FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
I think the thing is that things are wrong. Six? E2 have found homes already from this buy, three of which had flat dead PSU's (Hatsune Mike, 8bit, and me) and one won't power a CPS2 board (Acblunden2).
I have another E2, it runs most things just fine. I think I have 2 JAMMA boards it won't play nicely with. I don't have the Capcom IO but I do have the one Taito sold as an option for the E2, and it works just fine with Naomi.
Every cab sees different amounts of use during its lifetime and it's not odd for people to have had different experiences with the same equipment across a couple of decades.
XeD
Grand Master
Seeing the psu only use 2 simple header. Can I enlist someone to route me a pcb to make psu adapter for a standard Happ psu like the one sold by arcadeshop?
I did connect a NAOMI using the Capcom I/O with a MvC2 cart to the E2 in my tests. That should have worked. The CPS2 that I connected also should have worked. But neither did. Hatsune Mike mentions even his NOS stock PSU has issues with many of his boards. We all know about Moonwalker. ReplicaX says he had issues with a low number of his boards when he was an owner. And seems that the the E2's PSU is problematic enough for FrancoB and this eBay seller to have fashioned harnesses allowing owners to use alternate PSU's.
Discussion of the E2 PSU being problematic seems to violate dogma. unleashing anti-bodies. Suggestion of replacing with an alternative PSU, even with info that allows for preservation of the rest of the cab, sets off a call for the launch codes.
But you're right; arguments aren' helping. This group buy has been a great example of members getting together to help each other out. Man, XeD fronted thousands to get that container here. Cereth and Derick2k lent resources. sprayk helping me unload. rewrite and theoddtech doing the loading onto Cereth's truck as my heel was hurting. Even 300wins in answering my texts about the NNC's monitor and he had no part of the group buy. I'm getting back to the helping part.
Arcadeshop's adapter requires the AC line to be spliced in. Also, not everyone will use a Happ PSU as an alternative. I think it would be better to fab something up like this one. Keeps the wiring all OEM. Parts posted here.
Thanks for all you've done on this XeD. Clearly, you are a good dude.
penrhos
Grand Master
I was involved in several Killercabs & Arcade Otaku imports and have seen inside more E2's than I care to mention.
There are at least 3 different PSU's used in the E2.
1) An open framed Taito badged one - this is OK provided the caps are in good condition otherwise voltages can be a bit unstable.
2) an enclosed Tatio badged one - this is the best version and is more than powerful enough to run a Naomi.
3) A Wei Ya thing - this is the same unit as in the AWSD and some E3's and it OK provided you run it at 100VAC on a clean supply, otherwise it's a pile of wobbly crap.
There were also some "Hybrid" E2's where the rotate mechanism was missing and a couple where it looked like it was an AWSD inside an E2 shell (including the cheap tri-sync monitor).
The cables on the neck-board are a PITA even with the rotate mechanism. I always ended up disconnecting the neck-board prior to rotating the tube just to be on the safe side. TBH it only saves your back from the weight, it's still quite possible to kill your chassis/tube even with the mechanism.
If you're struggling to get a PSU try to source a Sanwa "SWN-JVS" PSU.
There are at least 3 different PSU's used in the E2.
1) An open framed Taito badged one - this is OK provided the caps are in good condition otherwise voltages can be a bit unstable.
2) an enclosed Tatio badged one - this is the best version and is more than powerful enough to run a Naomi.
3) A Wei Ya thing - this is the same unit as in the AWSD and some E3's and it OK provided you run it at 100VAC on a clean supply, otherwise it's a pile of wobbly crap.
There were also some "Hybrid" E2's where the rotate mechanism was missing and a couple where it looked like it was an AWSD inside an E2 shell (including the cheap tri-sync monitor).
The cables on the neck-board are a PITA even with the rotate mechanism. I always ended up disconnecting the neck-board prior to rotating the tube just to be on the safe side. TBH it only saves your back from the weight, it's still quite possible to kill your chassis/tube even with the mechanism.
If you're struggling to get a PSU try to source a Sanwa "SWN-JVS" PSU.
ReplicaX
Grand Master
@acblunden2 already mentioned getting a Peter Chou. Which if you can get your hands on one, I highly recommend them over HAPP and most definitely stay away from Ming Dong PSUs.
When E3s were coming in on the West Coast years ago at a steady rate, many were having huge issues with the stock Wei-ya PSUs on the 3.3v rail. To which I was advocating using recapped Sun PSUs with a proper harness. We have just come to the point where any CRT cab coming over nowadays is gonna be pretty rough and have some issues due to age, hours run, and it being a CRT. The exception maybe being some NNCs.
