL16V8D. It returns all-zeros. Blank check does not say it's blink, I guess the check expects all-ones, but anyway, it's very likely that the chip wasn't programmed correctly. I'm not confident in the result because this is the first time to read GAL chips by the TL866.
Anyway, n/p. I will reuse this GAL chip for another purpose some days :)

Everything work fine after solving the problem. Thank you for great works, guys!
Click to expand...
Check my post #179. Although your kit is working now and you probably don't want to change anything, I linked a dump for a Pal G jed file which you can program using the TL866.
 
tiff_lee said:
Check my post #179. Although your kit is working now and you probably don't want to change anything, I linked a dump for a Pal G jed file which you can program using the TL866.
Click to expand...
Wow, I should have checked this whole thread first. The answer for me was there!
Now I read #179 and #166. Dump for PAL G is still useful, and the linked site itself looks super interesting. A bunch of repair logs are appealing. Thank you for attractive information!
 
Spent all day trying to get my Multi working with a revision 4 B board.

Checked all pins for continuity, shorted the required caps, wired the Gpal pin 9 to the multi and the 4 wires for keys/reset.
Connector is in the correct orientation. Using 2018 rom pack.

System flashes/writes keys and resets as it should but then shows a red screen, resetting shows a yellow screen.

I received my kit from PA and I'm reading that the supplied GPAL chips were blanks?

Is this the cause of my issues?
 
syntax_X said:
Spent all day trying to get my Multi working with a revision 4 B board.

Checked all pins for continuity, shorted the required caps, wired the Gpal pin 9 to the multi and the 4 wires for keys/reset.
Connector is in the correct orientation. Using 2018 rom pack.

System flashes/writes keys and resets as it should but then shows a red screen, resetting shows a yellow screen.

I received my kit from PA and I'm reading that the supplied GPAL chips were blanks?

Is this the cause of my issues?
Click to expand...
There has been some blank or incorrectly programmed chips yeah, try reflashing with the pal chip removed completely see if that makes a difference
 
Completely removed the Gpal and the wire from pin 9.

Booted the last flashed gamed on power-up with garbled graphics, but its a step forward from the solid screens I was getting.

So crapyy GPAL then hey, worth wiring it as an FPAL maybe?
 
the PAL needs to be reprogrammed. Do you have access to an eprom programmer? If not, maybe one of the members here can help.
 
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