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MiSTer FPGA

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Different vendors are out of different components for MiSTer, which sucks. Want to get all the components I need in one go:
  • Analog I/O
  • SDRAM
  • USB Hub
  • RTC
Thinking about going with the manually soldered kits just so I can get the components I need. Will pair it with a JAMMizer for arcade play (since I already have one) and doesn't pigeon-hole me into extra expenses with different I/O's should I want to play it as a regular console.

Anyone can recommend a good vendor for manually soldered kits? Or know of another vendor besides MiSTerAddons or MiSTerkits that has those components all in stock right now?
 
I am jumping into the MiSTer arena. I see the MiSTer-to-JAMMA solutions that are out there. But I want to save money and have more flexibility.

So, I will be using:
  • JAMMAizer as the I/O
  • Daemonbite Encoders with a PCB I made that breaks out the input signals into the 2x10 Fighting Board form factor for controls
  • 5vdc will be harvested from the switching PSU via a fingerboard (I can also use JAMMAizer's test points)
    • Will feed that 5vdc into a regulator
      • Physical power connection using cinch-type barrel connector
      • I've tested this using the DC brick that comes with the DE-10 and it works great
      • Also tested that I can dial the voltage down to 5.0 exactly off the regulator
      • Off the stock DE-10 PSU, it measures out at ~5.2vdc
  • Short VGA cable for video connection from the analog MiSTer I/O to VGA Hat on JAMMAizer
    • Also, working on a PCB for RGB breakout so I can save costs and control cable length
    • 1648760087333.png
  • Short 3.5mm audio cable for sound from the same analog MiSTer I/O to the same VGA Hat on JAMMAizer
275805534_654221302307557_3841525080399968219_n.jpg


Since I already have JAMMAizer, no need for me to buy one of those MiSTer to JAMMA solutions; money saved. I would still want to use MiSTer as a standalone console for emulation, so all I would need is the standard analog I/O and therefore save money there too. And of course, I still have the flexibility to interface RPi, MAME, and consoles to my JAMMA cab using JAMMAizer. Lots of dough saved!

Stretch goal, as I strengthen my skills with PCB design, want to design a JAMMA hat that works with JAMMAizer's VGA Hat connection.
 
RealMFnG said:
I am jumping into the MiSTer arena. I see the MiSTer-to-JAMMA solutions that are out there. But I want to save money and have more flexibility.

So, I will be using:
  • JAMMAizer as the I/O
  • Daemonbite Encoders with a PCB I made that breaks out the input signals into the 2x10 Fighting Board form factor for controls
  • 5vdc will be harvested from the switching PSU via a fingerboard (I can also use JAMMAizer's test points)
    • Will feed that 5vdc into a regulator
      • Physical power connection using cinch-type barrel connector
      • I've tested this using the DC brick that comes with the DE-10 and it works great
      • Also tested that I can dial the voltage down to 5.0 exactly off the regulator
      • Off the stock DE-10 PSU, it measures out at ~5.2vdc
  • Short VGA cable for video connection from the analog MiSTer I/O to VGA Hat on JAMMAizer
    • Also, working on a PCB for RGB breakout so I can save costs and control cable length
    • 1648760087333.png
  • Short 3.5mm audio cable for sound from the same analog MiSTer I/O to the same VGA Hat on JAMMAizer
275805534_654221302307557_3841525080399968219_n.jpg


Since I already have JAMMAizer, no need for me to buy one of those MiSTer to JAMMA solutions; money saved. I would still want to use MiSTer as a standalone console for emulation, so all I would need is the standard analog I/O and therefore save money there too. And of course, I still have the flexibility to interface RPi, MAME, and consoles to my JAMMA cab using JAMMAizer. Lots of dough saved!

Stretch goal, as I strengthen my skills with PCB design, want to design a JAMMA hat that works with JAMMAizer's VGA Hat connection.
Click to expand...
Looks nice, but I think you'll prefer something simpler and open source, which I'll announce in a few days.
 
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djsheep said:
@evilsim kindly sent me a 3D printed case for a dual Mega Drive Daemonbite so I built it properly. It took a bit of time, I’d say a good hour or two. Can’t recommend it enough. The minimal lag with the M30’s takes MiSTer to a whole other level.

EAA09E61-612A-4338-8E5D-E2A5A55E18E2.jpeg


Really wish I used kynar wire in hindsight (it’s a pain to strip though — anyone got any tips).

15E8FE98-8BD6-4680-8744-2848C134B3C3.jpeg


Not my finest soldering / wiring work but there’s no real need for strain relief so it’s all crammed in there now and works.

My biggest warning to people is to be careful of the USB port on the Arduino. After 10-15 removals, it WILL snap off or become loose. Best to plug your cable in and never remove it from the PCB side.
Click to expand...
Would a small PCB that I can whip up be of service to you mate?

And LoLoL, I have snapped off two USB connectors on the Arduino Pro Micros already!
 
@RealMFnG I (and the MiSTer community) would love a proper pcb to use these with ease, preferably with DB9’s that are PCB mountable.

The rats nest of wires could easily be done with… and yep, those USB connectors on the Micros are too delicate I never remove the usb cable from mine any more.
 
djsheep said:
@RealMFnG I (and the MiSTer community) would love a proper pcb to use these with ease, preferably with DB9’s that are PCB mountable.

The rats nest of wires could easily be done with… and yep, those USB connectors on the Micros are too delicate I never remove the usb cable from mine any more.
Click to expand...
Show me the pinout for the DB9 and what retro Daemonbite retro controller it is for and I'll have it done in a jiffy.

EDIT: Nevermind. Found it. This will be easy. Standby.
 
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RealMFnG said:
Show me the pinout for the DB9 and what retro Daemonbite retro controller it is for and I'll have it done in a jiffy.

EDIT: Nevermind. Found it. This will be easy. Standby.
Click to expand...
Nice one man, look forward to seeing it.

Wonder if there are any off the shelf cases that will work? Perhaps someone can make a 3D print or adjust the existing one for your PCB to fit ;)
 
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