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DARKSOFT Taito F3. Instructions and videos.

Thanks for feedback and sorry to hear that. I'll push them to get it changed asap.
 
Darksoft said:
Thanks for feedback and sorry to hear that. I'll push them to get it changed asap.
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Worth noting that while people have said it's too thin, it's the material that's too thin, it's not too small of a box dimensions-wise. The cardboard used barely keeps a box shape on its own :/.
 
Noted. I already talked to them and told them to change for a thicker more robust cardboard.
 
aoiddr said:
But yeah, when I put the Taito F3 in a cab, the color is often wrong and the picture is way to the right. Definitely the weirdest of boards when it comes to adjustments.
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Same here, although the colors look good, but the picture is smaller and way to the right.

This on my Nanao MS8-29 in a SEGA Astro City.

But I'm a lazy ass and don't want to mingle with the monitor settings everytime, so as long the entire picture is shown and not cut I'll just leave it as it is.
 
This is perfect!! I just got it today!!! Thanks a ton Darksoft, I wish I had the cash to get one spare. Just so amazing!!! Will test it tomorrow, I dont have a Micro SD adaptor tonight.
 
Mine is shifted to the right in both my Polo/3 and BVM. In the BVM it's something I can correct in the monitor settings, in the Polo/3 the shift is too much for the controls to correct.

In a B&O MX7000 RGB Television, the image is perfectly centered.
 
deibit said:
In a B&O MX7000 RGB Television, the image is perfectly centered.
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is this a digital CRT (with on-screen adjustments?) they generally have code to find the image boundaries and adjust accordingly automatically.

I'd suspect the later Nanao Tri-Syncs and WG D9200 monitors would do the same.

On my E29 with a MS8-29 monitor I typically have to make minor adjustments whenever I swap PCBs if I want the image perfectly centered. In most cases though, it's not bad enough to bother.

I'm curious how different the offset will be from the Gnet since I believe that one tends to sit to the right as well.
 
The MX7000 can be digitally adjusted from the service menu yes. But I don't have to do that with the f3, it's just centered in the "default" setting.

I can manage to center the G-Net image in my Polo/3 without problems, but with the F3 I loose around 2cm when I adjust it to the maximum. It's bad for my Karma but once you play you forget about it :)
 
deibit said:
The MX7000 can be digitally adjusted from the service menu yes. But I don't have to do that with the f3, it's just centered in the "default" setting.
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right, what I meant was if you have an onscreen menu that's an indication that the display is "digital", which also means that it probably has auto-adjustment capability with no input needed by you.

My PVM never needs any adjustment since it automatically detects when the signal is off-center and adjusts it without any interaction.
 
The B&O has a digital onscreen menu but i don't think it has autoadjustement.. there are small shifts here and there depending on which console I use.

By the way, I also thought that my BVM20F1 did some "magic" because of it'ss ability to sync and center "everything"... until I tried with the F3 and then reality popped up :D
 
F3 really messes with the OSSC scaler, in fact I couldn't get it working period.
xRGB mini is fine with it, and the Taito scaler has a preset for it (won't sync using other presets however).

I think as far as video modes go, F3 just has wacky front/back porch values (hence the strange centering on some displays and problems with scalers).
 
jassin000 said:
F3 really messes with the OSSC scaler, in fact I couldn't get it working period.
xRGB mini is fine with it, and the Taito scaler has a preset for it (won't sync using other presets however).

I think as far as video modes go, F3 just has wacky front/back porch values (hence the strange centering on some displays and problems with scalers).
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Could you please tell me what settings you have changed to get the f3 working with the mini?
I have no problem on my bvm, on my pvm the image is shifted to the right but I can't play f3 game in my scalers dvdo and ossc does not sync and the mini has a vertical shacking image..

Any help is really appreciated
Thank you in advance :)
 
I'm using RGB's sync regeneration circuit (included on the HAS v3) with the F3 and xRGB mini.
I think that's the trick to stabilizing the shaky image, but I would have to go back and test (turn it off) again to be sure.

OSSC I just can't get it to work at all, with the DVDO and without (directly connected to my OLED that syncs everything else on the planet).

Honestly, and I guess it stands to reason... The best scaler for the Taito F3 IS the Taito JAMMA kit.
 
jassin000 said:
I'm using RGB's sync regeneration circuit (included on the HAS v3) with the F3 and xRGB mini.
I think that's the trick to stabilizing the shaky image, but I would have to go back and test (turn it off) again to be sure.
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Interesting, I wonder if something like that would fix the screen shake I get on my older PVM using RGB out in 480i from my Gamecube.
 
I forgot to mention before that the way I managed to use the F3 with the MX7000 is by setting the sync regeneration switch in the HAS.

Without sync regeneration, I can't manage to get vertical sync (the same happens with my CPS3 and the same monitor)
 
deibit said:
forgot to mention before that the way I managed to use the F3 with the MX7000 is by setting the sync regeneration switch in the HAS.
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Yup same for me, I think this nails it then.

Set the regeneration switch to ON (and buy a HAS v3 if you haven't already). :)
 
Looks like I got lucky. I finished up my region mod and the multi fired up the first time! Thanks for another awesome product and I can't wait to see what's next!
 
The only way to get it to work on the Framemeister is to use the sync regeneration circuit on the HAS.
 
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