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Custom JVS I/O - MEGA JVS

twistedsymphony said:
winteriscoming said:
How many JVS drivers even use a Type 1 I/O?
Click to expand...
based on my notes, according to the service manuals for each of these games (so it's possible they're incorrect): IT's also possible different cab variants use different I/Os
Sega JVS I/O Type 1: 837-13551-92
Hikaru - Star Wars Arcade Racer
NAOMI - Jambo Safari
NAOMI2 - Club Kart
NAOMI2 - Initial D Arcade Stage 1
NAOMI2 - Initial D Arcade Stage 2
NAOMI2 - Initial D Arcade Stage 3
NAOMI2 - Kings of Route 66
NAOMI2 - Wild Riders
Chihiro - Outrun 2

Sega JVS to JAMMA I/O: 838-13683-02
Hikaru - NASCAR Arcade
NAOMI - Crazy Taxi

Sega JVS I/O Type 2: 837-13844-02
NAOMI - F355 Challenge
NAOMI - F355 Challenge 2
NAOMI - Wave Runner GP
TriForce - F-Zero AX

Sega JVS I/O Type 1.5: 837-14505
Lindbergh - Outrun 2 Special Tours

Sega JVS I/O Type 3: 837-14572
Lindbergh - Hummer
RingWide - Sega Racing Classic
Click to expand...
Awesome!

So an ultimate solution would accommodate connectors from a Type 2, but not sure if I want to have to manage that.

As far as the Type 1's go:
Hikaru - Star Wars Arcade Racer (probably a bad candidate for other games - not worth matching up wiring in my opinion)
NAOMI - Jambo Safari (checked off the list - compatible with OR2 wiring - though lacking a couple of lamp outputs)
NAOMI2 - Club Kart (checked off the list - compatible with OR2 wiring - no shifter, probably a bad candidate without modifications)
NAOMI2 - Initial D Arcade Stage 1 (checked off the list - compatible with OR2 wiring)
NAOMI2 - Initial D Arcade Stage 2 (checked off the list - compatible with OR2 wiring)
NAOMI2 - Initial D Arcade Stage 3 (checked off the list - compatible with OR2 wiring)
NAOMI2 - Kings of Route 66 (probably a bad candidate for other games - not worth matching up wiring in my opinion)
NAOMI2 - Wild Riders (probably a bad candidate for other games - not worth matching up wiring in my opinion)
Chihiro - Outrun 2 (check!)

So there are 2 scenarios I can think of, depending on the cab you have:
1. You have a decent, compatible driving cab and want to play as many drivers as possible, with maybe the potential to have some kind of way to casually play the few other non-standard racing games, like maybe Wild Riders or Wave Runner, in your cab. I can see a valid case for trying to remap controls to work with these games. If you already have the hardware and enough analog controls to make these games playable, why not?
2. You have a non-standard cab, like Wild Riders or Wave Runner. Are you really going to seriously get into trying to boot standard driving games in your cab? I can imagine it would be a novel thing to boot up once in a while, but should i really put effort into accommodating for those cabs?

As far as Type 3's go, am i correct that the 60-pin and 26-pin connectors are pin for pin compatible with Type 1? It looks like all they have in addition is an extra output connector, and I have hard time imagining many drivers needing that many outputs beyond the 6 present in the 60-pin connector.
 
winteriscoming said:
As far as Type 3's go, am i correct that the 60-pin and 26-pin connectors are pin for pin compatible with Type 1? It looks like all they have in addition is an extra output connector, and I have hard time imagining many drivers needing that many outputs beyond the 6 present in the 60-pin connector.
Click to expand...
Yes the Type 3 is intentionally and pinned identical to the type 1 except for the extra output connector.

I wouldn't rule out the need for outputs, i mean 2 spicy only supports the type 3 because the cab is designed with a shit-ton of LEDs just to make it look pretty, even though it's a 1 player per cab gun game with nothing but the gun, a start button and two foot pedals for controls. A lot of the newer games have a blinking LED explosion so that was likely the impetus for adding more outputs on the type 3 I/Os

There are other games like Rhythm Tengoku that have 19 or so outputs but are still nice enough to work on a type 1 I/O, I believe Hummer has a bunch of outputs too but simply doesn't complain if they're not available.
 
Introducing the MEGA JVS PCB, now with 2 sides!

Mega JVS top.png


This design is specific to the Arduino MEGA 2560 as the DUE's analog inputs are apparently not 5V tolerant. I'll have to redesign a little once I get the DUE figured out and working on a breadboard.
 

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winteriscoming said:
The other issue is that for years now I've been torturing myself on soldering projects by using an iron with the most gigantic tip ever. It never occurs to me to order an iron more appropriate for precision work. In fact, I know I've got a couple smaller tipped irons around somewhere, but can't ever find them.
Click to expand...
So those smaller tipped irons I knew I had? They've been sitting on a shelf like 3 feet away from where I sit when I solder... X/

I do very much need to invest in a better setup, though.
 
winteriscoming said:
winteriscoming said:
The other issue is that for years now I've been torturing myself on soldering projects by using an iron with the most gigantic tip ever. It never occurs to me to order an iron more appropriate for precision work. In fact, I know I've got a couple smaller tipped irons around somewhere, but can't ever find them.
Click to expand...
So those smaller tipped irons I knew I had? They've been sitting on a shelf like 3 feet away from where I sit when I solder... X/
I do very much need to invest in a better setup, though.
Click to expand...
For your prototype, just make a PCB relatively larger than what you are planning. Kinda like those fat button phones for older people. :)
 
In anticipation of potential issues with double sided soldering, I incorporated some poor man's vias so that all traces on the top of the PCB have continuity to pads on the bottom. This is to eliminate the concern that a pin connected to a top trace doesn't make good contact with the top pad. Now I can focus all my attention to soldering header pins into the bottom pads.

