Rhythm Tengoku Panel

I always wanted a Rhythm Tengoku Panel for my Naomi Universal Cab. After seeing skate's Panel, I reached out to Alberto.
He said that he already had a panel that would fit the original Sanwa buttons, just in smaller sizes to fit the available space. After a Rakuten -> Buyee journey I had the buttons in hand and Alberto sent me a panel.
As always the quality of the panel is fantastic and the buttons were a perfect fit. Alberto also sent me the stickers that go into the buttons.

After a lot of crimping I had the buttons wired up. Two connectors for P1/P2 and a third custom one for the lights.


The panel is a perfect fit and works great.


To make the lights work I had to switch the I/O in my NUC from a type 1 to a type 3.


Buttons used are:

2 x OBSAX-C30UM (Start Button)
4 x OBSAX-C45UM (A/B Buttons)
8 x OBSAX-C30UK (Directional Buttons)

bought from the Sanwa Denshi Store on Rakuten via Buyee:
https://buyee.jp/rakuten/shopping/store/top/sanwadenshi

thanks a lot to Alberto for the fantastic work on his panels!

Beautiful

Amazing work. We’re the buttons costly?

the buttons are quite expensive but I was able to buy them without the LEDs. That brought the price down by about 7 USD per button which is a lot. Then I just installed normal 5V LEDs. The sockets in the buttons can handle up to 30V.

Great work! The illumination wiring is totally worth the IO upgrade, it's so nice how the game instructions light up the buttons to show you how to play each minigame.

thanks skate, your post really triggered this build. I am waiting for some RGB stripes to put them near the speakers and wire them up on the I/O. Should be fun.

Nice job on the harness!

I'd love to have something similar for an Egret 2 Great job!

fuzzbuddy said:

I'd love to have something similar for an Egret 2 Great job!

Click to expand...

reach out to Alberto, he can adjust the cutouts in the panel for other buttons. Maybe he can work something out for the Egret 2.

updated the first post with reference numbers for the buttons.

Hey nnap, sorry to resurrect such an old thread but inspired by your post I also reached out to Alberto for a Rhythm Tengoku panel and I just received it a few days ago. It looks truely stunning (though unfortunately I did put on the A sticker a little too sloppy)! I do have one issue however, The right P1 button and the P1 start always seem to light up. The switch works, but the light doesn't respond to the game and it's just always on for just those two buttons.

I'm also using a type 3 I/O and the harness from Alberto. If I switch the cables to a different button it also lights up, so i'm assuming it's either the I/O or the harness is wired incorrectly. Any of this sound familar to you? Any thoughts how I can start troubleshooting this? Thanks!

looking nice! On the buttons you sort of have 5V, Ground, Button Signal and Light Signal. I could imagine if the Ground and Light Signal were switched, the button would be lit all the time. Check the order of the cables on the connector to those buttons versus the rest. You can also check if those 2 buttons work in the IO test.

Thanks! I'll run the I/O test first and see what the results are, and take out the multimeter to check the pinout.

wow 7$ ? these suckers went up in price. did you have to contact them to buy them without the LEDs ?
https://buyee.jp/rakuten/shopping/s...i/0?translationType=&sort=1&query=OBSAX-C45UM

they normally have 2 listings. One with and the other without led.

I finally had some time to bust the multimeter out and below are the readings I'm getting. I'm definitely not an expert in electronics, but from what I gather Pin 1 is GND, Pin 2 is switched 12V for the light, Pin 3 is the button switch (I get continuity over 3 & 4 when pressed), Pin 4 is constant 12V.

The fully working buttons have 12V over pin 1 & 2 when ON, and 0V when off. I have two types of buttons that don't work, some that always have the lights on and others are always off (the button switches work for all of them). The always on buttons are kinda dim and I only measure 7.1V across pin 1 & 2. The only real difference between the always on and always off seems to be the 5.2V across pin 2 & 4.

I'm kinda lost from here. Anyone have any ideas? What's the best way to further narrow it down? If anyone with more knowledge of electronics who would be willing to share their thoughts on this, would highly appreciate it!

See below for all measurements I jotted down:

Properly working button (Light ON):
Pin 1 & Pin 2: 12V
Pin 1 & Pin 3: 6.8V
Pin 1 & Pin 4: 12V
Pin 2 & Pin 3: -4.7V
Pin 2 & Pin 4: 0V
Pin 3 & Pin 4: 4.5V

Properly working button (Light OFF):
Pin 1 & Pin 2: 0V
Pin 1 & Pin 3: 6.9V
Pin 1 & Pin 4: 12.2V
Pin 2 & Pin 3: 0V
Pin 2 & Pin 4: 0.4V
Pin 3 & Pin 4: 4.6V

Non-functional button (Always ON):
Pin 1 & Pin 2: 7.1V
Pin 1 & Pin 3: 6.9V
Pin 1 & Pin 4: 12.2V
Pin 2 & Pin 3: 0.2V
Pin 2 & Pin 4: 5.2V
Pin 3 & Pin 4: 4.7V

Non-functional button (Always OFF):
Pin 1 & Pin 2: 6.9V
Pin 1 & Pin 3: 6.9V
Pin 1 & Pin 4: 12.2V
Pin 2 & Pin 3: 0.2V
Pin 2 & Pin 4: 0.9V
Pin 3 & Pin 4: 4.7V

Finally got to spend some more time on it, if I go by the pinout posted by @FrancoB in the other Rhythm Tengoku panel thread (linked in the first post) everything that's listed as going to the 60-pin connector was instead going to the 26-pin connector (CN6), which explains it's just the 6 buttons on the left that are malfunctioning. I just plugged it into the analog controls connector not knowing what it was, simply because the 8-pin connector fit...



I suppose I just need to expand the JVS harness by adding pins to the 60 pin connector. Is that also what you did, @nnap ? Looks like all pins are currently unused on my connector (except pin 51, which attaches to some loose mistery connector).

Yes, that is what I did. Also took the 12V from there.

Ok, thanks, appreciate the pic! And you then have these wires running to a new AMP U-P connector that you only plug-in when you have the Tengoku panel connected, right? I believe I can also spot an AMP connector in your harness pic? Time to buy some crimping equipment I think