TypeX2 Consolization & Re-Drawn Case Labels

[Bluetear]

Finally finished my consolized Taito TypeX2. Clean, quiet, compact.

I can't thank @Niko enough for his awesome multi, without which I would not have been motivated to take on this build. I just donated to his beer fund and hope that you all continue to do the same. He's a testament to this great community.

Not the world’s most complex build by any means, but definitely a fun project. I unfortunately forgot to take a “before” picture of my X2—it was pretty rough, but cleaned up nicely. Here are the basic guidelines I tried to follow:

• Mostly-stock X2 aesthetics
  • Aside from new PCI slot covers (of course) and a few new black case screws
  • New, re-drawn labels (happy to share—link in reply below)
• Ability to quickly convert back to stock, non-consolized X2
  • No internal soldering, etc. (apart from PSU and GPU fan wires)
  • Internal JVS I/O powered via unused USB header on the X2 motherboard
• Ability to easily install in a cab with separate JVS I/O
  • Used simple USB jumper cable to achieve this
  • To install in cab, just remove the jumper cable and plug separate JVS I/O into the X2’s “JAMMA” port as with any non-consolized system
• Quiet
  • New case, CPU, PSU, and GPU fans plus fan-speed controller for GPU fan

INTERNAL JVS I/O WIRING (Sega Rev. B + DB15 ports):

A FEW MORE PHOTOS:

Special thanks again to @Niko along with @nam9, whose awesome TypeX consolization (https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?threads/consolized-taito-type-x.9057/) was a major inspiration and proved to be a very helpful source of information. I also owe thanks to @psykom1 who provided me with some useful guidance in setting up Niko’s multi.

I’ll add separate replies below with a link to my re-drawn case labels and a complete parts list for those interested.

Now off to finish up my similar Ringedge 2 consolization, which I may post about in this thread…because...you know

 

[nam9]

Nice job! Looks great!

 

[Bluetear]

I spent a fair bit of time (read: waaay too long) recreating the Taito TypeX2 case labels. I know that there are some serious photoshop/art wizards here on A-P and I also know that I am NOT one of them. Accordingly, these comparatively simple recreations tested the limited skills I do have.

I looked through hundreds of X2 images to make sure that I captured the stock stickers as closely as possible. While there was some *limited* variation throughout the X2 production run, my recreations match the most-common versions of each of the stickers. Some very early (~pre-205A) and very late (217A) systems employed slightly different stickers. The earliest ones had yellow, TypeX style warning labels and some 217A systems—apparently those converted from earlier versions by Taito to support Nesica/Fast I/O—had different, smaller model number labels often applied on top of existing labels. There are some other very minor distinctions not worth mentioning here. This is all to say that I did the best I could to assess—and account for—the full universe of X2 labels.

Apart from the standard warning and output resolution dip switch labels, you will note that I have created multiple versions to account for the various models (208A, 215A, etc.) and most-common hardware configurations. These should cover 90%+ of the X2 models used with Niko’s multi, but some of you may have systems that are not accounted for in my set. Each of the specific model numbers are accurate for the particular 20XA/21XA version and the hardware configuration labels should match the most common CPU & GPU combinations. If desired, you should also be able to assemble the specific model number of your X2 from the various numbers and letters provided on the sheet. If you have less than 4GB of RAM, you will have to modify the label or upgrade your RAM if you want the stickers to be accurate. I wanted the full set of labels to fit on a single 8.5x11 sheet of vinyl and didn’t want to deal with all the various permutations.

You’ll also note that the set includes two styles of my understated X2 multi label design (orange and gray) including “FABRIQUE PAR NIKO” rather than “FABRIQUE AU JAPON” in addition to purely stock versions.

Full, 600ppi resolution .png file here: https://i.imgur.com/0aZQMt2.png

PRINTING/CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR ACCURATE SIZING:

• 600ppi file dimensions = 4,500 x 6,000 pixels = 7.5 x 10 inches
• Add 0.5 inch top/bottom/side margins before printing on a 8.5 x 11 inch vinyl sheet
  • Can even print from Microsoft Paint (or equivalently-feature-poor application) by just opening the .png file and adding 0.5 inch margins to each side before printing
• Cut immediately inside of the provided red lines to achieve accurate sizing
  • Taito did not consistently cut the labels with rounded and/or straight corners—so cut them however you prefer

USELESS/INTERESTING(?) FACTS:

• Taito mixed multiple different fonts even on the same label
• The warning label does not include consistent character sizing or spacing (look closely for a long time and you’ll start to notice)
• The character spacing on the hardware configuration label is significantly narrowed for stock systems that shipped with the Core2 2.13GHz CPU, which I used as a template for the Core2 2.93GHz CPU labels I made to account for those of you that have installed that processor

I hope some of you find these recreations useful—even if almost totally pointless.

 

[Bluetear]

Here is a complete parts list and general overview of the configuration of my consolized X2.

