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DARKSOFT New CPSIII Ultra Simms! 8 times the size of a regular SIMM

djsheep said:
@Epyc you got pics of the motherboard? Was/Is there a battery under the white cover?
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No battery. As of right now, these are the only ones I can find.
 

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For those of you who want to try this at home, and for the EE's in the house who want to tell me I did something wrong, the 5v reset signal comes from this capcom custom and finds its way to pin 40 of the scsi chip. With a 20 ohm resistor I can sink that to .2v which is well within the LOW range of TTL, so that holds this chip in reset. After testing with Red Earth and some other games I think this is a viable solution and easier for most people to do than remove the chip entirely. I do think that would work too! I also tried several resistor values before I found 20 ohm (500, 100) because I wasn't sure how much current was coming in, but at this level I think it's also probably safe to just jump these pins directly together if you don't have a resistor. So if you want to do this, you need to tie pins 40 (reset) and 39 (gnd) together with a jumper or a 20 ohm or less resistor.
 
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And after that, the pauses on Warzard dissapeared on your case?
 
@HardAzRockz keep in mind all other games work without this mod, it’s just to fix red earth (and apparently just some setups need it).
 
ekorz said:
@HardAzRockz keep in mind all other games work without this mod, it’s just to fix red earth (and apparently just some setups need it).
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Oh, It sounded like most people have this problem. I definately want Red Earth working properly considering the short list of CPS3 titles available . I spent a small fortune on this and need every game to justify my purchases. Thanks for the heads up ill try without the modification first.
 
ekorz said:
IMG_0950.jpg
For those of you who want to try this at home, and for the EE's in the house who want to tell me I did something wrong, the 5v reset signal comes from this capcom custom and finds its way to pin 40 of the scsi chip. With a 20 ohm resistor I can sink that to .2v which is well within the LOW range of TTL, so that holds this chip in reset. After testing with Red Earth and some other games I think this is a viable solution and easier for most people to do than remove the chip entirely. I do think that would work too! I also tried several resistor values before I found 20 ohm (500, 100) because I wasn't sure how much current was coming in, but at this level I think it's also probably safe to just jump these pins directly together if you don't have a resistor. So if you want to do this, you need to tie pins 40 (reset) and 39 (gnd) together with a jumper or a 20 ohm or less resistor.
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You could probably make a small hat PCB using a flipped PLCC socket for anyone not comfortable with, or wanting to solder to their CPS3 board. It should then just press fit over the AMD chip.
 
@bodgit clean idea! are there “flipped” sockets made to fit over those chips even when they’re soldered onto pcbs already? Seems to me the sockets wouldn’t be deep enough, that they’re made to fit these chips the other direction, but I don’t play with these that often.
 
ekorz said:
@bodgit clean idea! are there “flipped” sockets made to fit over those chips even when they’re soldered onto pcbs already? Seems to me the sockets wouldn’t be deep enough, that they’re made to fit these chips the other direction, but I don’t play with these that often.
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People use it as a solution all the time now. The neobiosmasta and the furrtek neocd multi use the sockets upside down for no-solder solutions.
 
Maybe I can order one and give it a try next time I do a digikey order. something like this? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adam-tech/PLCC-44-AT/9833020

I suppose someone (else!) could make a pcb for this, but then you're soldering this whole thing onto a pcb, then adding one small (probably smd) resistor. I think with a socket like this, I could clip the other pins flush and just solder a resistor/jumper directly to the appropriate pins. I'm not that motivated to experiment honestly, mine is working fine and I don't expect to undo the mod anytime soon, if ever.
 
I don’t think there are special flipped sockets, just some might be better suited than others depending on their design. It might be you have to remove some plastic material from the bottom of the socket so it pushes down further onto the chip to achieve contact.

I was going to have a go at making a PCB as my CPS3 has this pausing issue and I’ve seen the technique used on the same devices @Mitsurugi-w mentioned plus it’s used on a couple of Amiga mods that I have, including one that does something very similar but for its PCMCIA slot.
 
The proper version of the Makoto Fix for SF3:3S — no longer green title screen [SIMM5_Final_MakotoFIX.bin].

And alternatively, the re:THIRD version of 3S with some impressive visual tweaks [SIMM5_Final_reTHIRD.bin].

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejjMJZbGRkY


Tested both on my multi today, can highly recommend the re:THIRD version of 3S!
 
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