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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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markedkiller78 said:
I aprreciate that people may have issues with their cabs, not just from this container, but please remember that there are hundreds of egret 2 owners that have no issues with their PSUs.

Naomi is JVS and draws too much power for the stock egret 2 PSU (and many other jamma cabs) it should power CPS2 when working properly.

It’s not a fault that the PSU can’t power a Naomi.
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Apologies, I am not normally a disagreeable person. But none in the group buy needs a ten year long owner making holier-than-thou statements about his blissful marriage with his Egret II. GFY (Good for You) that you haven't had any issues. Patently, there are Egret II owners out there that don't have issues with their stock PSU's. Many in this group buy shall be 1st time owners and might, will, and/or already have. There is no value add in anything you stated, and you come off as, well, one that self-felates. Or attempts to (hope C1-through-C7 can withstand your repeated attempts). We were all extended a huge solid by XeD and are all just trying to help each other out here.

Also, I too expected the CPS2 to draw less power than the NAOMI (w/Capcom I/O and MvC2). But that wasn't the case in what I saw. The DMM was plugged into the harness during testing. Under NAOMI load, the reading was 4.75vdc. Under CPS2 load, the reading was 4.56vdc. And you are completely wrong. The NAOMI w/Capcom I/O when used with carts is fully JAMMA compliant.

And again, GFY.
 
I don't consider that drama, just a personal difference of opinion. However, @markedkiller78 is indeed factually correct. E2 PSU was engineered for JAMMA standard power requirements, before JVS and Naomi even became an industry standard. Thus, why we have 2 other flavors released years later of this cab, AWSD and E3.

With that being said, there is no "Standard Requirement" stating you have to keep an E2 completely stock. You build it to your needs, its why folks go out of their way to build plug n play harnesses to retain stock wiring.

I feel that is the most important part. Retaining a standard to preserve the cab by not hacking it into a mess, but by no means required to keep it limited at its stock power.

While I hate using analogies, I think the perfect one in this case is like upgrading a car stereo with an aftermarket head unit. Using proper adapters to retain the stock wiring. As the factory radio does not suit your needs. However, when it comes time to trade that vehicle in, you can easily toss that factory radio back in.
 
markedkiller78 said:
Naomi is JVS and draws too much power for the stock egret 2 PSU (and many other jamma cabs) it should power CPS2 when working properly.

It’s not a fault that the PSU can’t power a Naomi.
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ReplicaX said:
@markedkiller78 is indeed factually correct. E2 PSU was engineered for JAMMA standard power requirements, before JVS and Naomi even became an industry standard.
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Who said anything about running a NAOMI on these E2s?

As far as I can tell the only time NAOMI was mentioned at all was someone running it on a Windy, which IS a JVS cab.

these people are having issues running JAMMA boards.

Dont get me wrong. I'm all for keeping original equipment but making straw-man arguments isn't helping to create a solution for those with problematic PSUs.
 
twistedsymphony said:
ReplicaX said:
@markedkiller78 is indeed factually correct. E2 PSU was engineered for JAMMA standard power requirements, before JVS and Naomi even became an industry standard.
Click to expand...
Who said anything about running a NAOMI on these E2s?

As far as I can tell the only time NAOMI was mentioned at all was someone running it on a Windy, which IS a JVS cab.

these people are having issues running JAMMA boards.

Dont get me wrong. I'm all for keeping original equipment but making straw-man arguments isn't helping to create a solution for those with problematic PSUs.
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It's not a straw man argument when Candy Cabs in general are in high demand and folks want the majority of their collection to work in them.

Problematic PSUs are problematic. However, do not forget we are also connecting 15-20+ year old PCBs into them that are aged on top of the PSUs themselves. In many cases, drawing more power than they use to when they were new and the hours of stress they have had on them.

It's not a straw man argument when I encourage ppl to do what they require for their needs while at the same time going the extra mile to make proper adapters to retain factory wiring.

Moonwalker is notoriously known to draw more power from being stressed due to age and its component for example. My original Raiden checkpoint ver. pcb is the same way.

So I think you are misinterpreting my statement @twistedsymphony:

Do what you need to do for what you want to run, just do it properly without hacking up cabinet wiring.
 
ReplicaX said:
Do what you need to do for what you want to run, just do it properly without hacking up cabinet wiring.
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In fact, that is why I asked the question originally regarding the connectors and dug up the info to fashion a proper harness. I want to keep it OG as possible. No hacking. Adapting is the aim. I am sure everyone else in the group buy does as well.

