Vewlix teardown, clean & rebuild (Completed).

[penrhos]

I picked up a pair of Vewlix-F's from a group order over on ArcadeOtaku One has been cleaned and is in use (with a slight screen issue) and is working fine with Niko's TTX2-Multi nestled inside.

The second one needs some TLC (and now I've had time to strip it down some parts).

Every cab I buy I dismantle, clean and re-assemble for three specific reasons:-

1. Second-hand Japanese cabs stink and are usually pretty dirty (unless your supplier has serviced them first).
2. I get to check all the electrics are safe and if anything needs repairing/replacing.
3. You always find something inside a used cab (best for me was £50 worth of change jammed in the back of a Sega Megalo, and 1/2 Oz of weed found in the cash box of a bootleg Galaxians woodie I bought from a dodgy part of Nottingham).

So today I've gone from this....

To this....

And this....

And found these loose inside the cab....

I've now got several hours with a hoover, Kitchen surface wipes, magic eraser, hot soapy water ahead of me while I clean everything and re-assemble it...

I've documented the disassembly process and will add it to the thread once I've got it cleaned, as the wife is at work and the plastics are on the kitchen work surfaces and I need them gone by the time she gets home or I'm a dead-man.

 

[penrhos]

Stage-1 of cleaning. Plastics to go into the sink with hot soapy water, magic eraser and some elbow-grease....

I've already removed the metalwork from the rears.

 

[rae]

The dead man bit sounds familiar! Thanks for the extensive writeup!

 

[tiff_lee]

Nice work, nothing like starting from a fresh baseline with a nice clean cab.

I assume this is a Jap import cab then? does anyone know how much power one of these consume? i'm trying to spec a suitable transformer for mine for a proper 240V conversion.

 

[Niko]

Out of curiosity, how was the side plastics on the left and right of the screens? I've noticed on two different Vewlix's that some of the plastic standoffs for the screws that hold the metal bracket are often cracked/broken.

 

[Derick2k]

magic eraser

- Dont use these on the plastics, they will dull/scuff them up. Unless you are going to repolish them.

Awesome job

 

[penrhos]

magic eraser

- Dont use these on the plastics, they will dull/scuff them up. Unless you are going to repolish them.
Awesome job

I'm only using it on the worst of the scuffs - and I'll go over the lot with Novus at a later date (when I can find the set I have). The main point of today is to get rid of the smell and clean the grime off it so I can give it a good test and work on it without feeling itchy and wanting a shower afterwards.

Out of curiosity, how was the side plastics on the left and right of the screens? I've noticed on two different Vewlix's that some of the plastic standoffs for the screws that hold the metal bracket are often cracked/broken.

Fortunately all the standoffs in the side panels are fine, no signs of cracking, but I made sure I didn't over-tighten them when I refitted the metalwork.

Nice work, nothing like starting from a fresh baseline with a nice clean cab.

I assume this is a Jap import cab then? does anyone know how much power one of these consume? i'm trying to spec a suitable transformer for mine for a proper 240V conversion.

The Sticker on the back states "290W @ 100V" so 2.9A draw for just the cab. For a TTX add 220W, TTX2 add 400W, TTX3 add 600W,MAME PC - whatever PSU is in it. I'm running mine on a 750Va 100VAC step-down which is plenty for what I want to run in it (Naomi/246/256/TTX1/TTX2 + JAMMA PCB's).

What I have spotted is it would be easy to change it to 240V if you're not a purist.
Monitor PSU 100VAC in 24VDC out, Aux PSU (lights, Amp) 100VAC in 12VDC out, Wai-Ya PSU 100VAC in, 12VDC, 5VDC, 3.3VDC out . Mains filter is already rated at 250V so you could leave it as is....
There is a 230VAC version of the Wei-ya "P272G" that should be a straight swap, the Aux PSU and the LCD PSU any decent PSU would work (I'll post current model numbers later).


After 3 hours of scrubbing, hoovering and cleaning - I'm starting to put it back together, wife gets home in 3 hours so I should have it reassembled and out of sight in time....

Lower side panels - Before...

And After....

One thing this thread can't do is give you the benefit of the smell of nicotine and grime these panels are giving off...

The water in the bowl was a disgusting grey colour by the time I'd cleaned all the panels and I got through a whole pack of kitchen surface wipes cleaning the cab.

When dealing with this you need to wear latex gloves or use hand barrier creams.