The Sanwa "SWN-JVS" PSU @penrhos mentioned is also a great PSU if you can get your hands on them from YAJ and such.
When E3s were coming in on the West Coast years ago at a steady rate, many were having huge issues with the stock Wei-ya PSUs on the 3.3v rail. To which I was advocating using recapped Sun PSUs with a proper harness. We have just come to the point where any CRT cab coming over nowadays is gonna be pretty rough and have some issues due to age, hours run, and it being a CRT. The exception maybe being some NNCs.
The Sanwa "SWN-JVS" PSU @penrhos mentioned is also a great PSU if you can get your hands on them from YAJ and such.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Hatsune Mike
Champion
If many JAMMA boards are under the power supply's (undocumented) minimum load, and consequently it is unable to reach 5.00V, then I don't care how good it is at delivering a consistent 5V rail when at the correct load. If it isn't able to do its job properly for the games it is ostensibly designed to play, then the trash is where it belongs. To swing by 0.9V without a load is pretty extreme. What would you do with an entirely CMOS-based board with multiple processors that may or may not be active at all times? Just accept a swinging voltage?
I should note that these observations are for the open-frame style power supply. I do not have measurement data for the closed-frame power supply found in older Egret II cabinets. The only data I have on them is the broken one that came with my other Egret II.
Hearing about many of owners who aren't bothered doesn't instill any confidence in the power supplies. There are happy owners of Blue Elf JAMMA boards, GBS RGB to VGA adapters, and other mediocre items. Just because people do not recognize a potential problem doesn't give it a pass.
I should note that these observations are for the open-frame style power supply. I do not have measurement data for the closed-frame power supply found in older Egret II cabinets. The only data I have on them is the broken one that came with my other Egret II.
Hearing about many of owners who aren't bothered doesn't instill any confidence in the power supplies. There are happy owners of Blue Elf JAMMA boards, GBS RGB to VGA adapters, and other mediocre items. Just because people do not recognize a potential problem doesn't give it a pass.
Looks like this group buy has brought a lot of users to alberto1225, enlisting him to make repro panels. In some cases, more than one panel for a single cab. If that is the case, might it best to have each panel have its own separate harness to make the switch easy? Of course, you would have to have joysticks and buttons populated for each panel if doing so. Any value in posting the Mouser links to the connectors to make harnesses, or is that covered elsewhere on the Net?
Also, regarding my NNC and setting it up for JAMMA without using a JVS->JAMMA convertor (to avoid the high cost and lag). Seems the JAMMA loom solutions produced forces the user to use one standard or another at all times. The panel mount connectors are bypassed entirely. Switching between the two standards requires physical reconnection of wiring. I am sure that is a hassle.
View attachment 15112
I have laying around an OEM Sega harnesses.
View attachment 15113
After looking at the connectors on this harness all terminated already, it becomes readily apparent that all I have to do to make it dovetail right into the NNC cab is to make 2-way splitters for each one of these connections:
Also, regarding my NNC and setting it up for JAMMA without using a JVS->JAMMA convertor (to avoid the high cost and lag). Seems the JAMMA loom solutions produced forces the user to use one standard or another at all times. The panel mount connectors are bypassed entirely. Switching between the two standards requires physical reconnection of wiring. I am sure that is a hassle.
View attachment 15112
I have laying around an OEM Sega harnesses.
View attachment 15113
After looking at the connectors on this harness all terminated already, it becomes readily apparent that all I have to do to make it dovetail right into the NNC cab is to make 2-way splitters for each one of these connections:
- 1P & 2P
- 3x - AMP UP 177913-1
- 2x - AMP UP 177905-1
- Kick Harness
- 2x - AMP UP 177912-1
- 1x - AMP UP 177904-1
- VGA Splitter
- D-sub 15 Breakout
- 220 ohm resistors for JAMMA RGB
- Power
- 2x - JST VLR-08V
- 1x - JST VLP-08V
- 2x - JST VLP-06V
- 1x - JST VLR-06V
- Audio
- RCA splitter
- Resistors on JAMMA speaker level output to line level output
PascalP
Legendary
@acblunden2 haven’t checked all the individual numbers you listed but it sounds about right, I just used a lot of connectors I had in my scrap bin + the ones already on the harness.
So it plugged it inbetween the OEM cab wiring and had Jamma in parallel to JVS.
From memory the ones you have to change completely to JST NH 9p is the coin/service connector
For audio I wired the mono Jamma to both channels of a high/low convertor to give me RCA out
So it plugged it inbetween the OEM cab wiring and had Jamma in parallel to JVS.
