What's new
By:
Filters

FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

For Sale
Hate to hear about the issue you guys are having, but great to see people come together to try and resolve issues like this. Will certainly report once the eastern Canadian container arrives.
 
acblunden2 said:
markedkiller78 said:
I love the comment above, if it works I’ll recap it, if it doesn’t I’ll replace it :lol:
Click to expand...
That's not what I said at all.
Click to expand...
I know what you mean. Those caps will eventually fail, so now that you are at setting it up is a good moment to replace some parts that are bound to fail. I do it only on PCBs or PSU that I know that will fail, otherwise, it's good if it works.
 
I'm loving this pic from @Cereth on Twitter. In my mind Turtles in Time was the first game I'll be putting in my Windy 2 when it arrives (after testing on a cheap PCB of course).

Du5EUFIUUAAJakO.jpg


The illuminated blue with the Windy II logo looks so dope!
 
completely unrealated but any have or know someone with aero city cp?
 
Egret II Update:
  1. Yellow touch-up spots just laughed at Goof-off and paint thinner.
    • Will mix up a batch of retrobright and if that doesn't work, I am probably going to tear it down and repaint the sucker anyway.
  2. I am definitely having issues with the E2 PSU.
    • Furthest I can turn down the voltage without load is 5.7vdc-5.9vdc. 12vdc and -5vdc are ok.
IMG_2798.JPG
IMG_2800.JPG

I have extra CPS2 and NAOMI boards, so what the heck, I plugged them in. SFA in attract mode doesn't show the character sprites. All the backgrounds, overlays, SFX are there. MvC2 gets just past the Capcom logo as the music starts to wind up and gets stuck in an infinite loops. I am going to re-cap it and see if that helps. If not, looks like Peter Chou to the rescue once I get this bad boy home next month. @radiantsvgun, please PM me those connectors. Hope those boards aren't toasted.

Good news is the marquee light works and the monitor looks pretty good. Below are some snaps with the TPG driving the monitor. I am getting some wavy crawlies across the screen. I guess the MS9 doesn't like Crafty Mech 15khz. I didn't see those in the CPS2 or NAOMI screens. A tiny bit of convergence issues as well:

IMG_2793.JPG
IMG_2796.JPG

IMG_2795.JPG

Windy II Update:
  1. Outside, the Windy II looks pretty good. Inside it pretty grimey. Matter of fact, the Windy looks worse than the E2 from the inside
    • Lots of oxidation everywhere too
  2. Monitor looks like it is about to die
    • Does a chirp, collapses on itself horizontally, then springs the image back into form
    • What do you guys think that is? Filter cap? EDIT: Looks like it is a HOT that is going out at best, flyback at worst
  3. Oh, stupid me, I forgot to bring a laptop with a VGA connector to test with external video, because..........
  4. While voltages tested good off the PSU
  5. Plugging in the NAOMI brought me to a JVS I/O error
  6. Looking at the JVS I/O board, there is oxidation everywhere
  7. I think I see a cap leaking
  8. I ran a separate USB cable to the from the I/O to the NAOMI, still no luck
IMG_2801.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2799.JPG
    IMG_2799.JPG
    465.7 KB · Views: 56
  • IMG_2794.JPG
    IMG_2794.JPG
    450 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG_2797.JPG
    IMG_2797.JPG
    433.6 KB · Views: 59
Last edited:
Here is what the I/O looks like. I am hoping it is just that leaky cap.

EDIT: RTFM!!! Looks like I forgot to set the jumper settings for 2L12B. Sadly, won't be able to see these cabs again till the New Year.

KonamiIO.JPG
 
Last edited:
kuze said:
I'm loving this pic from @Cereth on Twitter. In my mind Turtles in Time was the first game I'll be putting in my Windy 2 when it arrives (after testing on a cheap PCB of course).