 

[Hadouken Arcade]

Control module is the worst. lol I kept my cab in the garage until I completely washed it.

 

[penrhos]

Here we go - How to strip a Vewlix.

You will need an cross-point screwdriver (pref magnetic so you don't drop the screws when you remove them) and a small set of sockets (i used one of those screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads).

I'll split this down into sections.

Section-1 - The marquee section.

Remove 6 screws from the curved black plastic rear surround and it will pull off backwards.

This reveals the bracket that supports the marquee and LED strip.

Next remove the 2 black screws on the rear that line up with the silver strip at the top of the plastic trim - this releases the metal side trim, remove it and put to one side. As you can see there is a connector inside the left trim panel, disconnect it (12VDC supply to LED strip in marquee).

Once you have done that remove the screw from the metal bracket behind it (remove screw from other side too).

Then remove the screw in the middle of the metal plate at control-panel height on side trim.

You can then lift the top side trims off.

The reason for doing it this way around is there is a screw holding the front marquee trim in place and if you drop it - it goes all the way down the inside of these panels - by removing them you can put your hand under the end-plate and catch it if it falls out.

Now back to the top....

the metal plates that hold the marquee in place are attached by 2 small nuts, undo them and the metal plate can be removed - now you can access the screws that hold the front in place.

Remove the 4 screws along the top and the 2 at the sides of the white trim - you can then remove the front trim and the Vewlix plastic plate (be careful as once the front trim has been undone it'll fall out and could break).

Now it's time to remove the hoop.

 

[penrhos]

There are 2 screws at each end - undo them and the hoop will lift off (assuming you disconnected the power cable earlier).

Now when you inspect the top of the cab you'll notice there are 3 screws holding a piece of metal that curves around to the front - remove the screws and metal plate

That plate covers the gap between the top of the cab and the top of the upper pair of speakers (as it's larger if screen is Yoko than when it's Tate).

Next - remove the 4 long screws that fasten the upper speakers to the legs, tilt the speaker unit forwards and unclip the speaker cables from the rear of the boxes - you can then remove the entire speaker/blanking plate unit out.

This ends section-1.

 

[penrhos]

Section-2 : Removing the monitor.

This is pretty straightforward.

Turn cab round and on the rear upper section there is a metal panel secured with 2 screws - remove them and the panel.

Disconnect the cables from the right-hand side of the screen (Power, Remote, DVI (Optional), VGA). Then undo the 4 bolts.

Turn the cab around and take hold of the sides of the monitor frame, lift it out and put it somewhere safe (where you're not going to knock it over).

undo the 2 long screws holding these brackets in place - note which way they are mounted - repeat for the other side.

undo the 3 screws holding the long metal plate that runs along the bottom of the speaker unit and remove the metal plate - both of mine were stuck down with spilt liquids.

Undo this clip and undo the wires connected to the back of the speakers and you can remove the lower speaker system.

If you've followed me so far your cab should look like this....

 

[penrhos]

Section-3 - The base unit...

Unlock the rear lower panel and if fitted remove the 3 screws securing it in place (if you have no key - you can remove the nut from the lock from the front of the cab. Remove the PCB shelf.

on the side panels there are 5 screws, 2 near the bottom, 2 in the middle and one higher up - these hold the lower side trim in place remove all 10 screws.

Optional - depending on how anal you are about cleaning stuff.

Disconnect and remove the 3 PSU's in the base - the 12VDC Aux PSU and 24VDC LCD PSU are mounted on 4 PCB feet - the Wai-Ya is screwed to the wood with 4 screws, loosen the 2 rear ones and remove the 2 front ones (as rear mounts are slots)

You should now have this....

That's as far as I've disassembled it but you could remove the wood and all the looms if your's was particularly rank - mine cleaned up in-situ using kitchen work-surface anti-bacterial wipes.

 

[penrhos]

Cleaning...

The side-trim has metal brackets fastened inside, carefully undo the screws and scrub the panels & brackets clean with plenty of hot soapy water. remove any marks with magic eraser (you will need to re-polish the panels if you do). when you refit the screws DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN them as the plastic pillars they fasten into will break!

This is why I strip down any cab I get - I found all of this loose inside this cab....

To re-assemble reverse the process - however I do have some tips.

When you fit the white front marquee retainer, fit the two middle screws first - then fit the edge ones as the extra flex you have makes lining up the screws simpler, also refit before putting the side trim back on in case you drop the screws.

