What's new
By:
Filters

DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

keiichi331 said:
IMG_2408.jpg


Here is a quick picture of my A board, in case anything else needs to be checked. Im not sure of the CPU next to the crystal is 12MHz?
Click to expand...
Looks like a 12MHz 68000 CPU. So you are not overclocking it.

But it could still be overheating. Maybe setup a fan blowing between the A & B boards and see if it helps.
 
the Goat said:
Looks like a 12MHz 68000 CPU. So you are not overclocking it.

But it could still be overheating. Maybe setup a fan blowing between the A & B boards and see if it helps.
Click to expand...
THAT

I would stick a heatsink and get some fan action going to see if the problem persists.

Also, when it glitches and you have to reset, are you able to immediately load another game ir the same game and play again for another 20 or so minutes?

Isnt the 1111 Exception error related to ram??
 
Last edited:
Derick2k said:
THAT

I would stick a heatsink and get some fan action going to see if the problem persists.

Also, when it glitches and you have to reset, are you able to immediately load another game ir the same game and play again for another 20 or so minutes?

Isnt the 1111 Exception error related to ram??
Click to expand...
Yeah, after I reset I can play again and load. Everything works perfectly fine, until it doesn't, lol.

Ill try the head sink and fan. I just haven't heard of anyone else needed passive air cooling on the multi, so im wondering if my set up is just messed up and heating up more than others?
 
I'm looking for a definitive answer about the C board prep, because I'm seeing people post about removing the battery on otherwise previously unmolested boards. This is my use case, as documented in the manual. This is the exact C board variant I am working with, no bodge wires, no hacks, with a battery installed. Do I need to remove this battery or not? The manual is inconclusive and I don't know what to believe based on what others are posting re: battery
Screenshot_20220525-121504_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 
Thank you. I think it's best to get the manual updated to clearly state this as a required step.
 
BroadwayJose said:
Thank you. I think it's best to get the manual updated to clearly state this as a required step.
Click to expand...

The manual is pretty clear no?

"These options are the best because they they allow key-re-writing which means that they
can support encrypted ROM sets as-well-as decrypted ROM sets, giving you the most
flexibility. For them to function with the multi, you will need to desolder the battery"
 
Mrhide said:
The manual is pretty clear no?

"These options are the best because they they allow key-re-writing which means that they
can support encrypted ROM sets as-well-as decrypted ROM sets, giving you the most
flexibility. For them to function with the multi, you will need to desolder the battery"
Click to expand...
Yes, it's there. But, it could have been written/structured a bit better.

For example, to run all encrypted roms follow these steps, for decrypted roms follow these steps or skip step x, etc…

Lets face it the majority of humanity skips reading the entire manual of anything, we usually skip everything but the step by step guide to get stuff assembled at first even if we know we will go back at some point and read the whole thing, most just want to get the thing set up and running straight away. :D
 
Last edited:
The whole C-Board guide in the manual is overkill IMO.

I would just recommend everyone use the compatible C-Board with battery removed. Anything else, keep it for forum discussion. Way less headaches.
 
djsheep said:
The whole C-Board guide in the manual is overkill IMO.

I would just recommend everyone use the compatible C-Board with battery removed. Anything else, keep it for forum discussion. Way less headaches.
Click to expand...
This is the way.
 
I'm by no means a hardware expert... But just consider this...
IF the battery exists to preserve the key between power cycles, why wouldn't you need to remove if the goal WAS blanking said key so it could be reprogrammed?

Again I'm not trying to brag here, just saying I set this kit up with ZERO manual (I watched Mits's video twice to determine the solder points for wires) because if you ask me this stuff should be common knowledge about the platform at this point (ie battery exists to hold key, but we need to reprogram a different key every time we change games means you cut the damn thing off).

ac08Rhnz6UnllJDOwjJ2Thm2YRkaLxZdUMEvvzM8s&usqp=CAU.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You're dealing with "what's a 68000" level of knowledge here, which honestly kinda surprises me. Only a few years ago that would have been unheard of because they would be firmly in pandora's box land, if that. Knowing this I would honestly put a giant extremely beginner level explanation of ESD on the first page of the manual and also as a printout you can't avoid in the multi box.
 
dos said:
also as a printout you can't avoid in the multi box.
Click to expand...
Yea, I mean it couldn't hurt... What's a few printed pages going to cost?

