- Thread starter twistedsymphony
- Start date
SubScorpion
Student
I didn't do anything to the board. I got it from sheep_nova on ebay this way with those pins modified and was told it was multi ready. I was under the impression the blob joining pins 44-46 was just connecting them to ground. Is that wrong and should they be desoldered and each pin returned to their original traces?
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l_oliveira
Professional
Actually the only reason to remove the battery is any risk of leak. The battery being present or not means nothing to the capability of the multi re-write or not the key.
Because of that, you can use the CPS Multi as a key writer for other boards.
xodaraP
Legendary
@Mitsurugi-w and I got a batch of B21 and plan to do a small run of C boards to give them some use. It should take at least a month until we have something ready, so this is just a heads up. Until then, ebay is the place to go.
@xodaraP thanks for the ping. All my stock is reserved for the multis… if someone buys a kit without the C, I will have one however.
@sheep_nova is worth pinging as he can get these from time to time.
@sheep_nova is worth pinging as he can get these from time to time.
raidenmaniac1
Enthusiast
Could someone please PM a link to the unencrypted ROM pack ? I can not find it on archive dot org . thank you.
ShootTheCore
Legendary
I sent you a PM, but be aware that the CPS1 Multi only runs the original Capcom ROMs.
l_oliveira
Professional
Actually, it runs anything but it has to be on the original Capcom ROM format. The team converted a couple of hacks/bootlegs to the format the CPS1 multi needs. Some bootlegs are not actually CPS1 hardware but custom pirate boards with extra code added to the ROMs. Those won't run on the multi indeed.
Exactly what Leo said. Those bootlegs kind of "guessed" how the original worked. Sometimes with more success than others, so the hacks need to be modified to work on a original CPS1!
Yes, you read it right. It sounds a bit crazy to have to hack bootlegs so they work on original CPS1, but that's what it is. In some cases they even used some weird bootlegs of B21 that worked completely different to the original ones, adding an extra layer of complexity. If someone with the time and skills could fix those, I'm sure that they could be included.
Yes, you read it right. It sounds a bit crazy to have to hack bootlegs so they work on original CPS1, but that's what it is. In some cases they even used some weird bootlegs of B21 that worked completely different to the original ones, adding an extra layer of complexity. If someone with the time and skills could fix those, I'm sure that they could be included.
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@Mitsurugi-w should have some for sale very soon. We'll post about it as soon as we are ready to ship.
solderchicken
New User
Hi all
I have two CPS1 A+B+C.
One is a mint original SF2CF that I would like to preserve
The other (bought recently with a multi in mind) is a 12mhz DASH A with a 3 Wonders conversion B and a modified 92641C-1 C board. (Pics attached)
I believe the instructions in the post
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...e-for-the-cps1-multi.13106/page-7#post-299448
tell me I need to tie pins 45 & 46 to GND to restore the bodge.
I think my 45/46 have been lifted and tied to +5V on the diode D1?
Could I simply tie this bodge wire to GND? The vias beneath pins 41-49 look like GND? Havent got the meter out yet...
It looks like the original traces for pins 45/46 were originally tied to GND? I could solder these pins back down but am worried I may break them in doing so.
Am I on the right track here, and what would be the easiest/least dangerous way to restore this C board to unmodified.
Thank you in advance!
I have two CPS1 A+B+C.
One is a mint original SF2CF that I would like to preserve
The other (bought recently with a multi in mind) is a 12mhz DASH A with a 3 Wonders conversion B and a modified 92641C-1 C board. (Pics attached)
I believe the instructions in the post
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...e-for-the-cps1-multi.13106/page-7#post-299448
tell me I need to tie pins 45 & 46 to GND to restore the bodge.
I think my 45/46 have been lifted and tied to +5V on the diode D1?
Could I simply tie this bodge wire to GND? The vias beneath pins 41-49 look like GND? Havent got the meter out yet...
It looks like the original traces for pins 45/46 were originally tied to GND? I could solder these pins back down but am worried I may break them in doing so.
Am I on the right track here, and what would be the easiest/least dangerous way to restore this C board to unmodified.
Thank you in advance!
Attachments
solderchicken
New User
Many thanks sir!You can solder PIN 45, 46 and 47 together. PIN 47 goes precisely to ground.
Just curious about something here.
Can the multi be used to re-programme suicided C boards? As in, use the un-modified C board with battery to load the related game, thus writing the keys back to the battery?
Can the multi be used to re-programme suicided C boards? As in, use the un-modified C board with battery to load the related game, thus writing the keys back to the battery?
