Troubleshooting Tips

[Darksoft]

A) yes remove the wires and B) no no need to format if you only want to do the firm upgrade.

 

[Apocalypse]

A) yes remove the wires and B) no no need to format if you only want to do the firm upgrade.

Ok, I did the firmware update but nothing changed.
It seems to have been updated successfully as the file has disappeared from the card.
Any other idea?
Have you ever seen something similar (stuck on flashing game?).
To me only key writting and reset function don't work, it just never goes to the next step when game is finished flashing.
Is there a way to have at least the reset function? The board will be installed in a cabinet and it's just quite annoying to have to unplug the whole thing (no switch) from the wall with the plug behind the cabinet.
But I still need to find the old rollpack...

 

[Darksoft]

So let me see if I get it right. It flashes the game properly but doesnt reset the system? If you power cycle manually each and every game works? Which romset are you using? original or Team Avalaunchs?

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

The lcd should indicate the flash has finished and then say "now playing...." regardless of i reset is working.

 

[Darksoft]

If you dont even get the "now Playing" then I'd say that one of the flashes is working bad. Maybe got damaged during the transport.

I did a special romset to try the flashes. @Mitsurugi-w can you share it with @Apocalypse

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

I'll try to find the files and upload them. Before that just inspect the main kit pcb for small solder bridges. Especially on the flashes and the ARM.

 

[Darksoft]

IIRC the files were special and had a special extra file called VERIFY.

 

[Apocalypse]

So let me see if I get it right. It flashes the game properly but doesnt reset the system? If you power cycle manually each and every game works? Which romset are you using? original or Team Avalaunchs?

All decrypted games (no key) work but I have to manually power cycle the board when loading bar reaches the end (complete line of asterisks).
None of the encrypted game works because the kit never reaches the key writing step.
I use OG roms but few of them are actually decrypted in the pack (mainly the hacks or unlocked versions).

If you dont even get the "now Playing" then I'd say that one of the flashes is working bad. Maybe got damaged during the transport.

I did a special romset to try the flashes. @Mitsurugi-w can you share it with @Apocalypse

No, I don't get the "now playing"

I'll try to find the files and upload them. Before that just inspect the main kit pcb for small solder bridges. Especially on the flashes and the ARM.

Ok will do tonight.

 

[sprayk]

When I power on my CPS2 w/ multi and after the post-game load reset, I see only a black screen. When selecting a game on the LCD, I see the flashing progress bar followed by a very brief "writing key" type message, finally ending with "now playing", which stays on.

Testing was done on a Blast City with 5.07v +/- 0.03 depending on load measured across CN9 pins 1 and 6.

Pictures of B board here: https://imgur.com/a/XcK4PAN
Pictures of back of multi here: https://imgur.com/a/beUaPbv

I recently received a CPS2 multi from the latest batch from Paradise Arcade along with a "DARKSOFT CPS2 PAL" (more on that in a little). The multi was received with all pins intact and unbent, and was installed without issue. I also tried removing and reinstalling the multi. The board connector board is oriented properly and a random sample of continuity tests confirm it is in correctly.

micro SD card is SanDisk Ultra 32G SD HC Class 10. Freshly formatted with the official SD card formatting tool.

I have properly wired the key flashing connector (I think I quadruple checked, at least). Given that the reset functionality seems to be working, its safe to assume at least SETUP2 is wired correctly. I have tested games with and without encryption keys.

My CPS2 was purchased a few years back as a suicided progear conversion. A and B board region is Asia (grey). The B board is a 93646B-7. I tested the game just before removing ROMs and installing the multi. The jumpers were already in the correct configuration for the multi, but I doublechecked continuity anyways to verify the proper configuration.

Regarding PAL3, I assume it is a G due to what I have read on various posts here. Not wanting to assume, though, I lifted pin 7 and wired to J17 and received a black screen on power-up as well as the post-flash reset. I also tested the boards original PAL3 to no avail.

Unmagnified visual inspection shows that flash chips and ARM chip have good soldering. I'll be verifying with a microscope later tonight. Verified with microscope that all chips are properly soldered.