I totally identify with what you are saying here, I noticed the same with the internet itself.
In the early days everyone online was a computer guy, you just about had to be to even get connected in the first place.
Then AOL, CompuServe etc made it easy for everyone to get online... Which was great because now everyone can join in the conversation!
But now the conversation is dominated by "what's a CPU?" type questions. ;)
 
dos said:
I would honestly put a giant extremely beginner level explanation of ESD ... as a printout you can't avoid in the multi box.
Click to expand...
Be careful. Regular paper is a really good insulator. Meaning it can accumilate a high electrostatic charge on its surface. You wouldn't want your "helpful" ESD printout to cause an ESD event.
 
I mean, so is the cardboard box it comes in, just have to make sure it's outside the shielded packaging part
 
The multi is extremely well designed, if you have everything prepared ahead of time, its literally 6-7 steps to get it all set up.

I have said it in another post, the manual is confusing in certain areas, over-detailed in some sections, and lacking in others.
It could be cut down to use 1 of these boards, change the pal chip, and solder 2 wires. Use this C board, and remove the battery. Put it all together, done.
The other "compatible A/C boards" if they need to be modded/unmodded, etc...., either explain in an addon or have a section here for that.

Unfortunately, not everyone that has purchased the multi or owns cps1 hardware knows how everything works. You can learn to drive a car but doesn't mean you know how it works / change your oil, brake pads, do a tune-up, etc... but you should :D

I am honestly more worried about people handling the multi than anything else. one wrong move and you can literally rip off one of the many tiny ass components on it and not even realize it.
 
dos said:
I mean, so is the cardboard box it comes in, just have to make sure it's outside the shielded packaging part
Click to expand...
True and true. Just keep the paper on the outside of the pink ESD foam and its all good.
 
Derick2k said:
The multi is extremely well designed, if you have everything prepared ahead of time, its literally 6-7 steps to get it all set up.
Click to expand...

FWIW (and hopefully helpful documentation here), in my tutorial video I broke it down to 14 fine-grained steps:

Step 1: Donor Functionality Check
Step 2: Remove Donor B and C Boards
Step 3: Solder Reset Wire to A Board
Step 4: Solder QSound Wire to A Board
Step 5: Swap PAL Chips
Step 6: Attach C Board to Multi Board
Step 7: Attach Spacers to Multi Board
Step 8: Turn off all DIP Switches on A Board; Attach Multi Board to A Board and Connect Wires
Step 9: Attach Filter JAMMA Board
Step 10: Install Fingerboard into Filter JAMMA Board
Step 11: Connect LCD Selector to Multi Board
Step 12: Format MicroSD card as FAT32 on a PC
Step 13: Copy Games to MicroSD card and run FAT Sorter
Step 14: Insert MicroSD card into Multi and play games
 
ShootTheCore said:
FWIW (and hopefully helpful documentation here), in my tutorial video I broke it down to 14 fine-grained steps:

Step 1: Donor Functionality Check
Step 2: Remove Donor B and C Boards
Step 3: Solder Reset Wire to A Board
Step 4: Solder QSound Wire to A Board
Step 5: Swap PAL Chips
Step 6: Attach C Board to Multi Board
Step 7: Attach Spacers to Multi Board
Step 8: Turn off all DIP Switches on A Board; Attach Multi Board to A Board and Connect Wires
Step 9: Attach Filter JAMMA Board
Step 10: Install Fingerboard into Filter JAMMA Board
Step 11: Connect LCD Selector to Multi Board
Step 12: Format MicroSD card as FAT32 on a PC
Step 13: Copy Games to MicroSD card and run FAT Sorter
Step 14: Insert MicroSD card into Multi and play games
Click to expand...
There you go seven steps :D
The purple ones should be considered part of the same install action just broken apart lol
The crossed-out ones you can do ahead of time.

And again, thanks for the video man, it should be a mandatory/must watch along with Mitsus video before you get to installing this multi :thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top