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PM me with what's going on. I haven't been able to get all the details.
 
No. Keep it off. Ground the legs of the EXC5 in groups of two to discharge them. Give it some time too as the written keys can be stubborn.
Cool, thank you. Connect 2 of the 3 pins to each other, or connect 2 of the 3 pins with some other ground pin?

Also, any recommended tool for lifting chips? IC extractor/Wiha 27920?
 
Wiha chip extractors are a must!

I’ve seen people do the EXC5 different ways. I tend to ground the outer leg to middle on each side (left to middle, right to middle) then all three at the same time. Let me know how ‘ya go.
 
Wiha chip extractors are a must!

I’ve seen people do the EXC5 different ways. I tend to ground the outer leg to middle on each side (left to middle, right to middle) then all three at the same time. Let me know how ‘ya go.
Good to know! I ordered one of these, should be in on Tuesday https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0875LSTD3

Also picked up a cheap extractor that'll arrive tomorrow, I'll give that a try.

Gotcha, thanks!
 
Do these key writing wires look good enough? Not the cleanest, but they don't move or anything.
 

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Do these key writing wires look good enough? Not the cleanest, but they don't move or anything.
Not the tidiest solder job. But I don't see any shorts. Never the less, you should check for shorts with an Ohmmeter before firing it up.
 
EDIT: I just had trouble leaving the resistor installed for the first time last night. Disconnecting one side of the resistor fixed it and allowed keys to be erased and re-written. I don't recommend removing it completely in case you convert it back later..
 
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How hard should it be to get the EPROMs off? I think they've been swapped out once before. My X-Men vs. Street Fighter donor B board seems to be a US board (blue case and fits US A board, at least) with Asian EPROMS (Asia version of the game boots and XVSA chip labels). After I get them out, is there anything I should do to make sure the sockets are ok? They aren't budging with my IC extractor, and something sounds creaky when I try to work them out. I'll wait until the Wiha comes in before I try again.

I think I will try to re-solder the key writing wires. Any advice? 200-250 C on the iron, tin the wires first, add fresh solder to the contacts, then tin the iron too? I'll try to keep the exposed leads short and attach them so the wires all go up like they do in the picture in the instructions.
 
I edited my post above about the resistor. Remove one side of it to make sure the key can be erased.

As for your key wires just add Flux and touch them up a bit. Flux is the stuff of Gods.
 
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Thanks for the advice, everyone. I got it (champion edition from highscoresaves, ordered mid-March) put together, but it boots to a solid dark green screen with nothing but the backlight on the LCD. I've troubleshot and I don't see any issues.

EXC5 may need to be temporarily shorted to remove keys that not been flushed
I shorted EXC5 last weekend after removing the battery a few days before. On the underside of the board, I used a wire to short the 3 pairs of EXC5 pins, then held one end of the wire across two of the pins and connected the other end to the third to short all 3. I held it for over a minute and did this multiple times in a row. I'll do it again when I open it back up.

Broken pins on multi kit
I don't see any. The big board appears to be pushed down as far as it can go, and I think I got the smaller board in far enough. Pictures of both attached.

Interconnect board not installed the correct way
Up arrow is facing up, and I pushed the big board in from the bottom, appears to be a snug connection. See pictures.

Key writing wires are not installed correctly
I re-did the red wire, it doesn't look great but I think it's okay. Tested continuity between each pin and the surrounding pins and didn't find anything, continuity between the pins and the harness ends all checked out. Nothing appears to be touching. The order should be correct (see pictures). I initially tried with the resistor connected, then disconnected it when the first attempts didn't work. Solid green each time.

Correct firmware has not been installed onto multi kit
I haven't messed with the firmware.

Correct ROM pack is not installed on the SD card
The link in the PDF is dead, but I found Darksoft CPS-2 2020-05-24.7z elsewhere. I unzipped it to get CPS2 Roll-Up Base Pack. I formatted my SD card and put games in the root, then each game directory (19XX is the first) in games. Each contains flash.01, flash.02, flash.03, flash.05, flash.07, flash.09, flash.11, key, and NAME.

SD card is bad
It's an 8GB card that came with the kit from highscoresaves, and I connected it to my PC again and all the files appear to be intact.

What should I try next? Thanks!
 

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Try a game with a null key. The key file in the d:/games/[game] directory will be all zero or all f’s I can’t remember which at the moment. MvC with character unlocks… progear halfway to hell.
 
Try a game with a null key. The key file in the d:/games/[game] directory will be all zero or all f’s I can’t remember which at the moment. MvC with character unlocks… progear halfway to hell.
Oh nice, good idea. I can't load anything from the LCD though. It's blank, the up and down buttons don't do anything, and when I press the select button, the video cuts out completely.
 
Alright, almost there. I'm still not seeing anything on the LCD with the pot in the most clockwise position (it started out almost completely counterclockwise), but I can load games. Colors are off though (red and green seem to come through, but not blue). I'll push on the smaller board a bit more and see if that fixes the color, and try a different LCD ribbon cable tomorrow. Other suggestions appreciated!

I cleaned up the keywires and soldering (thanks to @ekorz and @dos for the soldering and wire stripping advice). I shorted EXC5 again and adjusted the LCD cable. The first game I tried loading just booted to a bright green screen, but the second booted to this green-looking Work RAM OK screen. I tried pushing all the boards in a bit more and turned up the contrast pot again, then Eco Fighters booted right away when I plugged it back in. Seemed to play and sound fine, the colors are just off. I went up a few to find a Darkstalkers and VSAV2 plays fine as well. All 6 buttons work, no graphical glitches besides color. There were no color issues with this board with the ROMs that were on it before.
 

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I don't see how the multi kit could cause the color artifacts. Unfortunately I think you might have fried one of the custom chips on your CPS2 A board. But that is only a guess.
 
I don't see how the multi kit could cause the color artifacts. Unfortunately I think you might have fried one of the custom chips on your CPS2 A board. But that is only a guess.
Hmm, uh oh. I'll try a different B board first.
 
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