Fit the top pair of speakers loosely so you can tweak them so no gap above monitor.

 

[penrhos]

Final part.

As you notice all my pictures show cab without a control panel attached. This is how you remove it.

Unlock panel, hinge open control panel section.

Undo the two large screws at the edges, hinge rear section open.

Disconnect cables for IO PCB and light (if fitted) that go through hole in right corner.

There are 4 bolts holding it in place -

Left set.

Right set.

Remove the front one of each set and loosen the rear one - push the entire panel towards the screen slightly and you can lift it off.

To remove the light unit.

Remove 2 screws holding the metal glass-clips in place and remove both.

Remove glass and diffuser, remove the 4 screws holding the light unit to the panel.

Remove wingnut, unclip cable ties and unbolt earth connection and the JVS/Fastio PCB and loom can be removed.

 

[penrhos]

To remove the end plastic trims - undo 4 screws and they pull off...

Your work area should look like this....

 

[penrhos]

Electrics.

in this picture...

Mains filter - bottom left corner
12VDC PSU - Left (front-back).
24VDC PSU - Next to back door panel (nearest PSU).
Wai-Ya PSU - Right (front-back).

Bearing in mind this is a 100VAC Japanese cab - the mains filter is rated at 250VAC.

12VDC PSU supplies marquee light, control panel light, Audio Amp, Fan.

24VDC PSU supplies power to the LCD panel only.

Wai-ya PSU Game board power.

So if you live somewhere that's 230VAC (UK/Australia/Europe) what options do you have?

There's the Wei-ya P272G - which is the 230V version of the P271 - £50.
The 12VDC PSU could be swapped for a 75W 12VDC power supply - £30.
The 24VDC PSU could be swapped for a 150W 24VDC power supply - £50.

Or you could run the cab on a 750Va or larger 230V->100V step-down (it must be 100V as the Wei-Ya is unstable if run on 110/120V) - £100.

I've priced up the options above and in the UK buying the PSU's from Mouser/Farnell or a 110V step-down from Airlink it's just a fraction cheaper to use a step-down.

 

[penrhos]

I've uploaded a PDF version of this over on the ArcadeOtaku Wiki.

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/File:Tai ... de_Pt1.pdf

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/File:Tai ... de_Pt2.pdf

If anyone spots any major errors let me know and I'll revise the documents.

I't's split into two as the Wiki limits uploads to 2Mb and the original PDF was 3.8Mb, I'd have to split it into four sections to upload it here.....

 

[tiff_lee]

Thanks for the info and pictures.

Looking at those power supplies they accept 100-120VAC which is handy as there are some pretty cheap 240-110V transformers on ebay that I could get for them, by cheap I mean much much cheaper than replacing all the internal PSU's. They are also significantly cheaper than the equivalent 100V transformer, I think that is just the economies of scale though.

 

[penrhos]

Thanks for the info and pictures.

Looking at those power supplies they accept 100-120VAC which is handy as there are some pretty cheap 240-110V transformers on ebay that I could get for them, by cheap I mean much much cheaper than replacing all the internal PSU's. They are also significantly cheaper than the equivalent 100V transformer, I think that is just the economies of scale though.

the only problem with doing that is the Wei-ya psu is crap and doesn't work well unless fed 100VAC. You could replace it with a sanwa SWN-JVS or even a SUN psu fron a naomi and it would be fine. If you live in 230VAC land like I do then the Wei-ya P272G can be picked up for around £40.

 

[tiff_lee]

Thanks for the info and pictures.

Looking at those power supplies they accept 100-120VAC which is handy as there are some pretty cheap 240-110V transformers on ebay that I could get for them, by cheap I mean much much cheaper than replacing all the internal PSU's. They are also significantly cheaper than the equivalent 100V transformer, I think that is just the economies of scale though.

the only problem with doing that is the Wei-ya psu is crap and doesn't work well unless fed 100VAC. You could replace it with a sanwa SWN-JVS or even a SUN psu fron a naomi and it would be fine. If you live in 230VAC land like I do then the Wei-ya P272G can be picked up for around £40.

ah yeah, I just see your previous comment further up about them being unstable at 110/120, hhmm i'm sure our US counterparts just roll these things out of container and run them straight off the mains. Oh well looks like i'll have to opt for the more expensive 100V transformer then or swap out the PSUs in the cab.