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@Darksoft even tho I'm standing on the reservation list at saveyourgames.it .... is there any reason why you are not selling it directly? I'd rather have the money go right to you than through a distributor.
 
hehehe where do you think I can add more value? Packing boxes or designing cool arcade stuff?

I would love to do it myself but sometimes you just can't.
 
How do I get on the waiting list for a CPS2 multi? This thing just looks too awesome!
You can pre-order from Paradise Arcade if you are in the US. Update your profile with your location in case you are out of the US and others can help you further.
Were you referring to the "notify me" option on Paradise? It wouldn't let me add to cart because of the stock being listed as out. Thanks for the help in advance.
 
Awesome, thank you. I filled out the "notify me" section on Paradise Arcade. Is this what you were referring to? I wasn't able to add to the cart because it says there is not enough stock. I am located in San Diego, CA. Thank you for the help so far, I really think it's awesome that the community makes such sweet products.
Just as good I suppose. I could have swore I saw that you were able to pre-order last week. I must have misread the description. In either case, the last batch of CPS2 Multi's lasted about a month before they ran out of stock. Sales are brisk, but the arcade market overall is still niche. I wouldn't solely rely on that notification. Check everyday and you should score one. I am waiting on the kit myself. Missed the last batch by less than a day since I was budgeting myself thinking the CPS3 repro cart would come out and fly off the shelf before I could get one. Oh wells. Darksoft's stuff is always worth the wait.
 
We all want to buy straight from you D, but like you said, rather have you use your time making cool arcade stuff instead packing and mailing stuff.


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I had a chance to get one in early 2015, but I had just got my Supergun, didn't have an A or B board yet, and didn't even have a six button control setup yet. I was using a MVS with a modded Neo Geo stick at the time. It had to be ordered through a European site at the time. Should have got it then, but you know...could have, should have, would have, etc type things don't help you in the present moment. Will definitely keep my eyes peeled on Paradise to order when possible.
 
everyday ? ... I'm checking this forum 5 times everyday for it !
LoLoLoL! Once it comes back in stock, it will be available for about 4 weeks before stock is gone again. That was the trend with the last two batches. Once a day is good enough. Just make sure you have your milk money ready. Darksoft products aren't nearly as painful to wait for and ultimately lose out on as like let's say, the GDemu.

Personally, I think it is correct that stock is kept low Darksoft's projects.
  1. Excess inventory is a liability. We want Darksoft to keep on producing his wonderful products.
  2. Low stock equals increased demand. Darksoft has to turn a profit for his efforts. They can't all be labors of love.
  3. Allows him to work on other projects. Neo Geo multi, Taito F3 Multi, Deco Multi.
 
I had a chance to get one in early 2015, but I had just got my Supergun, didn't have an A or B board yet, and didn't even have a six button control setup yet. I was using a MVS with a modded Neo Geo stick at the time. It had to be ordered through a European site at the time. Should have got it then, but you know...could have, should have, would have, etc type things don't help you in the present moment. Will definitely keep my eyes peeled on Paradise to order when possible.
Herein lays a good lesson for arcade collectors. For instance, Killer Instinct is one of my favorite arcade games ever. The board is difficult to get without ridiculous markup. A full cab is impossible. You have to piece it together. I worked out a trade for my empty NFL Blitz cab for an empty KI cab which will be delivered in two weeks. Then patiently awaited a deal for the board. As fate would have it, I just got a deal on the board which was delivered yesterday ahead of the pending trade for the cab.

Don't hesitate in this hobby. Prices increase every day. Darksoft's products remain static in price; availability is what goes up and down. Get Darksoft's products as soon as they are available. Then hold out for a deal on the requisite arcade hardware.

DISCLAIMER: No, I don't work for Darksoft or Mitsurugi-w. Just got a crash-Harvard-education in the arcade hobby after going from zero cabs to about 25 cabs in the last 10 months.
 
DISCLAIMER: No, I don't work for Darksoft or Mitsurugi-w. Just got a crash-Harvard-education in the arcade hobby after going from zero cabs to about 25 cabs in the last 10 months.
I'd say the check is in the mail but we'll just credit it towards the balance on your Darksoft Credit Card.
 
Will definitely be picking up all the Darksoft stuff as soon as I see chances in the future. I was still very new to the arcade stuff at the time, so I didn't realize that it wasn't all ready available like a lot of the console stuff is. I love the hobby and glad I found it. The community is amazing! I've never seen one quite so tight nit and helpful to each other, you guys seriously kick butt.
 
I am so late to the party on this but I am ready to dive in when the next batch of kits are ready, I left My name and number at the webstore to be notified when they are in.

In the meantime I would love advice and links as to where I can get my hands on the right hardware.

My understanding from watching the video over at the paradise web store is that I need a rev 5, 6 or 7 CPS2 "B" board and if it does not have the correct pal chip someone there sells them for about $7 . They said the board should be a suicide battery board but that makes me worry that if I buy a board that isn't working , how do I know that the reason it does not work is JUST due to the suicide issue ??

I know it's sort of a purist thing but I feel more comfortable getting a working board and then just kill it but maybe folks here can guide me to where I can lay my hands on everything I need at a cheap price so I can save my money to spend on the kit and have a board with the least amount of soldering possible ... I'm ok with doing the jumpers but anything beyond that may be a bit much as I'm not good with tiny close up work

Please help a late-to-the-party newbie and while you're at it, tell me about any other arcade kits like this (not all in one boards that use emulation) I'm very interested in this for my arcade cabinet which is awaiting the MVS multicart as of tonight when I installed it in my JAMMA cab just hours ago

I'm so stoked for this,
Please Help me!
 
