- Thread starter brizzo
- Start date
Hey
I have tried switching the VCC and GND pins but it does not change a thing
Here is a picture of one of my harnesses (both are identical)
It matches the Puzzloop pinout mentionned here:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Spinner#Seimitsu_LS-29_Pinout
The AO page only mentions 8 pins, but I assume it's a mistake, as it mentions the CN6 connector and we know that the CN6 is a 10 pins one.
I have tried switching the VCC and GND pins but it does not change a thing
Here is a picture of one of my harnesses (both are identical)
It matches the Puzzloop pinout mentionned here:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Spinner#Seimitsu_LS-29_Pinout
| Puzz Loop | CN6 pinout 1. +5VDC 2. 1p 3. 2p 4. - 5. - 6. 1p 7. 2p 8. GND |
The AO page only mentions 8 pins, but I assume it's a mistake, as it mentions the CN6 connector and we know that the CN6 is a 10 pins one.
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OK, some good news concerning my spinners.
I have brought my panel to an electronics shop nearby, and the owner was able to detect some broken tracks on my P1 spinner board. He fixed them and this spinner now works almost perfectly. Sometimes (rarely) the spinner just does not react when turned. The thing is, those spinners seem to need to be very precisely set. The spinner board must be set at a very specific position to detect the encoding wheel correctly, and it might still need to be adjusted a bit.
The P2 spinner does not work yet. The tracks seem to be OK, but it does not work when plugged as P1 either. For now I don't know if the opto switch is dead or if it's a matter of positioning, but so far it as given no signs of life.
It was late when I got to the shop and the owner was a bit lazy to plug on the oscilloscope, but we manage to ascertain that my pinout was indeed correct. I'll post a picture with the full pinout when I have time.
By the way, I'm playing Pop'n Bounce on MVS, and the game has a Paddle control mode in the settings, and I was wondering how it was supposed to work and could not find any answer. Was there some kind of IO board like Irritating Maze? Does anyone know anything about that? That game is tough as nails by the way lol.
I have brought my panel to an electronics shop nearby, and the owner was able to detect some broken tracks on my P1 spinner board. He fixed them and this spinner now works almost perfectly. Sometimes (rarely) the spinner just does not react when turned. The thing is, those spinners seem to need to be very precisely set. The spinner board must be set at a very specific position to detect the encoding wheel correctly, and it might still need to be adjusted a bit.
The P2 spinner does not work yet. The tracks seem to be OK, but it does not work when plugged as P1 either. For now I don't know if the opto switch is dead or if it's a matter of positioning, but so far it as given no signs of life.
It was late when I got to the shop and the owner was a bit lazy to plug on the oscilloscope, but we manage to ascertain that my pinout was indeed correct. I'll post a picture with the full pinout when I have time.
By the way, I'm playing Pop'n Bounce on MVS, and the game has a Paddle control mode in the settings, and I was wondering how it was supposed to work and could not find any answer. Was there some kind of IO board like Irritating Maze? Does anyone know anything about that? That game is tough as nails by the way lol.
I have not seen it mentionned before, but the adapter also does work when plugged on a Naomi with a Capcom Converter.
Don't know how many JVS games this gives access to, but one should at least be able to play Azumanga Daioh Puzzle Bobble with spinners, should he want to.
Don't know how many JVS games this gives access to, but one should at least be able to play Azumanga Daioh Puzzle Bobble with spinners, should he want to.
Ok here is a nice update on my seimitsu arcade spinners,
With the help of the electronics shop guy, we have been able to make sure that the IR LED was ok but both of the photoreceptors in the photointerruptor were dead.
Here is a pic of the photointerruptor:
The component was identified as a Sharp GP1A06 photointerruptor
Here is the datasheet:
https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/94321/SHARP/GP1A06.html
I have been able to buy a bunch of those on ebay here:
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/264965092982?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
My spinners now both work fine now, and I have a bunch of spare sensors to keep them working !
Also, it happens that I already have encountered a problem with that same specific component before, when having trouble with a Sega trackball sensor board for SegaSonic.
By that time, I hadn't identified the component so I couldn't replace it, but it was the opposite situation: the sensors were OK and the IR led was dead. the guy fixed it by drilling a tiny hole and put a red led in place of the IR led, and now it works perfectly !
May those infos be useful to anyone who might have trouble with those spinners or that component.
