Tornadoboy
Student
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2016
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 7
Yeah, it's simply called "Test Tape" and the ROM files are available for and supported by MAME, I let them know this on KLOV and I think they're looking into it.
---> Get your Deco multigame Here <---
- Thread starter Darksoft
- Start date
kspiff
Student
I'm putting this into a cab with a control panel window for an instruction card. I've got all my artwork together, but are there any instructions for kit operation I should put on it? Like p1 + p2 start to reset to menu or other bits?
Going to put a lit Darksoft/Walsdawg logo insert on the coin door, too.
Going to put a lit Darksoft/Walsdawg logo insert on the coin door, too.
I'm finishing the instructions but basically, you just need to do 2 things:
1) Put the multigame PCB in the slot where the dongle would usually go.
2) Replace the BIOS with the one supplied by us. Note where the notch is on the old bios eprom before replacing it.
There are 2 types of Deco revisions so find out first which one you have. Some have the PCBs names ending in -3 and some in -8.
For the ones ending with -3, you'll need to remove the 2 old bios Eproms. They are on the DSP3 board and are labeled p0 and p1. The bios chip installes in place of p1. P1 is the one that's more towards the center of the board.
In the -8 version install on the board labled RMS8. The bios is below dip switch 1.
3) You can leave the tape deck but I recommend to unplug it.
1) Put the multigame PCB in the slot where the dongle would usually go.
2) Replace the BIOS with the one supplied by us. Note where the notch is on the old bios eprom before replacing it.
There are 2 types of Deco revisions so find out first which one you have. Some have the PCBs names ending in -3 and some in -8.
For the ones ending with -3, you'll need to remove the 2 old bios Eproms. They are on the DSP3 board and are labeled p0 and p1. The bios chip installes in place of p1. P1 is the one that's more towards the center of the board.
In the -8 version install on the board labled RMS8. The bios is below dip switch 1.
3) You can leave the tape deck but I recommend to unplug it.
kspiff
Student
Well I had meant player instructions, like how to switch games. For visitors so I don't have to explain how.
Unless you just select a game on startup and have to power cycle to change.
Unless you just select a game on startup and have to power cycle to change.
For now, that's how it works
kspiff
Student
Wew, my kit is here. Sorta wish I had capped the monitor today now. 
Which pcb set do you have? We are working on bug fixes now. Affects the phat sets most it seems.
kspiff
Student
Slim set I assume (3-board). It surely did not have the weird automotive power connector.
Sets with the PCBs names ending in -3 like DSP3 or DMS3 are the old type. New type have ending with -8.
On both cases it will show some garbage on power on, just press 1P and it should show the menu.
Old type has some graphic glitches that I'm trying to fix. Luckily it will just require to reprogram the eprom(s).
On both cases it will show some garbage on power on, just press 1P and it should show the menu.
Old type has some graphic glitches that I'm trying to fix. Luckily it will just require to reprogram the eprom(s).
kspiff
Student
So with the BIOS replaced and the dongle unit detached, should I get a white screen? With the dongle attached, I get a bit of garbage and then it seems to reset accompanied by the power led on the board with the dongle connection fading off and back on.
Only replaced the chip under dip bank 1. Notch matches board screening.
Wouldn't have anything to do with using 12v from a switcher for 13v would it? Or tape related dip switches?
Only replaced the chip under dip bank 1. Notch matches board screening.
Wouldn't have anything to do with using 12v from a switcher for 13v would it? Or tape related dip switches?
kspiff
Student
I can't now unfortunately. I corrected dip settings per troubleshooting guide in the manual and popped in my Widel kit. Adjusted 5v down to a just over 5v (was around 5.19 at first). That sort of worked, but I had graphic glitches and games wouldn't load. Then it just froze up while fiddling with the volume control.
Aaaaand now it's dead. Nothing pops up when powered on at all. With either kit. So I guess something failed.
Aaaaand now it's dead. Nothing pops up when powered on at all. With either kit. So I guess something failed.
kspiff
Student
The only relevant detail I can think of to add is that dip sw1 5 and 6 were on at first when it was resetting and power led was fading in and out. Not sure what that might affect though.
If you have also a widel kit and doesnt work, then it's clearly a proble with your setup. I've used 12V only and worked for me. I don't have the wiring schematics right now, but I'm sure someone here can help.
How long since you last used it? Have you tried resitting the boards and cleaning the contacts? Any signs of broken caps or some other IC burnt?
PLMK.
kspiff
Student
Yeah I seem to have just run into an issue with my boardset. Not the kit. It was running before to the tape error screen (never tried the tape deck, so beyond that I don't know).
Took it out, cleaned edge connectors, changed some dips, installed multi. Not working (doing the fading off/on tape deck power LED and reset on garbage screen with dongle, and white screen without).
Took it out, put SW1 dips 5 and 6 to off as the manual insists upon (initially went by some damn MAME generated dip settings). Installed Widel multi. And at that point, it booted again, no more tape deck power LED bullshit. BUT unlike originally the multi menu had incorrect characters, the tape loading screen was a mass of garbage. And then eventually it would crash.
And then while messing with the volume (sound was faint), the screen froze. Blank screen from there on, both kits.
TL;DR: As near as I can figure it went from probably working to not working to 50% working to seemingly dead. By virtue of dipswitch settings. Or my board just randomly crapped out.
I'm replacing the electrolytic caps this morning, tried shotgunning the 6502, cleaning socketed chips and ohming out socket traces. I ordered a board to vulture the custom 6502 from if needed. Not giving up on this.
Took it out, cleaned edge connectors, changed some dips, installed multi. Not working (doing the fading off/on tape deck power LED and reset on garbage screen with dongle, and white screen without).
Took it out, put SW1 dips 5 and 6 to off as the manual insists upon (initially went by some damn MAME generated dip settings). Installed Widel multi. And at that point, it booted again, no more tape deck power LED bullshit. BUT unlike originally the multi menu had incorrect characters, the tape loading screen was a mass of garbage. And then eventually it would crash.
And then while messing with the volume (sound was faint), the screen froze. Blank screen from there on, both kits.
TL;DR: As near as I can figure it went from probably working to not working to 50% working to seemingly dead. By virtue of dipswitch settings. Or my board just randomly crapped out.
I'm replacing the electrolytic caps this morning, tried shotgunning the 6502, cleaning socketed chips and ohming out socket traces. I ordered a board to vulture the custom 6502 from if needed. Not giving up on this.
kspiff
Student
It's the "8" boards.