You might not get much help from people here by saying you want to kill a working board. There are lots of collectors who would like to own them. Non-working boards are cheaper as well. Just keep looking and you will find one. In the mean time go buy the Sega ST-V multi cart while you still can...

:D
 
Well ... tbh, considering that you can now revive those boards to their original state...
Afaik you can't tell the difference to an untouched board compared to a revived anymore.
 
That does not really answer my question that led me to saying I feel like I might be better off getting a working board because how would a seller know if the dead board was only dead due to the battery issue ? What if other problems also keep it from working ? Unless the seller owned the board and didn't get it in some estate sale or junk auction how would they know ? Most sellers on eBay don't take the time to list even readily available details like the board revision or which chips it has, let alone test a dead board to see if it works other than the battery.

I def don't mean any offense if someone here doesn't want me to kill a good board for whatever reason, I'm fine with that , I don't "want" to, especially since, as you said, it will most likely cost more, but please then point me to where I can get a suitable dead one or I won't really feel guilty for doing it, especially if it can be recovered anyway (according to the last post)

I'd really like to find one that will have the least amount of fiddling. i.e. : no delicate soldering other than the jumpers

I have been playing my Neo Geo MVS all night long since I connected it and I have to say I've never enjoyed it more. When I bought this consolized MVS w/ 2.0 unibios and have connected the AVS arcade sticks to it, I maybe played it for an hour or two and then packed it up, patting myself on the back for such a cool addition to my extensive collection but THIS ... Is cool and the idea that the MVS multi cart is coming out has revitalized my interest in real arcade hardware, which previously had been one aspect of the hobby I didn't indulge myself beyond just MAME only.

Finding this forum from a post someone made over at AtariAge has totally blown my mind. To think I could have two thirds of KAWAKS emulator on REAL hardware is fucking amazing to me.
image.jpeg
This is truly an awesome era for the hobby.
 
saveyourgame should have stock in 3 weeks. Stay tuned for more.
though I don't know Italian, it looks like saveyourgame has some in stock now. Should I email them, or is paradise getting another batch at some point? Thanks!
 
Regarding ordering at saveyourgames...
I'm a little worried about ordering this overseas. The euro to dollar conversion rate aside, I'm not in a huge hurry. Will the USA based paradise store be getting more in stock anytime in 2016-2017 ?

I can wait patiently if so, otherwise I'll drop 280 euros over there in Italy

Let me know and thanks!!
 
That does not really answer my question that led me to saying I feel like I might be better off getting a working board because how would a seller know if the dead board was only dead due to the battery issue ? What if other problems also keep it from working ? Unless the seller owned the board and didn't get it in some estate sale or junk auction how would they know ? Most sellers on eBay don't take the time to list even readily available details like the board revision or which chips it has, let alone test a dead board to see if it works other than the battery.

I def don't mean any offense if someone here doesn't want me to kill a good board for whatever reason, I'm fine with that , I don't "want" to, especially since, as you said, it will most likely cost more, but please then point me to where I can get a suitable dead one or I won't really feel guilty for doing it, especially if it can be recovered anyway (according to the last post)

I'd really like to find one that will have the least amount of fiddling. i.e. : no delicate soldering other than the jumpers

I have been playing my Neo Geo MVS all night long since I connected it and I have to say I've never enjoyed it more. When I bought this consolized MVS w/ 2.0 unibios and have connected the AVS arcade sticks to it, I maybe played it for an hour or two and then packed it up, patting myself on the back for such a cool addition to my extensive collection but THIS ... Is cool and the idea that the MVS multi cart is coming out has revitalized my interest in real arcade hardware, which previously had been one aspect of the hobby I didn't indulge myself beyond just MAME only.

Finding this forum from a post someone made over at AtariAge has totally blown my mind. To think I could have two thirds of KAWAKS emulator on REAL hardware is fucking amazing to me.
image.jpeg
This is truly an awesome era for the hobby.
To answer your question - the easiest way to tell a suicided board is that it will boot to a solid colour screen (depending on game can be red, blue, green, white etc.) but it is a solid colour and nothing else. CPS2 is fairly reliable (at least in my experience) and I'd argue you'd be pretty safe buying a board that boots, but to a solid colour. The risk really is that the battery has leaked and caused damage to the board which is definitely possible, but if you ask for pictures of the board from the seller before you buy it or if you're buying it locally look at it yourself you can take away the risk of a battery leak and the associated damage.

Don't kill B boards. Although they can be revived with the original code now, if they're still running and the battery can be replaced on a working board, sell that or trade it to someone for a non working board. I'm one of the people who collects boards running on original code/battery (I have 6 at the moment) and I generally sell off any suicided boards once I revive them with the decrypted code (though now I'll be reviving properly with a battery if that's the preference of the buyer) - and I've kept a suicided board here specifically for the CPS2 multi when it comes back into stock (I'm on the saveyourgames waiting list) :)

tl;dr - please don't kill working original boards. Sell it and buy a suicided one.

In answer to your other question - I think any -7 board will have the settings you need already without the need for you to solder/desolder any jumpers. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. A Google search will also find you a list of which games use which PALs so you can try to find a board with a G PAL already included (Mitsurugi-W posted this information on another site but I don't want to link it just in case), though this isn't really necessary since it's very cheap to purchase a replacement.
 
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