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Thomas

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Now on to the monitor. Standard stuff here. Geometry problems and poor convergence around the edges making things blurry:

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Cleared out the broken bits from the deflection yoke:

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(This step is mandatory, I learned. I initially tried to skip it and immediately regretted it as I heard one of those broken pieces fall as I mounted the monitor back in the cabinet. I had to pull the monitor down, remove all of my convergence strips, and start from the beginning.)

I read somewhere about not discharging monitors because there's a bleeder resistor. That's true, and I've never seen a spark when discharging a CRT. But it's easy and quick to discharge so I think it's good to do every time, especially when working on the monitor immediately after it was powered on. That bleeder resistor might not discharge fast enough, might be faulty, or might not even be there for some monitors.

Here is the monitor complete with the convergence strips that I bought on ebay, with ASI brand 388 electronic grade silicone added for extra adhesion, and some Permatex Dielectric Grease around the anode cap:

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End results are not perfect but pretty good. I still have some poor convergence and even had to make the geometry worse in order to improve the convergence. Overall, much better than before:

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For Gunbird 2 I needed to change this jumper to "WIDE" so the image would fill the screen. The GB2 manual mentions adjusting the aspect ratio because the game is "wide sideways" so I suppose it's normal that I would need to do this.

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I still couldn't get the GB2 test menu circles to be circles (instead of ovals) without leaving some blank space on the sides. Maybe the game is supposed to be letterboxed? I don't know. I chose to have slightly non-perfect circles in favor of no black bars on the sides:

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I used 99% alcohol to clean the screen per the Blast City owner's manual but that didn't clean off everything. There were still some small sparkly bits all over the screen. Invisible Glass worked much better:

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After some time turning knobs back and forth I was able to make the picture look really good. At first I was disappointed with this monitor not only because of the convergence problems but also because the colors weren't as vivid as they are in my Astro monitor. But now I think it looks great:



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Ziggy Cheetos Dust

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@Thomas are the original speakers 4ohm but the the replacements you got 8 ohms? I’m trying to work out if you dropped in the new speakers and connected them the same way as the old ones.
 
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tiff_lee

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@Thomas are the original speakers 4ohm but the the replacements you got 8ohms? I’m trying to work out if you dropped in the new speakers and connected them the same way as the old ones.
Yes, stock is 4ohm in series so total impedance of 8 ohms. Thomas's replacement as per his drawing is 16 ohms.

Some guy on the facebook candy cab group made a jig for repairing stock blast speakers, unfortunately he didn't seem keen to release the STL (despite not wanting to profit from it).

Great work @Thomas cab is looking super clean! pretty much all my Blasts suffer from similar fractures under the control panel, just something else to repair eurgh.
That PSU came up clean, did you mask over the original stickers? it's hard to tell, one min its all black then they just appear again (I suspect you sprayed over masking tape?).
 

Thomas

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Yes, stock is 4ohm in series so total impedance of 8 ohms. Thomas's replacement as per his drawing is 16 ohms.

Some guy on the facebook candy cab group made a jig for repairing stock blast speakers, unfortunately he didn't seem keen to release the STL (despite not wanting to profit from it).

Great work @Thomas cab is looking super clean! pretty much all my Blasts suffer from similar fractures under the control panel, just something else to repair eurgh.
That PSU came up clean, did you mask over the original stickers? it's hard to tell, one min its all black then they just appear again (I suspect you sprayed over masking tape?).
Correct. 16 ohms total (tweeter is 4 ohm but doesn't add to the total due to the capacitor). New speakers are connected in series like the original. I explained why I connected in series (instead of parallel) in the previous post.

I dunked the PSU cover in a tray filled with vinegar without thinking about the stickers and without knowing that the black part is some kind of vinyl and not paint. It all peeled off easily and the stickers weren't damaged so I removed them, sanded the metal, painted, then glued the stickers back on.
Edit: original coating is paint with two stickers applied over it.

I didn't rinse and dry properly so that's all flash rust in the photo that I sanded off before painting. I think I used a regular glue stick or maybe some Elmer's glue to put the stickers back on.

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Thomas

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Next step: I added new 1/8" adhesive foam to the monitor mask/bezel:

IMG_6781.JPEG



And here are all the things I did to make the bezel fit in vertical position:

-adjusted the monitor mounting bolts so that they are in line with the monitor mounting holes
-filed 1mm off the monitor mounting holes to make sure they wouldn't get caught on the bolts
-pushed the monitor frame all the way back on the mounting bolts
-pushed the cabinet in at the top with a wrench so that it wouldn't block the bezel
-ran out of ideas so I filed a few millimeters off of the bezel mounting holes
-and lastly, forced the bezel latches into the bezel with a screwdriver


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The monitor bezel easily snaps into place when the monitor is mounted horizontally. But in vertical position, the bottom of the monitor screen blocks the bezel from moving in far enough to allow the latches to lock into place. Even after filing the bezel holes I need to push very hard against the bottom while at the same time pushing hard with a screwdriver on the latches. I spent a lot of time on this and never properly fixed the issue. I don't want to file any more off the bezel holes because they might become too thin and crack. (Note: this bezel and the Astro City bezel are fiberglass, not plastic as I had previously thought). Any ideas on how to fix this are very welcome.

