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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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A Sun PSU should work. From the Windy II in my possession, it had the same PCB connectors as a Sun PSU. You'll have to rewire the AC and the connector that powers the JVS I/O. You should look to repair it though. Might be a fuse if there is one in your Windy II PSU. Sadly, I can't look at it now. But PSU's are the easiest electronic component in a cab to repair (I know, I know, you're in paradise and soldering electronics is punishable by death out there :thumbsup: )

FYI, I did test voltages on the Windy II in my possession before I plugged in the Naomi, after some adjustment, I got perfect 3.3v and 5v. 12v was a bit over, but that wasn't a big deal.
 
The PSU is fine on the Windy (not sure why anyone thought otherwise). Gets proper voltages with and without load.

The cab doesn't do anything though... No audio, no video (the monitor does static up).


As for the E2s, they're both up and running with lovely monitors thanks to @XeD, @300wins, and a big personal thank you to @radiantsvgun.


So current statuses are:
E2s fully working.
Q25 fully working.
Domy Theater has a 100% dead monitor.
Windy doesn't display any picture or make any sounds but gets proper output from the PSU.
 
The PSU is fine on the Windy (not sure why anyone thought otherwise). Gets proper voltages with and without load.

The cab doesn't do anything though... No audio, no video (the monitor does static up).


As for the E2s, they're both up and running with lovely monitors thanks to @XeD, @300wins, and a big personal thank you to @radiantsvgun.


So current statuses are:
E2s fully working.
Q25 fully working.
Domy Theater has a 100% dead monitor.
Windy doesn't display any picture or make any sounds but gets proper output from the PSU.
Can't say enough about how happy I am the Q25 works. Really wish I wasn't working 70+hrs a week and had finished off my cap lists for the chassis and PSU for you. As now that it works, I highly recommend you change those out.

My Q25 is now permanently off til I cap the PSU and Monitor as its showing the signs. Not gonna risk it, til its capped.

Windy 2, I'd really check all the wiring on it and I/O connections as having no sound is odd. Also see if you are even getting a B+ on that chassis.

Domy, that truly sucks. Do you think the chassis is salvageable for repair, otherwise how does the tube look overall?
 
Can't say enough about how happy I am the Q25 works. Really wish I wasn't working 70+hrs a week and had finished off my cap lists for the chassis and PSU for you. As now that it works, I highly recommend you change those out.

My Q25 is now permanently off til I cap the PSU and Monitor as its showing the signs. Not gonna risk it, til its capped.

Windy 2, I'd really check all the wiring on it and I/O connections as having no sound is odd. Also see if you are even getting a B+ on that chassis.

Domy, that truly sucks. Do you think the chassis is salvageable for repair, otherwise how does the tube look overall?
No worries at all. I'll get around to it myself if you don't. The monitor looks 10/10, so I'm not even sure it needs it yet, but it never hurts to know the last time it was done!

Domy - Well, the chassis looks okay at a glance, and since Yaton had a few other non-working Domys, I'm hoping he can cobble together a working chassis. I may take a shot at recapping and seeing what happens if I can find the time to pull it and get a list going. The tube looks A-Okay, it's just not getting any power. IT HAS GIANT HANDLES ON IT FOR SPINNING IT!

Windy 2 - It struck me as odd too, but I tried every combination of RCA plugs in the cab with no luck. Same with the RGB connectors. The chassis is getting some sort of signal, because if you plug in one of the RGB connectors attached to it you can hear the pitch of the monitor whine change, if you know what I mean? I've never dealt with a Windy before, so I'm a little lost. It has 4x the wires as anything else, ha. Reminds me of the Cyberlead.

Maybe the audio amp is dead, and thus no sound?
 
I am thinking of drumming up a PCB that can be screwed in to a Happ power supply with no soldering, and has the Egret 2 power connectors on it, to make a plug and play design for swapping out the PSU. No cab hacking or manual adapter building. If I get these together it'll probably be cheap to make 10-20 of them, in which case I'll offer them up here.
 
I had my doubts! Man, that cab must weigh a ton.
It's nicely balanced though, so it's not too hard to move around. It's largely empty inside actually. Just a giant, empty metal housing for one huge monitor, ha.
 
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Is there any one supply that satisfies the needs for both Jamma and Jvs with voltage adjustment? I know the blast city’s pay does. Any modern replacements?
 
does anybody have any idea why my windy doesn't turn on and just does static do Windy's have a safety switch like the blast do they have a switch for the 15 Hertz 24 Hertz
 
does anybody have any idea why my windy doesn't turn on and just does static do Windy's have a safety switch like the blast do they have a switch for the 15 Hertz 24 Hertz
Resolution isn't the issue. If it was then you'd see a doubled image on the screen.

Safety switch would keep the entire cab from coming on. Also not the problem unfortunately.
 
What PCB did you test the Windy II with rewrite? I am thinking it is something silly like the pot on the flyback is turned down or something. Doesn't explain the audio, but I am thinking there it is something simple as well.
 
Tested with one of the Mr Driller games. Can't remember if it's 1 or 2, but the one that can be used over JVS or JAMMA.

No adapter in the cab, so I'm using JVS. The game works here at home before and after, so I can at least rule that out.
 
You might have an old laptop laying around with a VGA connector. Set the output resolution on the laptop to 640x480 and see if you get video just to test the monitor.
 
@rewrite

Updating my Q25 thread now.

Teaser:
Q25 Rotate Mech 1.jpg
 
Windy update:

Today the PSU is dead. The monitor gets voltage, but the JVS power connectors sit at 1.7-2.4v on all lines. I popped it open and it's visually fine.

I assume it was on its very last legs and turning it on this time killed it finally? May explain why it wasn't doing anything meaningful before?

Monitor:
Gets neck glow, statics up.

Not the original one. It has a completely different remote board. No dipswitch bank for resolution. So I assume it's not the original chassis either, if it doesn't need the dips to set resolution?

Speakers:
Messing with the volume pot does increase and decrease the static sound coming out of them if it's over ~70% volume. So they very likely work and that's a plus.
 
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