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you're confusing vacuum forming with injection molding... Injection molding forms do indeed cost upward of $5000 because it has to be made out of metal with precision maching. Vacuum Forming mold making is much cheaper and can easily be done by hand out of wood or clay. Even easier if you have a part to make a template with you can just fill it with clay to make the mold. It's not expensive it's justs a matter of finding someone who has a big enough machine and making the mold.
Indeed ! I probably was confusing. I am not very familiar with the different types of industrial plastic forming techniques (or whatever this is called XD).
So thanks for explaining the differences :)

And yeah ! Your industrial vacuum forming machine seems quite the cool toy for such projects !
I would have gladly lend you a Varth case to help with your project if I had one, but I am not that lucky.
 
For anyone interested, these japan boards came withe the later revision short "DASH' A boards.
dug up the pictures for you
Very cool, never seen that one. Is it shorter (the case) or does it look shorter because the PCB is longer?
from The Obligatory "Post Your Recent Purchases" Thread

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That's interesting and I remember that post!

Hey @undamned I ended up buying this Varth, did you end up putting an infinikey in it?
 
yeah, I discovered that even some original C-boards don't fit in the case. it's designed for the battery backed boards without any headers and the clearance on those is tight.
 
OK, no worries.

I'll keep an eye on the battery then!

Man, your chips are tiny, it really must be a tight fit!
 
you can always add spacers between the halves of the shells to create space :) ill probably end up doing that to another one i have, or maybe 3d print or laser cut some acrylic. Then you can install an infinikey
 
i installed a cr2032 battery holder on mine. it's a "flush mount" style, i thought it would have clearance. apparently I should have measured first. I ended up installing spacers into the plastic halves, and it's just ok. I was planning to now mount another battery holder with double sided foam sticky tape to the outside of the plastic case, running wires to the inside. I was debating if I should kill the game, or if I should try to do some kind of parallel battery surgery? it was suicided when I got it, so I know I can bring it back.

also of note, I believe only the Japanese version has the battery backed c board.
 
also of note, I believe only the Japanese version has the battery backed c board.
of Varth... yes, but I don't believe the USA version had the case either.


I was planning to now mount another battery holder with double sided foam sticky tape to the outside of the plastic case, running wires to the inside. I was debating if I should kill the game, or if I should try to do some kind of parallel battery surgery?
if it were me I'd just install an original style solder battery back in it, the batteries on these C-Boards last a VERY long time so why do a hacky battery solution if it'll be fine for the next 15-20 years?
 
If you look at the link above, it shows the US version of Varth, which has a case, but is longer.
 
I have a Japanese version with the long A “dash” board (there are 2 jp revisions btw, maybe they each come with a specific A board length ?).
Personally I doubt the US version did come with those cases in the first place, hence the japanese sticker. Most likely something pieced together, but I might be wrong.
 
I have a Japanese version with the long A “dash” board (there are 2 jp revisions btw, maybe they each come with a specific A board length ?).
Personally I doubt the US version did come with those cases in the first place, hence the japanese sticker. Most likely something pieced together, but I might be wrong.
OK, that's fair, I was just going with what @undamned said in that link where he posted the pictures.
 
the only other game I've seen with the case is Adventure Quiz Capcom World 2, does anyone know if any other games came with it?
 
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of Varth... yes, but I don't believe the USA version had the case either.

if it were me I'd just install an original style solder battery back in it, the batteries on these C-Boards last a VERY long time so why do a hacky battery solution if it'll be fine for the next 15-20 years?
yeah, you’re probably right. I do my cps2 this way with actual batteries on the board. I have just been in a remove the batteries from boards mentality lately, but I suppose there’s nothing wrong with it if you commit to maintaining things.
 
I want to chime in and say my Varth board from @Derick2k arrived exactly as described (see picture above) and packed very well, in a Japanese box no less!

He also was kind enough to send me S16 EPROMs so I can get my multi squared away when it arrives, so

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
 
I never really liked the Varth case, its just too basic/simple.
The 1.5 cases are where its at for me, and while I've never seen one opened up in person the CPSChanger cases are also awesome (I think).
 
The 1.5 cases are where its at for me, and while I've never seen one opened up in person the CPSChanger cases are also awesome (I think).
I'm pretty sure they're the same case.

I own a CPS1.5 now and while I'm a big fan of any factory plastic case the CPS1.5 case kinda sucks, still looks nice and is way better than the Varth case but definitely ranks near the bottom in terms of OEM plastic arcade PCB cases.
 
The 1.5 cases are where its at for me, and while I've never seen one opened up in person the CPSChanger cases are also awesome (I think).
I'm pretty sure they're the same case.
I own a CPS1.5 now and while I'm a big fan of any factory plastic case the CPS1.5 case kinda sucks, still looks nice and is way better than the Varth case but definitely ranks near the bottom in terms of OEM plastic arcade PCB cases.
Have to agree with the above. Best case for me from the CPS line has to be the cps2.
 
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