Much better eye than I have. Didn't notice the chassis number in the pictures I took. So the chassis is likely stuck in some unknown resolution until it gets the proper remote board.
FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)
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That combination sounds about right. The Windy has a PB6643-1 chassis, a PB6643-2 remote board and PB6644 neck board.its got a toshiba pb7534-1 with a toshiba pb7534-2 remote board
Everything I'd run into shows dipswitch settings on the remote board to change resolutions, as others have also mentioned in this thread. And there are no dipswitches on this remote board.That combination sounds about right. The Windy has a PB6643-1 chassis, a PB6643-2 remote board and PB6644 neck board.its got a toshiba pb7534-1 with a toshiba pb7534-2 remote board
I don't think it was swapped out I think Yanton just threw that remote on it. Its suppose to be dip switch or digital osd
anyone with a working tube chassis and remote on their windy2 can you let me know what ya got so I can compare.
So maybe it is remote board same amount of buttons
anyone know of a cap kit or list for konami windy 2 psu
@nem here's the rotating mech. Super simple, just four rollers at the back of the tube and two handles on the frame.
Hopefully someone can ID the chassis by eye? I can't seem to find a model number or brand written on it.
https://imgur.com/a/0RK3opw
Hopefully someone can ID the chassis by eye? I can't seem to find a model number or brand written on it.
https://imgur.com/a/0RK3opw
Nice.
I'm gonna guess the chassis is a Toei. It looks original, so that's good. More than likely very bespoke, so you'll need to get it fixed. However, I just looked through the pics that Yaton sent and he has pics of the cab working. It's the same cab, I'm sure.
Remove the chassis. Check the fuse. Go over the solder work, apply solder to joints that look cracked or dry. Put it back in, double check all connectors. Wiring from chassis to neck board, neck board seated good on the neck, dag line to neck board, anode cap to tube, both yoke leads to chassis, wiring from remote control to chassis, power input to chassis. Turn it on. Hopefully you will get a glow in the neck. You can turn voltage on the flyback so you get a visible raster on screen.
I'm gonna guess the chassis is a Toei. It looks original, so that's good. More than likely very bespoke, so you'll need to get it fixed. However, I just looked through the pics that Yaton sent and he has pics of the cab working. It's the same cab, I'm sure.
Remove the chassis. Check the fuse. Go over the solder work, apply solder to joints that look cracked or dry. Put it back in, double check all connectors. Wiring from chassis to neck board, neck board seated good on the neck, dag line to neck board, anode cap to tube, both yoke leads to chassis, wiring from remote control to chassis, power input to chassis. Turn it on. Hopefully you will get a glow in the neck. You can turn voltage on the flyback so you get a visible raster on screen.
Surgery is probably required to figure this out. Hopefully, there aren't too many parts in it. I can check it out again on Wednesday.
There are a few pics of the PSU here, not detailed enough to see values but you get the idea of how complex it is.
https://www.gamestone.co.uk/gsrcade/arcade_information_konami_windy_ii.php
https://www.gamestone.co.uk/gsrcade/arcade_information_konami_windy_ii.php
Itchhhhh! That looks overly complex
that would be overly appreciated. Thank you.
It looks like it has independent power supplies for 3.3V, 5V and 12V that have their grounds tied together. It's a smart design, not complex at all. There's an audio amp at the back.
If someone takes measurements of the PSUs you could see if there's drop in replacements for them. Connectors look like JST VH, which is what's used on many open frame Mean Well PSUs.
If someone takes measurements of the PSUs you could see if there's drop in replacements for them. Connectors look like JST VH, which is what's used on many open frame Mean Well PSUs.
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Not yet. Should be here next week.