Du5EUFIUUAAJakO.jpg


The illuminated blue with the Windy II logo looks so dope!
Click to expand...
My partner has guts to go straight to that. Using my CyberLead JAMMA adapter for it for now. It's almost exclusively running this, Simpsons, Sunset Riders, Parodius, and Gradius games. He jokingly wants to bring his Gradius Bubble System over and put it in, I don't even want that in my house :|
 
acblunden2 said:
Egret II Update:
  1. Yellow touch-up spots just laughed at Goof-off and paint thinner.
    • Will mix up a batch of retrobright and if that doesn't work, I am probably going to tear it down and repaint the sucker anyway.
  2. I am definitely having issues with the E2 PSU.
    • Furthest I can turn down the voltage without load is 5.7vdc-5.9vdc. 12vdc and -5vdc are ok.
IMG_2798.JPG
IMG_2800.JPG

I have extra CPS2 and NAOMI boards, so what the heck, I plugged them in. SFA in attract mode doesn't show the character sprites. All the backgrounds, overlays, SFX are there. MvC2 gets just past the Capcom logo as the music starts to wind up and gets stuck in an infinite loops. I am going to re-cap it and see if that helps. If not, looks like Peter Chou to the rescue once I get this bad boy home next month. @radiantsvgun, please PM me those connectors. Hope those boards aren't toasted.

Good news is the marquee light works and the monitor looks pretty good. Below are some snaps with the TPG driving the monitor. I am getting some wavy crawlies across the screen. I guess the MS9 doesn't like Crafty Mech 15khz. I didn't see those in the CPS2 or NAOMI screens. A tiny bit of convergence issues as well:

IMG_2793.JPG
IMG_2796.JPG

IMG_2795.JPG

Windy II Update:
  1. Outside, the Windy II looks pretty good. Inside it pretty grimey. Matter of fact, the Windy looks worse than the E2 from the inside
    • Lots of oxidation everywhere too
  2. Monitor looks like it is about to die
    • Does a chirp, collapses on itself horizontally, then springs the image back into form
    • What do you guys think that is? Filter cap? EDIT: Looks like it is a HOT that is going out at best, flyback at worst
  3. Oh, stupid me, I forgot to bring a laptop with a VGA connector to test with external video, because..........
  4. While voltages tested good off the PSU
  5. Plugging in the NAOMI brought me to a JVS I/O error
  6. Looking at the JVS I/O board, there is oxidation everywhere
  7. I think I see a cap leaking
  8. I ran a separate USB cable to the from the I/O to the NAOMI, still no luck
IMG_2801.JPG
Click to expand...
The Happ adapter I had was made by @FrancoB several, several years ago. Also, there is a French seller making those adapters on eBay. I don’t think his have a connection for -5v while Franco’s does.
 
acblunden2 said:
I am definitely having issues with the E2 PSU.


Furthest I can turn down the voltage without load is 5.7vdc-5.9vdc. 12vdc and -5vdc are ok.
Click to expand...
Please understand this practice. There is no useful information gain by measuring switch power supply this way when you have guaranteed improper function by operating without minimum current load require for regulation. if you don't want plug pcb in hook 1ohm 50watt resistor on your DC +5v and DC ground and remeasure results.
 
I just keep some shitty/cheap PCBs on hand for testing cabs.

I have an old pandoras box that someone gave to me that I used as a test pcb for a while, I have a logic pro2 with some glitchy graphics (worth only $16 working so... ) that I also use
 
twistedsymphony said:
I just keep some shitty/cheap PCBs on hand for testing cabs.

I have an old pandoras box that someone gave to me that I used as a test pcb for a while, I have a logic pro2 with some glitchy graphics (worth only $16 working so... ) that I also use
Click to expand...
Combatribes is my trusty test PCB. It's survived everything so far.
 
brad808 said:
Please understand this practice. There is no useful information gain by measuring switch power supply this way when you have guaranteed improper function by operating without minimum current load require for regulation. if you don't want plug pcb in hook 1ohm 50watt resistor on your DC +5v and DC ground and remeasure results.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll remember to always have such a resistor handy. When the cabs arrived, Hatsune Mike was telling me these PSU's were awful. He was right.

I have a bunch of those Peter Chou switching PSU's laying around so I am just going to throw that in there. It's near the same form factor so it will fit. I also use that on my test bench and it works wtih ever PCB I own.
radiantsvgun said:
The Happ adapter I had was made by @FrancoB several, several years ago. Also, there is a French seller making those adapters on eBay. I don’t think his have a connection for -5v while Franco’s does.
Click to expand...
From your PM, I was hoping for just links to the connector housings. I have an upcoming purchase from mouser I need to make anyway. So if anyone knows just what the connectors are on the E2 PSU, please let me know.