The gap between the cabinet under the bezel and the control panel base seems too wide. Must be related to the bezel fitment problem.

IMG_7016.JPEG
 

Thomas

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The coin mechanism that I bought wasn't accepting 100 yen coins so I first gave it a cleaning with alcohol:

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Then sprayed with WD-40:

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Still wasn't working, and after closer inspection, realized that the screws were not in the original positions. Turned them back in line with the red paint:

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Still wasn't working. Then I saw that one part was bent to accept a different coin size. I bought this from a UK website so that makes sense:

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It took a few attempts to bend back to the correct position so that 100 yen coins would be accepted every time and not get stuck or rejected:

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Then I discovered a new problem. No mounting studs:

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I couldn't find these anywhere online but fortunately I found some 2mm x 6mm screws in my hardware drawer and those work very well:

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And that's everything I've done so far. I already bought all the missing parts I need like locks and I'm only waiting on one more thing from Yaton. I'm currently in the process of repainting the monitor bezel right now and after that I need to sort out the control panel and buttons. I finally took some time to read about sticks and buttons so now I know what people are talking about when they say "JLF" or "LS-56". I think I'll try a Seimitsu lever and see what the difference is. Then I think (and hope) all I have left are cosmetic things like repainting the coin entry surround and possibly using some touch up paint around the cabinet. I'll post an update once I get everything done.
 

notsonic

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That pcb suspender looks really janky.
I recently picked up these and they work pretty well https://www.ebay.com/itm/400198868479

I think the monitor frame is supposed to have round holes and sit on the lip of the round base of the mounting studs, not on the studs themselves. That couple millimeters might be the cause of your bezel problems.
 

Thomas

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@Thomas have you checked under the control panel whether it’s affixed properly. That might be what the gap is?

The control panel base is flush with the front of the cabinet. It looks like the front of the cabinet should curve outward more to follow the curve of the upper part of the control panel base. Or maybe it was made that way.

That pcb suspender looks really janky.
I recently picked up these and they work pretty well https://www.ebay.com/itm/400198868479

I think the monitor frame is supposed to have round holes and sit on the lip of the round base of the mounting studs, not on the studs themselves. That couple millimeters might be the cause of your bezel problems.

I thought about getting one of those PCB holders on ebay but I like my janky one better.

The Astro City has what you describe. I think the monitor in my Blast is the original so I don't know if it's supposed to have different mounting holes.

Astro:
IMG_7092.JPG


There's a metal plate on the Blast so the holes wouldn't be able to sit around the base even if they were bigger:
IMG_6783.JPEG
 

notsonic

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The control panel base is flush with the front of the cabinet. It looks like the front of the cabinet should curve outward more to follow the curve of the upper part of the control panel base. Or maybe it was made that way.



I thought about getting one of those PCB holders on ebay but I like my janky one better.

The Astro City has what you describe. I think the monitor in my Blast is the original so I don't know if it's supposed to have different mounting holes.

You're right, I have an Astro and a Blast and I was thinking of the Astro. I've found more so with the Blast that the way you mount the monitor really dictates the squareness of the cabinet, and subsequently how well the bezel fits. To get my bezel on right I have to press on the top corner of the cabinet to get it in square before seating it all the way.

My control panel also has a gap at the center, and other out of square type imperfections all over. I think its just the nature of it being a much softer plastic composite than like an Astro City.
 

Ziggy Cheetos Dust

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@Thomas just read this for a second time and it’s been really helpful. You know a lot of stuff and make it look easy. I don’t have the confidence to strip down my entire cabinet in one go like that. I’m in the process of cleaning my filthy power supply. I had the panel powder coated. The PS case is quite tarnished so I’ll use some WD40 lanolin corrosion inhibitor (called WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor in the US) on that and other rust spots. The AMP UP 3 connector is a great tip for extra power - thanks.

I also saw people having trouble with the cabinet screws so got myself a Vessel Impacta screwdriver which turns 12 deg when you hit it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BI8HHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’d love to hear how the machine finished up.
 

hyp36rmax

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Another one for the books, thank you for the detailed build log, lots for me to reference when I finally start. Awesome work!
 

Thomas

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@Thomas just read this for a second time and it’s been really helpful. You know a lot of stuff and make it look easy. I don’t have the confidence to strip down my entire cabinet in one go like that. I’m in the process of cleaning my filthy power supply. I had the panel powder coated. The PS case is quite tarnished so I’ll use some WD40 lanolin corrosion inhibitor (called WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor in the US) on that and other rust spots. The AMP UP 3 connector is a great tip for extra power - thanks.

I also saw people having trouble with the cabinet screws so got myself a Vessel Impacta screwdriver which turns 12 deg when you hit it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BI8HHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’d love to hear how the machine finished up.
On the power supply case, if it's not showing any rust maybe leaving it alone is best. Should be fine I think even if the plating looks oxidized. The corrossion inhibitors are stinky and sticky, although that does fade over time. If you don't have the parts and proper crimp tool for the AMP UP connector you can buy the connector with AC power plug from Lemony Vengeance on this forum. The screws were very, very difficult to remove. That Vessel driver looks like a good plan. I still haven't finished working on the cabinet but I'll post an update once I make some good progress.
 
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