.....meh, it's Christmas time. Plus, I have too much love and respect for this place. Apologies for my behavior.
 
my comment wasn’t directed at anyone and it probably is pointless to point out that the egret 2 PSU, when working properly, is fit for its intended purpose. The fact the many have been running for years in an arcade environment is proof of that. Im sorry if I’ve caused offence or pissed anyone off.

I only commented as the PSU shouldn’t need to be replaced, unless something is wrong. Obviously people can do whatever they want.

Naomi draws a lot from the 3.3v line, that’s the problem. It’s easily fixed with an additional or replacement PSU. I’ll stop posting as this isn’t a tech section and no one is asking for any help.
 
twistedsymphony said:
Who said anything about running a NAOMI on these E2s?
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It's in acblunden2's post, so he did?

acblunden2 said:
I have extra CPS2 and NAOMI boards, so what the heck, I plugged them in. SFA in attract mode doesn't show the character sprites. All the backgrounds, overlays, SFX are there. MvC2 gets just past the Capcom logo as the music starts to wind up and gets stuck in an infinite loops.
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markedkiller78 said:
my comment wasn’t directed at anyone and it probably is pointless to point out that the egret 2 PSU, when working properly, is fit for its intended purpose. The fact the many have been running for years in an arcade environment is proof of that. Im sorry if I’ve caused offence or pissed anyone off.

I only commented as the PSU shouldn’t need to be replaced, unless something is wrong. Obviously people can do whatever they want.
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I think the thing is that things are wrong. Six? E2 have found homes already from this buy, three of which had flat dead PSU's (Hatsune Mike, 8bit, and me) and one won't power a CPS2 board (Acblunden2).

I have another E2, it runs most things just fine. I think I have 2 JAMMA boards it won't play nicely with. I don't have the Capcom IO but I do have the one Taito sold as an option for the E2, and it works just fine with Naomi.

Every cab sees different amounts of use during its lifetime and it's not odd for people to have had different experiences with the same equipment across a couple of decades.
 
Seeing the psu only use 2 simple header. Can I enlist someone to route me a pcb to make psu adapter for a standard Happ psu like the one sold by arcadeshop?
 
twistedsymphony said:
Who said anything about running a NAOMI on these E2s?

As far as I can tell the only time NAOMI was mentioned at all was someone running it on a Windy, which IS a JVS cab.

these people are having issues running JAMMA boards.

Dont get me wrong. I'm all for keeping original equipment but making straw-man arguments isn't helping to create a solution for those with problematic PSUs.
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I did connect a NAOMI using the Capcom I/O with a MvC2 cart to the E2 in my tests. That should have worked. The CPS2 that I connected also should have worked. But neither did. Hatsune Mike mentions even his NOS stock PSU has issues with many of his boards. We all know about Moonwalker. ReplicaX says he had issues with a low number of his boards when he was an owner. And seems that the the E2's PSU is problematic enough for FrancoB and this eBay seller to have fashioned harnesses allowing owners to use alternate PSU's.

Discussion of the E2 PSU being problematic seems to violate dogma. unleashing anti-bodies. Suggestion of replacing with an alternative PSU, even with info that allows for preservation of the rest of the cab, sets off a call for the launch codes.

But you're right; arguments aren' helping. This group buy has been a great example of members getting together to help each other out. Man, XeD fronted thousands to get that container here. Cereth and Derick2k lent resources. sprayk helping me unload. rewrite and theoddtech doing the loading onto Cereth's truck as my heel was hurting. Even 300wins in answering my texts about the NNC's monitor and he had no part of the group buy. I'm getting back to the helping part.
XeD said:
Seeing the psu only use 2 simple header. Can I enlist someone to route me a pcb to make psu adapter for a standard Happ psu like the one sold by arcadeshop?
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Arcadeshop's adapter requires the AC line to be spliced in. Also, not everyone will use a Happ PSU as an alternative. I think it would be better to fab something up like this one. Keeps the wiring all OEM. Parts posted here.

Thanks for all you've done on this XeD. Clearly, you are a good dude.
 
I was involved in several Killercabs & Arcade Otaku imports and have seen inside more E2's than I care to mention.

There are at least 3 different PSU's used in the E2.

1) An open framed Taito badged one - this is OK provided the caps are in good condition otherwise voltages can be a bit unstable.
2) an enclosed Tatio badged one - this is the best version and is more than powerful enough to run a Naomi.
3) A Wei Ya thing - this is the same unit as in the AWSD and some E3's and it OK provided you run it at 100VAC on a clean supply, otherwise it's a pile of wobbly crap.