On a related note, regarding the JAMMA connection to a JVS cab. I could see in the Windy II, there was no JVS-to-JAMMA connector. (I am wondering how @Cereth did it. I am sure he has a bunch of JVS-to-JAMMA adapters though). So I think I will make a JAMMA loom for it to avoid the cost and lag associated with the conversion. Will see if my buddy's laser cutter can cut slot in the panel mount for additional AMP Up connectors. Looks pretty straight forward but let me know if anything is not correct:

Video Connection:
  1. JAMMA Red -> Pin 1 on VGA
  2. JAMMA Green -> Pin 2 on VGA
  3. JAMMA Blue -> Pin 3 on VGA
  4. JAMMA VGnd -> Pin 5 on VGA
  5. JAMMA CSync -> Pin 13 on VGA
I have one of these handy so if that is the proper way to do it, will make it easy.

Audio Connection:
  1. JAMMA Speaker Level output into a resistor network for Line Level output into female RCA's
I think this is like $3 in parts to achieve this.

DC Volts Connections:
  1. JST VL connector
I'll probably do the same on the NNC. Only tricky part I see is to laser cut the slots on the panel. And doing that cut is just to make it look clean.
 
radiantsvgun said:
@acblunden2 you should reach out to FrancoB and see if he still has his schematic. I have no idea what those connectors are.
Click to expand...
I will. And don't sweat it too much brutha. I am sure the spacing the pins is standard. I'll just pull out the cheap Harbor Freight callipers and do some measuring, then match it to a connector series that works. Post the info here when I find out. Sucks I can't work on these cabs till next year. They are still at my buddy's place.

Oh, regarding my last post with the JVS/JAMMA loom, as far as laser cutting holes for additional wire harnesses connector panels, I think I will just re-terminate the AMP Up connectors coming from the JVS/IO so that those wires and the JAMMA wires terminate into the same connector. Should be much easier to pull off than laser cutting slots into the panel. Also, no need for a physical re-connection under the CP when switching from JVS-to-JAMMA. The only switching will be with the boards in the back. And it is a good idea for me to leave the harnesses coming from the I/O as OG. I'll just fab new ones for this purpose. Plus, I don't know how to extract AMP Up pins and likely don't have the tool for it.

While I don't have access the the E2 and Windy II till next year, the NNC is at my house which I can work on. Here is what I noticed that I have to work on:
  1. My monitor remote board only allows me to adjust settings DOWN, not UP.
    • Hope it is just a loose connection and at worse, a solder reflow will fix it
    • This should just be isolated to my cab and not everyone else's
  2. 1P and 2P seems reversed
    • Wiring under under the CP looks correct, I suspect when Yaton's crew were either stripping out the good parts and putting back in older parts, they connected to the JVS I/O incorrectly
  3. Still need to familiarize myself with the cab
    1. Will need to figure out how to connect a System 256 and Taito Type X2 in there
    2. IIRC, TTX2 works off AC, so need to look where I can distribute the AC coming into the cab to the TTX2 while keeping everything else in tact
I'll post pics as I go along for anyone interested.
 
PSU Connector for Egret II found. Based upon info from FrancoB posted over on OA. The PSU headers are below with the links I found to them on Mouser:
A little over $3 in parts. Also, FrancoB says you have to remove one of the pins from the 13 position header for the keying to work. A little soldering, crimping, and heat shrinking and you should end up with something like this for whatever PSU you want to use:

EgretIIPSUHarness.jpg

Should help folks in this group buy that have issues with the PSU or it is dead. Hatsune Mike was cheeky when he came to pick up his cab in Fremont. He said, something like "Welcome to the world of Egret II." He didn't even bat an eye when his E2 PSU was found to be dead. Mine "works", but is overpowered and causes issues with the NAOMI and CPS2 I processed. I am going to swap it out for a Peter Chou, maybe even a Sun so I can run NAOMI games.
 
Last edited:
I aprreciate that people may have issues with their cabs, not just from this container, but please remember that there are hundreds of egret 2 owners that have no issues with their PSUs.

Naomi is JVS and draws too much power for the stock egret 2 PSU (and many other jamma cabs) it should power CPS2 when working properly.

It’s not a fault that the PSU can’t power a Naomi.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top