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Home Arcade System

Yes, the screw terminals, thank you.

As for the wires, why not just a thicker one?
What's their AWG, BTW?

(Sorry for the questions, just trying to understand the choices made.)
 
It's high quality 18awg wire, probably capable of carrying somewhere between 7.5 amps and 10 amps.

The JST connector can carry 10 amps per pin. Use two wires and you're covered for 20 amps which is perfect, leaves you with room to spare. Better to over engineer than under engineer.

Not many board to wire connectors will handle much more than that, without being restrictively oversized.

This is what you need to consider, sure you could use a lower gauge wire but it still needs to pass through a connector, pins, the PCB etc. It's wise to distribute this along multiple paths.
 
Ok it's me being a little cautious with the happ 15 power supply. Do I leave it a the 115v since I'm in the U.S. sounds like a dumb question to me. But just wanting to be 100% Sure, not try to fry my H.A.S by mistake lol
 
Yea 115v setting if you have switchable, if you want to be really really sure double check the wire terminals are correct.
5v, -5v, 12v, ground, match each color wire with the voltage printed on the bottom of the HAS.
 
@Frank_fjs - Thanks, for your input! That's indeed 18AWG (real one, not a thin wire masked by thick insulation).

The PSU harness for the HAS is 40-50cm long, for a longer one (over 1 meter) I recommend to use 2x16AWG, just in case.
 
Ok. So I am having issues with a pcb and I've never had this issue with any other pcb. I have a Sega System E pcb with Transformer installed. The start buttons and the transform and fire buttons are all stuck on when I use it with the HAS. If I try to use a Saturn controller with the adapter then the directions are also stuck on. If I unplug the Saturn controller and just use a Neo Geo controller the directions work. But even with no controllers attached the four buttons are always stuck on.

If I use this pcb with a different supergun (MAS Super Nova) it works 100% fine.

Any ideas.
 
@Mitsurugi-w Any chance you could measure voltage on the button inputs (JAMMA side) with the HAS when no buttons are pressed, and when you press the buttons. Also, do the same with the MAS. The outputs from the microcontroller on the HAS and the Sega Saturn adapter are configured as open drain.
 
Well I'm more concerned about the start buttons and the other two buttons being stuck on even when no controller is attached.

It's only on this pcb. Every other pcb works correctly. What type of voltage reading should I be seeing?
 
No idea with that PCB, that's what I'd like to see :) I'm not familiar with this PCB, but it's pretty old, what chips handle the buttons on the PCB game itself?

Ok, I can see it's not even JAMMA, what adapter do you use for it?
 
The button inputs all flow through a series of TLP521-4 optocouplers and then flows to a custom and some TTLs. I thought the pcb was bad so Apocalypse and I started tracing the signal back and could not find any issues. Shotgunned a few parts just for the hell of it and no change. After thinking the fact the Saturn controller issue may be pointing at something I decided to try my old simple yet faithful MAS supergun and it works great over there.

I did remove the two optos that controlled the four stuck inputs and while removed they were no longer closed. But when putting brand new optos in the issue returned.

I'm using a JAMMA adapter that was sent to me with it. Wires from the two connectors to a JAMMA fingerboard. I've already verified that the wires are in the correct places and there are no shorts.
 
I'll try to find the Sega System E instruction manual, or ideally some schematics to see what's going on there. Another thing that comes mind that is different in the MAS (besides the use of the microcontroller) is that it probably connects GND to pins #e and #27 on the JAMMA connector, wheres the HAS uses those as the duplicated button 6 output for the Pandora's Box PCBs. Try joining those two pins with the GND on the HAS side, unless that Sega System E to JAMMA adapter already does that.

One more measurement - resistance between the button input and +5V on the Sega System E (the PCB mustn't be connected to anything). Perhaps it would require external pull-ups.

One more edit: It's the octocoupler, so most likely there will be no pull-up at all on the PCB game end, the button input will be connected directly to the octocoupler. If that is the case, please put a 1-2K resistor between button input and +5V. Of course the easiest way would be to do that on the JAMMA adapter you have, or the HAS; don't do it on the PCB game.

I couldn't find the Sega System E schematics. What is the value of the current limiting resistor used for the octocouplers? Usually that's around 220-470R.
 
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RGB said:
I'll try to find the Sega System E instruction manual, or ideally some schematics to see what's going on there. Another thing that comes mind that is different in the MAS (besides the use of the microcontroller) is that it probably connects GND to pins #e and #27 on the JAMMA connector, wheres the HAS uses those as the duplicated button 6 output for the Pandora's Box PCBs. Try joining those two pins with the GND on the HAS side, unless that Sega System E to JAMMA adapter already does that.

One more measurement - resistance between the button input and +5V on the Sega System E (the PCB mustn't be connected to anything). Perhaps it would require external pull-ups.

One more edit: It's the octocoupler, so most likely there will be no pull-up at all on the PCB game end, the button input will be connected directly to the octocoupler. If that is the case, please put a 1-2K resistor between button input and +5V. Of course the easiest way would be to do that on the JAMMA adapter you have, or the HAS; don't do it on the PCB game.

I couldn't find the Sega System E schematics. What is the value of the current limiting resistor used for the octocouplers? Usually that's around 220-470R.
Click to expand...
Might be a few days but I'll try all of this and check back.
 
The wait was worth it,works great!
E6562A78-63E2-4CBC-8804-82EF4C599D4E.jpeg
 
RGB said:
From my experience, the diagonal interference usually (but not always) comes from the PSU.
Click to expand...
THIS little piece of information should be noted and noted well! I probably wasted 6 months of upscaler development because some boards had scrolling horizontal jailbar thingies - I may do a proper post or video on it, but it turned out to be the PSU. Replace the PSU and rock solid crisp image, so issue was totally unrelated to my upscaler.
 
invzim said:
RGB said:
From my experience, the diagonal interference usually (but not always) comes from the PSU.
Click to expand...
THIS little piece of information should be noted and noted well! I probably wasted 6 months of upscaler development because some boards had scrolling horizontal jailbar thingies - I may do a proper post or video on it, but it turned out to be the PSU. Replace the PSU and rock solid crisp image, so issue was totally unrelated to my upscaler.
Click to expand...
* Consider RGB's warning in the next post before following my example

This can be remedied with an easy fix, at least in the case of the SUZO Happ Power Pro (see image below). Here's an excerpt from my recent troubleshooting post detailing the issue and fix:

Rolling Diagonal Video Interference

With the CPS2 side of the equation working as expected I was now going to tackle the slight video interference I noticed both when playing on my PVM and via OSSC. I double checked that my video and power lines were separated. I re-examined all of my PSU wiring. Eventually I hit Google and discovered a solution. Other arcade users had noted that the Suzo Happ PSUs (or at least the ones they had access too) didn't bridge Earth Ground and AC Ground within the case. Suspecting the same was true for mine, I crimped a new wire across the two ground points on my PSU and was delighted to see that it completely eliminated the interference I had witnessed. bridge_ground.jpg

Original thread: My Experience Troubleshooting Darksoft CPS2, HAS 3.2, and Suzo Happ PSU
 
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It's a more complicated topic:


He talks about the oscilloscope, but the rules apply to all equipment really.

If bridging Earth Ground with COM works, that's fine, but you really need to understand what you are doing.
 
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