There were also some "Hybrid" E2's where the rotate mechanism was missing and a couple where it looked like it was an AWSD inside an E2 shell (including the cheap tri-sync monitor).

The cables on the neck-board are a PITA even with the rotate mechanism. I always ended up disconnecting the neck-board prior to rotating the tube just to be on the safe side. TBH it only saves your back from the weight, it's still quite possible to kill your chassis/tube even with the mechanism.

If you're struggling to get a PSU try to source a Sanwa "SWN-JVS" PSU.
 
@acblunden2 already mentioned getting a Peter Chou. Which if you can get your hands on one, I highly recommend them over HAPP and most definitely stay away from Ming Dong PSUs.

When E3s were coming in on the West Coast years ago at a steady rate, many were having huge issues with the stock Wei-ya PSUs on the 3.3v rail. To which I was advocating using recapped Sun PSUs with a proper harness. We have just come to the point where any CRT cab coming over nowadays is gonna be pretty rough and have some issues due to age, hours run, and it being a CRT. The exception maybe being some NNCs.

The Sanwa "SWN-JVS" PSU @penrhos mentioned is also a great PSU if you can get your hands on them from YAJ and such.
 
I think it was @nem who stated it but definitely stay way from Min Dong, they are terrible. Sanwa also makes a switching psu that’s less expensive than the Swn jvs. It’s pretty common on YAJ.
 
If many JAMMA boards are under the power supply's (undocumented) minimum load, and consequently it is unable to reach 5.00V, then I don't care how good it is at delivering a consistent 5V rail when at the correct load. If it isn't able to do its job properly for the games it is ostensibly designed to play, then the trash is where it belongs. To swing by 0.9V without a load is pretty extreme. What would you do with an entirely CMOS-based board with multiple processors that may or may not be active at all times? Just accept a swinging voltage?

I should note that these observations are for the open-frame style power supply. I do not have measurement data for the closed-frame power supply found in older Egret II cabinets. The only data I have on them is the broken one that came with my other Egret II.

Hearing about many of owners who aren't bothered doesn't instill any confidence in the power supplies. There are happy owners of Blue Elf JAMMA boards, GBS RGB to VGA adapters, and other mediocre items. Just because people do not recognize a potential problem doesn't give it a pass.
 
Looks like this group buy has brought a lot of users to alberto1225, enlisting him to make repro panels. In some cases, more than one panel for a single cab. If that is the case, might it best to have each panel have its own separate harness to make the switch easy? Of course, you would have to have joysticks and buttons populated for each panel if doing so. Any value in posting the Mouser links to the connectors to make harnesses, or is that covered elsewhere on the Net?

Also, regarding my NNC and setting it up for JAMMA without using a JVS->JAMMA convertor (to avoid the high cost and lag). Seems the JAMMA loom solutions produced forces the user to use one standard or another at all times. The panel mount connectors are bypassed entirely. Switching between the two standards requires physical reconnection of wiring. I am sure that is a hassle.

View attachment 15112

I have laying around an OEM Sega harnesses.

View attachment 15113

After looking at the connectors on this harness all terminated already, it becomes readily apparent that all I have to do to make it dovetail right into the NNC cab is to make 2-way splitters for each one of these connections:
Is that how you used your harness @PascalP? Or did you re-terminate the harness and by-passed the panel mount?
 
@acblunden2 haven’t checked all the individual numbers you listed but it sounds about right, I just used a lot of connectors I had in my scrap bin + the ones already on the harness.
So it plugged it inbetween the OEM cab wiring and had Jamma in parallel to JVS.

From memory the ones you have to change completely to JST NH 9p is the coin/service connector

For audio I wired the mono Jamma to both channels of a high/low convertor to give me RCA out
 
I'll make it work @PascalP. Will keep you all updated. Thanks!

FYI, since the NNC is my first tri-sync monitor, I hypothesized the monitor should be able sync up to console SCART 15khz RGB without an RGB amp. Pulled out the Sync Strike, the PS2, the requisite SCART cable, plugged it in right to the VGA/RCA connections, and voila! Looks great for 480i. No need to build an RGB amp circuit for this cab. SCART RGB is nice and contrasty. I could hear audible clicking from the chassis as it was syncing up from one menu screen to another. A little scary, but should be fine.

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hi if my windy psu is dead what can I do? Rewrite is going to storage tomorrow finally. So is there anything he can do in the mean time. To get cab running to see what's wrong with it.
 
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