With the help of the electronics shop guy, we have been able to make sure that the IR LED was ok but both of the photoreceptors in the photointerruptor were dead.
Here is a pic of the photointerruptor:
The component was identified as a Sharp GP1A06 photointerruptor
Here is the datasheet:
https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/94321/SHARP/GP1A06.html
I have been able to buy a bunch of those on ebay here:
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/264965092982?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
My spinners now both work fine now, and I have a bunch of spare sensors to keep them working !
Also, it happens that I already have encountered a problem with that same specific component before, when having trouble with a Sega trackball sensor board for SegaSonic.
By that time, I hadn't identified the component so I couldn't replace it, but it was the opposite situation: the sensors were OK and the IR led was dead. the guy fixed it by drilling a tiny hole and put a red led in place of the IR led, and now it works perfectly !
May those infos be useful to anyone who might have trouble with those spinners or that component.
Ho shit, didn't realize this got posted 
I wanted to run a few more tests before posting but here's the thing.
Seimitsu spinners and Brizzo's adapter do work fine on MVS.
But when playing on Taito F3 ( tested on Puzzle Bobble 2X and PB4) , they stop working after a certain rotation speed is reached. Like some kind of input overload or something.
My F3 mother board is working fine. And the spinners work fine with Arkanoid Returns when connected directly to the Jamma connector and set in Sensor Mode (they are very sensitive tho).
Is there something to be done about that?
I wanted to run a few more tests before posting but here's the thing.
Seimitsu spinners and Brizzo's adapter do work fine on MVS.
But when playing on Taito F3 ( tested on Puzzle Bobble 2X and PB4) , they stop working after a certain rotation speed is reached. Like some kind of input overload or something.
My F3 mother board is working fine. And the spinners work fine with Arkanoid Returns when connected directly to the Jamma connector and set in Sensor Mode (they are very sensitive tho).
Is there something to be done about that?
AndyMcDandy
New User
Spinner adapters are available.
The adapter is designed for use with quadrature type spinners (like what was used originally with Arkanoid), to allow a spinner to be used with a joystick based game (like Puzzle Bobble).
AndyMcDandy
New User
So it doesn't allow spinners like SpinTrak to be used with old arcade PCB's like Arkanoid with Jamma adapter? That's the impression I got from your post on page 5.
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I got a chance to test this out last night. At first I couldn't get it to work right. The inputs were floating or stuck left/right when checking the service menus. I found an earlier post in this thread that mentioned some Taito spinners are missing a pull down resistor. Sure enough, both of my spinners are missing the resistor. I followed brizzo's recommendation and soldered 4.7K resistors from the LEFT and RIGHT pins to GND on both player connectors on the underside of the spinner IO. I tested on a few games and it's working great!
One thing to mention is that spinning the spinner faster doesn't exactly correlate to faster movement in game. It's still limited to the speed at which the game moves when you hold the joystick in a direction. This can be awkward at times when the rate you spin doesn't match what you are seeing on screen. I think after a few games I will get the feel for it though. No fault of the IO board, just an observation!
One thing to mention is that spinning the spinner faster doesn't exactly correlate to faster movement in game. It's still limited to the speed at which the game moves when you hold the joystick in a direction. This can be awkward at times when the rate you spin doesn't match what you are seeing on screen. I think after a few games I will get the feel for it though. No fault of the IO board, just an observation!
are these still available and will they work on cps2 for eco fighters with the hursit repro spinner?
XtraSmiley
Legendary
How does it compare to a real Arkanoid spinner? From my childhood I seem to remember the Arkanoid games having a heavy gear system while games like Tempest are free spinning. Is the gear friction missed?
@brizzo I'll send payment for one of these when I get home tomorrow, but a quick question about a potential update for these. Is there anyway to add an option to easily switch inputs so games like Eco Fighters don't need the wires to be modified to work. Something like a jumper on the Sega 16 / JAMMA adapter that lets you move buttons around?
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Anyone have footage of this working with the mistercade and hursits spinner that are now shipping? How does it fare compared to the spinner direct to a cps1 forgotton worlds? Until I get the CPS1 multi all I have is the mistercade to try hursits spinners on. Wanna see this in action and potentially place an order for 2 of these.Yes they are available. It works with any game that uses joystick left/right inputs. Hursit's repro spinner is compatible.
Send me a PM if you want one