From memory the ones you have to change completely to JST NH 9p is the coin/service connector
For audio I wired the mono Jamma to both channels of a high/low convertor to give me RCA out
I'll make it work @PascalP. Will keep you all updated. Thanks!
FYI, since the NNC is my first tri-sync monitor, I hypothesized the monitor should be able sync up to console SCART 15khz RGB without an RGB amp. Pulled out the Sync Strike, the PS2, the requisite SCART cable, plugged it in right to the VGA/RCA connections, and voila! Looks great for 480i. No need to build an RGB amp circuit for this cab. SCART RGB is nice and contrasty. I could hear audible clicking from the chassis as it was syncing up from one menu screen to another. A little scary, but should be fine.
Pics below:
FYI, since the NNC is my first tri-sync monitor, I hypothesized the monitor should be able sync up to console SCART 15khz RGB without an RGB amp. Pulled out the Sync Strike, the PS2, the requisite SCART cable, plugged it in right to the VGA/RCA connections, and voila! Looks great for 480i. No need to build an RGB amp circuit for this cab. SCART RGB is nice and contrasty. I could hear audible clicking from the chassis as it was syncing up from one menu screen to another. A little scary, but should be fine.
Pics below:
Attachments
hi if my windy psu is dead what can I do? Rewrite is going to storage tomorrow finally. So is there anything he can do in the mean time. To get cab running to see what's wrong with it.
A Sun PSU should work. From the Windy II in my possession, it had the same PCB connectors as a Sun PSU. You'll have to rewire the AC and the connector that powers the JVS I/O. You should look to repair it though. Might be a fuse if there is one in your Windy II PSU. Sadly, I can't look at it now. But PSU's are the easiest electronic component in a cab to repair (I know, I know, you're in paradise and soldering electronics is punishable by death out there 
)
FYI, I did test voltages on the Windy II in my possession before I plugged in the Naomi, after some adjustment, I got perfect 3.3v and 5v. 12v was a bit over, but that wasn't a big deal.
)FYI, I did test voltages on the Windy II in my possession before I plugged in the Naomi, after some adjustment, I got perfect 3.3v and 5v. 12v was a bit over, but that wasn't a big deal.
they throw coconuts at me. Its more along the lines I'm very very novice at soldering.
The PSU is fine on the Windy (not sure why anyone thought otherwise). Gets proper voltages with and without load.
The cab doesn't do anything though... No audio, no video (the monitor does static up).
As for the E2s, they're both up and running with lovely monitors thanks to @XeD, @300wins, and a big personal thank you to @radiantsvgun.
So current statuses are:
E2s fully working.
Q25 fully working.
Domy Theater has a 100% dead monitor.
Windy doesn't display any picture or make any sounds but gets proper output from the PSU.
The cab doesn't do anything though... No audio, no video (the monitor does static up).
As for the E2s, they're both up and running with lovely monitors thanks to @XeD, @300wins, and a big personal thank you to @radiantsvgun.
So current statuses are:
E2s fully working.
Q25 fully working.
Domy Theater has a 100% dead monitor.
Windy doesn't display any picture or make any sounds but gets proper output from the PSU.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
ReplicaX
Grand Master
Can't say enough about how happy I am the Q25 works. Really wish I wasn't working 70+hrs a week and had finished off my cap lists for the chassis and PSU for you. As now that it works, I highly recommend you change those out.
My Q25 is now permanently off til I cap the PSU and Monitor as its showing the signs. Not gonna risk it, til its capped.
Windy 2, I'd really check all the wiring on it and I/O connections as having no sound is odd. Also see if you are even getting a B+ on that chassis.
Domy, that truly sucks. Do you think the chassis is salvageable for repair, otherwise how does the tube look overall?
No worries at all. I'll get around to it myself if you don't. The monitor looks 10/10, so I'm not even sure it needs it yet, but it never hurts to know the last time it was done!
Domy - Well, the chassis looks okay at a glance, and since Yaton had a few other non-working Domys, I'm hoping he can cobble together a working chassis. I may take a shot at recapping and seeing what happens if I can find the time to pull it and get a list going. The tube looks A-Okay, it's just not getting any power. IT HAS GIANT HANDLES ON IT FOR SPINNING IT!
Windy 2 - It struck me as odd too, but I tried every combination of RCA plugs in the cab with no luck. Same with the RGB connectors. The chassis is getting some sort of signal, because if you plug in one of the RGB connectors attached to it you can hear the pitch of the monitor whine change, if you know what I mean? I've never dealt with a Windy before, so I'm a little lost. It has 4x the wires as anything else, ha. Reminds me of the Cyberlead.
Maybe the audio amp is dead, and thus no sound?
No way, are you saying it actually has a rotate mech?
.