What I'm using as vias are clipped header pins. There's a hole from the top trace to the bottom trace, so the pin goes through, gets clipped flush on both sides and gets soldered on both sides.

In a commercially manufactured PCB, the through holes would have continuity from a top pad to the bottom, but not so in these home milled PCBs.
 
Ok, so a smaller tipped soldering iron is obviously the way to go for assembling these PCBs. However I was hoping to get away with just milling out the traces and not clearing out the excess copper, but an unexpected and frustrating thing is that I have to nearly constantly chase down short circuits to the the excess copper. Not from sloppy soldering, mind you, but because there are tiny copper burrs along a lot of the traces that I guess are getting moved around during assembly and bridging gaps... I've attempted to minimize the burrs by lightly sanding the boards after milling, but I guess some microscopic burrs still potentially remain recessed within the gaps.

I've been having worse results trying to clear out the excess during milling, mostly because of the way the CNC software I'm using using handles it, which is to treat it like an engraving task and mill all the way to where it's on the line rather than milling to the edge of the line, with no options that I can see to change that. This causes the pads and traces to all be much smaller and thinner. Whereas when I mill out just the outlines, I can do that as a profile milling operation and tell it to mill outside the line, leaving the traces to be mostly the width they're supposed to be. Not to mention clearing out all the excess takes forever (30-45 minutes) compared to just doing the outlines (10-15 minutes). I'm considering attempting a method where I do the initial outline and then have another outline that's slightly larger, giving me more clearance between traces and hopefully have the best of both worlds in terms of milling speed and short-circuit avoidance.

Some of this likely comes down to the tool-chain I'm married to at this point. I have my current method down pretty well, and don't want to experiment with other software at the moment. My end goal is just to mill out prototypes, which I'm doing successfully. I'm not planning to mass produce PCBs on my CNC machine, so I don't necessarily need to invest more time in figuring out other software.
 
So we discussed potentially getting WMMT working with a 2 position shifter.

What about Initial D working with a 6 position shifter? That could be fun.

It would get a little more complicated in this scenario because a given gear depends on the direction and number of times you move the shifter.

At the surface, the logic isn't too difficult:
Start in first gear and keep track of gear by how many times the up or down shift needs to be hit to get to that gear.

In the software this could be handled much quicker than you could manually flicking the 2 position shifter. So say I'm in 5th gear and want to drop down to 4th. On the shifter I put it into 4th and the game registers 1 time shift down. If I went from 5th to 3rd, it registers 2 times shift down.

If you were shifting more realistically, I think you'd go from 5th to 4th to 3rd, but not sure how that mechanic would play into the ID series. I suppose on the 2 position shifter you'd have to manage a flick in either direction however many times anyway, so translating that to shifter positions might feel natural.

Where it gets tricky is that none of the Initial D games really have a concept of putting it in neutral. You're always in one gear or another. On the 6 position shifter, neutral would just have to equate to staying in the last gear until put into another.

Then it gets a little tricky ensuring you're starting out in first gear and that the I/O is correct about which gear the game is registering. There's a potential for a new race to start and the I/O thinks you're in 3rd while the game has you in first. You'd have to stay on top of it and get back to first at the start of a race.

It could work... I wonder if it would be more fun. :)
 
What about an extra button?
If you press it while a gear is active, it goes neutral, for new race start or while drifting.
If you press it while neutral, it goes to the previous shift (or, depending the game, to 1st gear for a new race start).
I don't know if it's feasible but it might be a solution.
And that kind of shifter could do the trick :
IMG_0272.JPG
I hope my explanations are understandable as my English is not so good 8| :/
 
If I can get pin for pin compatibility with Type 1 I/O, who would be interested in one of these boards?

I'm looking into maybe ordering a small batch of boards.

I wasn't originally looking to manufacture and sell these, but it looks like I can get boards manufactured at a decent price in small batches (maybe under $10). I'd be interested in getting a few nice looking commercially manufactured boards for myself. I might be willing to facilitate an order of boards and sell them unassembled at a minimal markup. Everything is through-hole, so soldering them together yourself shouldn't be too bad if you have basic soldering skills.

Maybe with DIY assembly and all components included (you supply the Arduino, though), we could be looking at $25 plus shipping.

I personally don't want to be involved in selling assembled boards. It's not something I enjoy doing enough and I doubt I would feel properly compensated for my time spent doing it.

Anyone want to partner on this? If someone really enjoyed assembling boards and managing communication with buyers, I'd be more than happy to partner up.

Otherwise this project is probably just going to result in code and plans being posted (which I still want to do anyway) but nothing else really available.

I'm not really looking to make money on this project, but I also don't want to put all of this out there and someone takes it and starts making money off of it without having been involved in any of the work. So what's the middle ground while keeping it open source? Maybe I just share code and a schematic without the specific board design?
 
i would be interested in 3 also i can solder up some boards for people
 
How much assembly would be required?
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
How much assembly would be required?
Click to expand...
All through-hole components.

-1 60 pin header
-1 26 pin header
-1 resistor
-4 diodes
-1 5 pin header
-1 4 pin header
-probably 7 3-pin MOSFETS
-maybe up to 50 header pins for plugging into the Arduino - not sure on final count of populated pins
-maybe a few optional headers

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
 
so im making a offer ill solder up for pcbs and parts for myself. atleast a 2 for one deal. for ever 2 boards soldered up with parts i get enough parts and boards for 1 for myself. i need 3 deals like this atleast
 
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