I really hope its something stupid I've missed. Thanks in advance for your help.

Another unrelated issue is that I am unable to close the top case of the B board even after removing the one post. The LCD connector is like 4-5mm too tall. I verified by removing the lcd and cable and closing the case. I am going to use an ultrasonic knife to cut the little protrusion off the top of the connector so the case can be closed. I was hoping to be able to fit the connector through the play count hole for external mounting, but the connector is just too big to fit.

 

[Apocalypse]

Ok, so I checked the solders on basically everything (had to remove the guides for the long pins to actually see the chips underneath) and didn't found anything weird (no surplus of solder, bridged pins or unsoldered pins). No bent pins in the kit either.

I guess next thing to do is to try the test ROMs (if they can be found).

 

[Apocalypse]

It works!
So actually I wanted it to work so much that I stuck with the Samsung 4GB SD HC Class 4 cards as recommended in the install guide.
I tried 3 of them and none works with the multi.

Out of despair I took my 64GB card from my phone, copied its content to my computer, formatted it and finally copied the games on it and it worked on first try.

Conclusion: there isn't any golden rule regarding the SD card to use.

 

[Darksoft]

Are you sure those cards are original? I never had a problem with those.

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

It works!
So actually I wanted it to work so much that I stuck with the Samsung 4GB SD HC Class 4 cards as recommended in the install guide.
I tried 3 of them and none works with the multi.

Out of despair I took my 64GB card from my phone, copied its content to my computer, formatted it and finally copied the games on it and it worked on first try.

Conclusion: there isn't any golden rule regarding the SD card to use.

Interesting. Maybe you got a few bootleg cards?


@sprayk Where did you get the rom pack from? Can you try another SD card? It seems the kit is working based on it's behavior. Is the interconnect pcb installed the correct way? When you tried the original PAL you still got a black screen only?

 

[Apocalypse]

Are you sure those cards are original? I never had a problem with those.

Yes they are, they came with various Samsung devices (phones, tablets, mp3/mp4 players) bought new in different reputable electronic/appliances shops.

Interesting. Maybe you got a few bootleg cards?

They are genuine, from Samsung. Probably still have few phone boxes they came with.

 

[sprayk]

@sprayk Where did you get the rom pack from? Can you try another SD card? It seems the kit is working based on it's behavior. Is the interconnect pcb installed the correct way? When you tried the original PAL you still got a black screen only?

Rom pack is CPS2 Roll-Up Base Pack 2018-04-26.7z from the mega link.

I'll head to Fry's after work and get some other cards to try. All of my cards are sandisk, save for my only samsung card in a raspi for netbooting naomis that is currently in use in my arcade.

Interconnect PCB is installed the correct way. Text is all facing same direction as the small PCB.

I will try original PAL again when I get home from work to verify same symptoms.

Thanks!

 

[The Spaniard]

Not really troubleshooting, but what does every one do with the old chips pulled off the b board and is there any specific need to store them in a particular way or delicately? The legs seem so thin and easy to bend.

Also just want to double check, do I need to update the firmware for key writing for the latest batch of multis that came out of Save your games?

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

The best way to store them is in eprom tubes. I store many in trays with a foam liner also. Then again over the last 18 years I've acquired so many eproms from CPS2 boards that I have a few shoe boxes full of unsorted roms....

 

[The Spaniard]

I dont have tubes but you did give me the idea of stabbing the eproms into the foam that came with the multi kit.

 

[rtw]

I dont have tubes but you did give me the idea of stabbing the eproms into the foam that came with the multi kit.

if that foam is not anti-static that is not a great idea. A common indicator of anti-static foam is the colour pink.

 

[Apocalypse]

Then again over the last 18 years I've acquired so many eproms from CPS2 boards that I have a few shoe boxes full of unsorted roms....

Wish I knew it before, I've replaced so many faulty mask ROMs with EPROMs on my CPS2s over the years, you might have replacement for them in your box.
Anyway now the boards are gone (sold in prevision of the multi).