First, the parts list:

• SSD for Niko’s Multi –
  • Crucial BX500 480GB 2.5" 3D NAND SATA SSD (CT480BX500SSD1)
  • Sabrent 2.5" to 3.5" Hard Drive Mounting Bracket Kit (BK-HDDH)
• Replacement Fans –
  • Case Fan – Noctua NF-P12 Redux-900 120x120x25mm 900RPM, 3-Pin Fan
    • Almost totally silent
    • Use Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 if greater airflow desired
  • CPU Fan – Gelid Solutions Silent 7 Series 70x70x15mm 3-Pin Fan
  • PSU Fans – TWO Sunon 40x40x20mm 12V DC VAPO 5.5CFM, 2-Wire Fans (HA40201V4-1000U-A99)
    • 20mm is shorter than the length of the original PSU fans so may want to cover gap with tape or other material to maintain original airflow pattern
  • GeForce 7900 GS GPU Fan – Delta Electronics 45x9.8mm 12V DC Frameless Fan (EFB0512HHAFAH)
    • Relatively quiet replacement, but slightly too thick to fit stock heatsink-shroud combination (small spacers required)
    • I also added a very small fan-speed controller to achieve near-silent operation
• JVS I/O –
  • Sega JVS I/O Rev. B (838-13683-92 or 838-13683-93)
• Components Related to Internally Housing JVS I/O –
  • 5-pin (or 10-Pin) Female USB Motherboard Header to USB 2.0 Cable
    • Connects to motherboard “USB 6/7” header
    • Remove data wires leaving only ground wire and +5V wire to power JVS I/O board
    • Run wires through standard 750 paracord if clean look desired
  • JST NH 6-Position Female Connector (H6P-SHF-AA6) & JST NH 22-28AWG Crimp Tin Contacts (SHF-001T-0.8BS)
    • For connecting ground and +5V wires from motherboard “USB 6/7” header to CN6 header of Sega JVS I/O Rev. B
  • Dual-DVI-Port PCIe Slot Cover for Conversion to Dual-DB15-Port
    • Can be harvested from old/cheap GPU such as NVIDIA Quadro FX 570 256MB (includes nice “1” & “2” labels) or ATI FireGL Barco MXRT 5200 512MB
    • Requires quick and simple hand modification with metal file to fit DB15 ports in original DVI slots
  • CW Industries DB15 Male-to-Male D-Sub Ribbon Cable Assembly (C7PPS-1506M)
    • Cut ribbon cable in half to create player 1 and player 2 DB15 port/wire assemblies
    • Any male DB15 port/ribbon cable assemblies can be used
  • JST NH 14-Position Female Connector & JST NH 22-28AWG Crimp Tin Contacts (SHF-001T-0.8BS)
    • For connecting player 1 and player 2 button 6 (i.e., heavy kick) wires to CN3 header of Sega JVS I/O Rev. B (I also grabbed +5V for each player from CN3 header)
    • Can alternatively use shorter JST NH connector(s) if unable to source 14-position version
  • 4-40 Hex Jack Screws and Nuts
    • For securing DB15 ports to dual-DB15-port slot cover
  • Blank PCIe Slot Cover
  • 2 NKK Panel-Mount Momentary Switches (FB15ANEP2-FA)
    • For test and service buttons installed in blank PCIe slot cover
  • Right-Angle USB 2.0 B Male to B Female Panel-Mounted Socket Cable
    • For creating USB B passthrough port in blank PCIe slot cover and connecting to USB B port of internal JVS I/O board
  • 6 inch USB 2.0 A Male to Right-Angle B Male Cable
    • Essentially a jumper cable to connect TypeX2 “JAMMA” port to USB B passthrough port installed in blank PCIe slot cover
    • Allows for quickly swapping to external JVS I/O by simply unplugging the short USB jumper cable and plugging in separate JVS I/O board
      • Very useful if you occasionally install your TypeX2 in a cab
      • Also allows for consolized TypeX2 to quickly be converted back to stock (i.e., avoids internal soldering, etc.)
• AC Power Cord –
  • Standard 3-Prong AC Power Cord
• Video-Out Components –
  • DVI Cable or DVI Male to VGA/HDMI Adapter
• Purely Aesthetic Components –
  • Replacement TypeX2 Vinyl Stickers
  • Replacement Black Case Screws (m3-0.5 x 6mm)

The following image shows the general configuration of my consolized X2. This rudimentary info will be useless to many of you that have significant experience/knowledge, but I know that it would have been useful to someone like me before working on this project. Hopefully it’s clear and is of some limited assistance to another who may take on a similar project.

The DB15 ports are wired up consistent with the standard undamned USB and HAS pinouts, which I’ve adopted for all of my sticks. This pinout will also work with any standard Neo Geo pads/sticks.

 

[thegreathopper]

What a brilliant idea and great write up, well done.

