Of course they don't ship to Canada lol.https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/360127247409Can anyone point me to a reputable dealer in North America (either a web shop or Ebay link) for a certified Power Supply for the HAS? I purchased what was supposed to be a Meanwell PSU on Ebay and found out I got sent something completely different than advertised
MWP606 works perfectly and fits RGB’s 3D printed terminal cover
Home Arcade System
- Thread starter RGB
- Start date
I think they do, try to reach out to them. They also sell through their own online store.Of course they don't ship to Canada lol.https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/360127247409MWP606 works perfectly and fits RGB’s 3D printed terminal coverCan anyone point me to a reputable dealer in North America (either a web shop or Ebay link) for a certified Power Supply for the HAS? I purchased what was supposed to be a Meanwell PSU on Ebay and found out I got sent something completely different than advertised
Would this one be overkill?
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=521_531&products_id=3414
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=521_531&products_id=3414
I like this one the best - http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=521_526&products_id=4
It's 10A, so definitely overkill. However, the bigger issue with that is that it only outputs +12V. You want a PSU that outputs +5V, +12V and also -5V.
Neodogg
Grand Master
I use this also, chopstick educated me on it too. Works wonderfully in my set up...
Neodogg
Grand Master
Budget Arcade Power SuppliesCan anyone point me to a reputable dealer in North America (either a web shop or Ebay link) for a certified Power Supply for the HAS? I purchased what was supposed to be a Meanwell PSU on Ebay and found out I got sent something completely different than advertised
Thanks all, I ended up purchasing the MWP from Twisted Quarter.
Last question! Interested in grabbing an RGB cable for the HAS that goes directly into BNC (skips the SCART connector). Is this cable ideal for the setup to my BVM?
https://retro-access.com/collection...-coaxial-multicore-for-pvm-monitor-and-extron
BNC and RCA cable for Neo Geo AES. Red, green, blue and csync lines are BNC. Audio lines are RCA. 5 feet long as standard. This cable uses composite video to sync the image so it might not be compatible with your extron or PVM.
Last question! Interested in grabbing an RGB cable for the HAS that goes directly into BNC (skips the SCART connector). Is this cable ideal for the setup to my BVM?
https://retro-access.com/collection...-coaxial-multicore-for-pvm-monitor-and-extron
BNC and RCA cable for Neo Geo AES. Red, green, blue and csync lines are BNC. Audio lines are RCA. 5 feet long as standard. This cable uses composite video to sync the image so it might not be compatible with your extron or PVM.
That^, or my HD-15 module + generic VGA->BNC cable.
moltomolto
Student
Has anyone tried the wireless 2.4g Saturn Retro-Bit controllers with the HAS Saturn adapter? It does register for me, but is constantly spamming one of the kick buttons without input. Curious if there's any way to get this working properly.
the Goat
Grand Master
I tried and failed to get it to work. Once it did connect. Some buttons were locked on autofire like you describe. Also I think some of the d-pad buttons didn't work right.
moltomolto
Student
Aw, that's a shame. I wonder if this is fixable through firmware?
I designed my adapters around the official Sega digital controllers, 3rd party controllers may not work. I plan to update the code once I buy a Retro-Bit controller - for now, I believe you could use @Arthrimus' code with my adapter (with some port number changes), I think his code works with the wireless Saturn controllers.
moltomolto
Student
Actually my code is reported to not work properly with the wireless retro bit controllers. It does work with the wired ones though. I have a theory about what is wrong with the wireless controllers but I don't have one to test with yet. I will be looking into this issue in the future.
Adapter only.
moltomolto
Student
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Gents, I have a question, I just purchased a Rabio Lepus PCB and visually it looks OK, although the caps do look old. Here is my problem, it is displaying with a faded look on the screen. I tried to adjust the knob on the HAS and while it does fine on other PCBs, on this one it still looks faded (like contrast is too high).
I'm using: PCB > HAS > SCART > RetroTink RGB2Comp > NTSC CRT with Component inputs
I'll admit, this is a new set-up for me and I have not tested this on my OSSC to LCD TV yet, but curious if this is a normal "odd PCB" issue, or if I have a bad PCB and have to let the seller know. If know one knows, I'll break out the OSSC and test later this week.
I'm using: PCB > HAS > SCART > RetroTink RGB2Comp > NTSC CRT with Component inputs
I'll admit, this is a new set-up for me and I have not tested this on my OSSC to LCD TV yet, but curious if this is a normal "odd PCB" issue, or if I have a bad PCB and have to let the seller know. If know one knows, I'll break out the OSSC and test later this week.
J
jassin000
I had some PCBs be brighter than others, thats why the HAS has the adjustment knob.
But having little/no effect seems like something could be wrong with the PCBs output levels.
Also remember to switch the HAS over to 75ohm sync mode and use the SCART port.
Direct TTL from a very high/over powered output PCB could actually be bad for the OSSC.
But having little/no effect seems like something could be wrong with the PCBs output levels.
Also remember to switch the HAS over to 75ohm sync mode and use the SCART port.
Direct TTL from a very high/over powered output PCB could actually be bad for the OSSC.