Upgrading Daytona USA 2 cab to OutRun 2 SP.

Hackcell

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Hello,

I'm getting a daytona 2 twin (no game pcb) quite cheap. As there is no game, I'm thinking in upgrading the cabinet and install a couple of chihiros to play Outrun 2. I think the biggest struggle would be to find the right motors to be used for force feedback. The original D2 motors are there, nevertheless I don't think the voltage is the same than the ones used by O2. Speaching of which, I haven't found the values for the O2 feedback motor.

Any suggestion or feedback concerning my project will be highly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
But that wouldn't be an upgrade.

What is it missing? Just the Model 3 PCBs?
 
While this isn't what you're asking, I agree with @nem, it'd be a massive downgrade! Outrun 2 is great of course, but Daytona 2 is an incredible game with no home port. If the FFB is intact it'd especially be worth sourcing, because it's what makes Daytona 2 so amazing. It feels like you're really fighting the wheel like nothing else, and it's one of the best arcade racers ever made. It'd be a shame to convert it to another O2 when there are so many versions of it around IMO.
 
Would be way better to convert a jvs cabinet instead.
Kart Racing or Initial D or F355 for example.
That way you can have an already cabled cabinet.
Model3 is totally different cablage (apart from the steering unit).
 
OR2 Twin requires specialized hardware that may or may not be present/compatible in your cabs. I'm not familiar with D2 hardware so just throwing it out there for you to do further research.

- VGA monitor (not sure if D2 is medium res and/or if they have tri-sync monitors)
- FFB (as you mention) but you can turn that off
- I/O 837-13551-92
- Network hubs
 
I'd say the consensus here is "restore the Daytona 2 and f*ck the O2!"
I'd need to look for the Model 3 boards :)

OR

I can fully restore 1 and install a chihiro in the second D2 cabinet...
 
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Daytona USA 2 boards aren't that expensive. Cheaper than getting it setup for Chihiro anyway.

Youre also going to need sun psus to run the Chihiros.
That's one thing that probably wouldn't need to be replaced. Model 3 PSU should run a Chihiro just fine.

Anyway, keep it as a Daytona USA 2. It's an amazing game.
 
Bump, I think you ended up keeping them as Daytona 2 though. If I remember correctly I sold you a DSB2 sound board on eBay back in 2021 or 22.

As much as I love Sega Super GT and Daytona 2, It is definitely possible to run OutRun 2 and SP on Chihiro system in these but it will require some work, but certainly NOT impossible. I wanted to set this game up in my cab because I practiced and mastered the game at a Round 1 arcade, and it has Ferrari cars in it - just like in Sega Super GT.

You need the following to do so
1. Force feedback - JVS MIDI servo board in place of old servo board (and the cable that connects to the Chihiro with your own extension cable). If your cab is a Lemans 24 or Scud Race, be sure to use a bubble mailer to lay the new servo board on it, so no components short out, because the old servo board sits on a metal frame. The connectors are a tight fit but the force feedback works excellently; just like a real OR2 cabinet. I feel the shakes of driving off course!
2. Video output - video converter that downscales the VGA 31khz VGA to medium res or standard res. I currently am using a GBS-C which works but only downscales 240p so it's a bit of an eyesore up close. But it's useable while I wait for my Ultracade UVC video converter to arrive. I'm powering this directly from my Sun PSU with the power cable for the GD-ROM drive, which my Chihiro system has a CF Card kit.
3. Controls - Adapter that connects buttons, analog, and grounds to JVS IO (a pre-crimped set of IDC or Dupont connectors will work). Lamps are optional so you really only need the last 3 ground pins (9 thru 11) from CN12 for your test/service, VR panel, and shifter. No need for any 5v pins from that connector. I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D798767N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
4. Audio - Connect 4 pins from either set of speakers to the two RCA jacks on the Chihiro filter board. From my experience, OR2 cabinets only used the front speakers so I recommend using them.
5. JVS IO Power - I power the JVS IO board using the 10-pin DSB soundboard connector, for the sake of convenience, but I am not using 12v as I am told the IO board will work without it. I used the aforementioned Dupont kit in the controls section
6. Board Power - If you already have a Sun PSU in your Model 3 cab, great. Just disconnect the Model 3 power connectors and plug on the JVS ones and adjust your voltages accordingly.
7. Shifter - no issue for a Lemans 24; however, you'll need to swap the shifter out with a 2-way one, and possibly the covers because the 4-way shifter is held on with special type screws that are unobtanium, IIRC.

The Model 3 drive board shall be disconnected completely, namely CN5, which shares two of the 3 pins for the 5k pot for steering. If you leave this connected the game will not play properly. I'm sure the same principle applies to people who are converting Ferrari F355 Challenge cabinets specifically to Outrun 2 SP, as it is not compatible with the old Ferrari or Model 3 drive board.
 

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@PaulWoodpross3r was curious about the update on your conversion. Did you ever get your ultracade UVC converter?

And do you happen to know the part number of the JVS MIDI servo board (or have a picture)
 
@PaulWoodpross3r was curious about the update on your conversion. Did you ever get your ultracade UVC converter?

And do you happen to know the part number of the JVS MIDI servo board (or have a picture)
Sorry been meaning to share updates. And yep - I tested it and got a working model from a US seller in a private Facebook group. Happen to have another unit from France that appeared to have been transit damaged; that one only gave a flickering picture :(

So unfortunately the Chihiro is not natively compatible with the UVC. However, it can be paired with another video converter like a GBS-Control or OSSC to display. It's something to do with the LM1881 on the baseboard not sharing sync with the VGA. I tried bridging the sync pin from the Chihiro baseboard to the horiz.sync pin and whilst it worked briefly, the solder came loose and it eventually lifted the solder mask off the chip itself. I might just try an adhesive next time as I don't want to do damage to my remaining working system.

To power the GBS-C, I tapped a single wire into the JVS IO board itself, with that device grounded from the VGA cable.

Another EXTREMELY important note is you will 150% need to adjust the horizontal hold and the geometry on the Nanao MS9 chassis. The UVC's med-res output is 640x384 versus Model 3's 496x384. Whilst the pictures don't do it justice, The end result is a stunning medium resolution picture on OR2SP, that I think even beats the SP SDX Lindbergh's LCDs. I swapped my Sega Super GT stack and original servo board back temporarily and the horizontal hold needed to be re-adjusted, but to have them both working on the same resolution is a project on the backburner.

Servo board is Sega part 838-14174. The original MIDI cable is too short to go from servo board's original location to Chihiro, so I made an extension.
 

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