 

[Sp33dFr34k]

I ended up selling my TTX2 as my trisync chassis died, while instead I could've done this, stupid me!

Great idea and great write-up, well done!

 

[RandomRetro]

Great write up. Thanks for all the details and including parts list!

 

[werejag]

thanks this is great write up.

 

[Bluetear]

Thanks @nam9, @thegreathopper, @Sp33dFr34k, @RandomRetro, and @werejag! I like to read about details and figured others here would as well. Quite a few parts involved, but it's nice that they're all pretty cheap (aside from the X2/X2 shipping, of course) and nothing overly-complicated once you have the pieces. One thing I forgot to emphasize: right-angled male USB B (for connecting to the Sega I/O) is essential if you want the X2 case to properly close. The fit is perfect, but you'd have a hard time without a right-angled USB B connector.

 

[hursit]

Thanks @nam9, @thegreathopper, @Sp33dFr34k, @RandomRetro, and @werejag! I like to read about details and figured others here would as well. Quite a few parts involved, but it's nice that they're all pretty cheap (aside from the X2/X2 shipping, of course) and nothing overly-complicated once you have the pieces. One thing I forgot to emphasize: right-angled male USB B (for connecting to the Sega I/O) is essential if you want the X2 case to properly close. The fit is perfect, but you'd have a hard time without a right-angled USB B connector.

Thanks for sharing this project. It looks great

I have one question about it. There is a JVS emulator around. Do you think can you test it with TTX2 ?

Thanks

https://www.arcade-projects.com/for...post-213584&highlight=jvs+emulator#post213584

 

[tom5151]

I've tested open jvs 3, and it works with my Naomi 2 and my TTX2.
The most difficult part for me was doing the wire, but I'm not good in electricity and soldering !

Edit: thanks @Bluetear nice write up. Did you do something on your case ? It looks brand new !

 

[Bluetear]

Thanks @hursit and @tom5151. I can definitely read up and test the JVS emulator if necessary, but it sounds like @tom5151 may already have the answer.

And @hursit, thanks for the TR fightstick I picked up last year. I use it all the time and love it. I like the redesign as well, but haven't yet snagged one.

And @tom5151, I cleaned the case with some gentle soap and warm water and then thoroughly dried with a towel and hairdryer before some light polishing with Brasso metal polish. Just use a very soft cloth and try to follow the 'grain' of the stainless steel (as opposed to circular patterns, etc.) Brasso is a very cheap general metal polish, but still did a good job. Likely any steel polish will work pretty well.

 

[chuckying]

The landlord is really a careful and warm-hearted person. Very well, thank you!

 

[Kable]

Beautiful setup! I may have to put one of these together myself!!!

 

[chuckying]

Excuse me, I haven't seen the wiring diagram of the sixth button of IO board. Could you send it again?I can't show a picture of this subject here, please, thank you

 

[werejag]

the picture of his wiring tells what pins for 6th button on teh 14 pin connector

 

[Bluetear]

the picture of his wiring tells what pins for 6th button on teh 14 pin connector

Thanks, @werejag. Yes, as I show in the rough wiring diagram above, button 6 for each player can be found on pin 4 (player 1) and pin 8 (player 2) of the CN3 header (the 14-pin header) on the Sega rev B I/O board. If you have a different jvs I/O, the location of button 6 will be different. Arcade Otaku has a great section explaining the pinouts of just about every jvs I/O. Highly recommend taking a look there if you're using something other than the Sega rev B. I used the rev B because of its compact size and good performance. Good luck, @chuckying.

 

[chuckying]

Thanks for your reply, because I can't see the picture attachment of the theme, and my English is not very good, so I welded the connection wire to my IO board according to the theme, but my joysack and buttons didn't respond after the connection, is there anything wrong?Please help!

 

[nam9]

@chuckying probably because you have connected P1B6 to Ground on the Jamma harness...

If you have button 6 wired to that people n on your harness you will need to cut the trace behind nd the Jamma edge please n in order to isolate it.

 

[Bluetear]

Like @nam9 states above, it looks like you've wired player 1 button 6 directly to ground on the jamma edge. When wired like this, the button test on any game should show that player 1 button 6 is pressed. You definitely have the correct pin on cn3 that corresponds to button 6 for player 1, but you need to wire in a button between ground and pin 4 of cn3 so that the button 6 signal is only active when the button is pressed. If you cut the blue wire in half and connect the loose end to the first contact of an arcade button and then wire the other loose end to the second arcade button contact, the button should work fine for player 1 button 6.

You also need to ensure that the I/O board is powered with 5V via the 6-pin CN6 header on the board. My apologies if I've misunderstood the issue in some way.

No worries about your english proficiency, @chuckying. Also, do you know why you're unable to see the images above? They're hosted by imgur (as widely used on this site), is there something that may be blocking the imgur links on your end? I'd be happy to try to send you an image or two in another way if that may be helpful.