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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

But if you can't get to the test menu with C8 set to ON, there must be a real hardware problem. You have to check the A-Board.
 
Roch said:
But if you can't get to the test menu with C8 set to ON, there must be a real hardware problem. You have to check the A-Board.
Click to expand...
What would I need to check? Sorry for all the questions, Im a real novice at this so dont really have much of a clue.
But just to confirm - C8 turned on, no test menu, and even trying the test button on my Supergun (not a cab mind you), I get no test menu.

Forgot to mention earlier - c board is 92641C-1
a board is - 89626A-4 (battery not removed)
 
gouki16 said:
a board is - 89626A-4 (battery not removed)
Click to expand...

There is no battery on the A-boards.

gouki16 said:
and even trying the test button on my Supergun (not a cab mind you), I get no test menu.
Click to expand...

That's weird.

gouki16 said:
What would I need to check? Sorry for all the questions, Im a real novice at this so dont really have much of a clue.
But just to confirm - C8 turned on, no test menu,
Click to expand...

I would start by testing the mobo with an original game to see if the problem is there. Then check the solders, and finally give to repair if you don't know anything about it and the problem is still there.
 
Small update, Ive got the test menu working, though it wont work if I have other dip switches on for some reason? But I can get to the test menu, so Im continuing to investigate to try and figure this out... Thanks for all the help so far :)
 
Sorry for the double post, but I think? I've fixed the issue. I think it was bad contacts on the dip switches, as after some finessing, both the difficulty and continue options now work. I'm still not 100% clear on what happened (I feel the underlining issue might still be eluding me), but after trying some more SF2 and 3 Wonders, I can now continue. I wont be so much as breathing on these dip switches from here on out, out of fear something will happen!
Thanks again for all the tips Roch :)
 
gouki16 said:
Sorry for the double post, but I think? I've fixed the issue. I think it was bad contacts on the dip switches, as after some finessing, both the difficulty and continue options now work. I'm still not 100% clear on what happened (I feel the underlining issue might still be eluding me), but after trying some more SF2 and 3 Wonders, I can now continue. I wont be so much as breathing on these dip switches from here on out, out of fear something will happen!
Thanks again for all the tips Roch :)
Click to expand...
You're welcome :thumbup:. Maybe in the near future check the solders? (that's what I would do if I were you)
 
ekorz said:
If you downloaded a general mame set you have the wrong files, look for the prepared multipacks. Same overall data just arranged and concatenated to work, plus extra files to control the lcd, dash and qsound functions
Click to expand...
I downloaded the Pendragon set, which isn't prepared, is just the zip files, and doesn't unzip to a games folder. I can't find a prepared multipack on archive.org. Please could someone PM me a link as we aren't allowed to talk about this top secret multipack here? ;) Cheers.
 
gouki16 said:
Sorry for the double post, but I think? I've fixed the issue. I think it was bad contacts on the dip switches, as after some finessing, both the difficulty and continue options now work. I'm still not 100% clear on what happened (I feel the underlining issue might still be eluding me), but after trying some more SF2 and 3 Wonders, I can now continue. I wont be so much as breathing on these dip switches from here on out, out of fear something will happen!
Thanks again for all the tips Roch :)
Click to expand...

You could purchase and install one of @Mitsurugi-w 's Remote DIP Switch solutions to have fresh new functional DIP switches for your board.
 
Pardon moi again, @Darksoft,

I'm looking to upgrade from my ancient 16 GB Class 4 SDHC microSD card for the sake of way better loading speed (hopefully), and it's looking like this one might be one of the best options. Does the reader on the Multi support it?

SanDisk Extreme PRO 32GB UHS-I/U3 Micro SDHC

Thanks!

P.S. I just accidentally bought a SDXC card (D'oh!) which was not recognized on the Multi as these apparently only support exFAT or NTFS whereas we need FAT32 for the Multi. Returning that one shortly.... They had grouped it with a SDHC one as another options which pretty much threw me off.
 
Only SDHC work, the smaller size, the better. I recommend specially Samsung or Sandisk, but they must be from a trusted source, there is a lot of counterfeit around.
 
Darksoft said:
Only SDHC work, the smaller size, the better. I recommend specially Samsung or Sandisk, but they must be from a trusted source, there is a lot of counterfeit around.
Click to expand...

I recently recommended this one on another forum because it seemed to me that you had validated it:

71KB25eH4VL._AC_SL1168_.jpg


Please can you confirm?

Thanks,
 
Darksoft said:
Maybe someone close to you in New Orleans has one that can lend for you to test, but I'd go for another microSD first.
Click to expand...

I've tried multiple (6 - sandisk and transcend) microSDs at this point, but I am still getting sound cutting out on ALL games now, not just on SFII CE. I played a game of Strider yesterday and the music and the SFX kept cutting out. I bought another CPS1 board set in order to test if the A board is at issue, but I am wondering why the original ROM board didn't have issue with this A board.
 
Glad to hear it works. It's maybe some small fault that create some power noise which dont affect the Mask Roms but can make a lot of trouble with Multi. Hard to say but that would be my guess.
 
ekorz said:
If you put the old B board back on now, is it fine still?
Click to expand...

I will try it...I only have one C (90631C-5) board, and will have to redo the battery mod (it had the two pins tied to 5V, to make it battery-less when I got it, so now those pins are tied back to ground) to it for it to work again I suppose.
 
Heyo, got my C board from a forum member, and I just wanted to make sure that all I need to do are the following :

1. I remove the battery, and
2. I need to remove the solder bridge on the bottom of the chip as pictured here.

Is that correct? Just don't wanna mess anything up. Thank you all, can't wait to play some Slam Masters on a real cab again!

PXL_20220705_160759733.jpg
 
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