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4 Player IGS PGM adapter (cable replacement)

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Those HAS PCBs look great!

thought I would share the solution I came up with, I remembered this morning I had a Preciva Dupont criming set I used for another job agesss ago.
Turns out the Dupont plugs fit the headers perfectly so I made myself a little adapter up using the DB15 breakouts I have used for other projects in the past.

it aint perfect but it works perfectly :)
 

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titchgamer said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Those HAS PCBs look great!

thought I would share the solution I came up with, I remembered this morning I had a Preciva Dupont criming set I used for another job agesss ago.
Turns out the Dupont plugs fit the headers perfectly so I made myself a little adapter up using the DB15 breakouts I have used for other projects in the past.

it aint perfect but it works perfectly :)
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I need to build, p3 & p4 to DB15 breakouts. Do you have the accurate pinout available for this? I've read earlier in the thread that some of the pinout diagrams available online are not right and I'd rather save myself the headache before I attempt to wire this up.
 
Cool, so 1x 34 pin IDE connector to a jamma fingerboard, about a couple of meters of cable and jobs a goodun :) Possibly with a phat resistor on the fingerboard just to keep the local switcher in cab 2 in check.
 
Flinnster said:
Cool, so 1x 34 pin IDE connector to a jamma fingerboard, about a couple of meters of cable and jobs a goodun :) Possibly with a phat resistor on the fingerboard just to keep the local switcher in cab 2 in check.
Click to expand...

I tried the 34pin IDE connector but found the wire far to brittle and was getting continuity failures so I would avoid the PC IDE cables.

But the duponts I used with slightly thicker wire worked a treat :)
 
I came up with this:
IMG_20201223_124442_s.jpg


I'll have to make at least one revision to move the connector a bit, as a shielded connector overlaps the footprint for the service button. (Even though most people most likely never populate the button, or just use a simple pin header...)

The disadvantage of this design is that it doesn't allow powered controllers, like anything that requires a microcontroller for auto fire or protocol conversion. (If people need that then they'll need either the HAS design or Frank's Minigun.)

I just had a quick test and all buttons work, including test and service. (Even though I'm not sure if they are used for anything...)
 
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Wow, neat. I like the USB power idea. The IO test menu shows all 4 controllers and all buttons.

I was planning to wait until I've tested them a bit more, but here are the Gerber files for mine. This is a slightly newer version than the one I tested, I moved the pin header a bit so you can use a shrouded version with key. Schematics as well.

Keep in mind:
- no 5V power so will not work with anything that uses active electronics
- no warranty

I am not going to develop this any further, this was mostly for research and it has done that job.

Update, new PCB day:
IMG_20210216_131355.jpg

I tested this with my PGM and all buttons work. There is enough room for a shrouded connector, to prevent misaligned or rotated connections.

IMG_20210216_130414.jpg

I circled pin 1 on both, though if you use an old floppy connector cable there should be only one way to connect them.

IMG_20210216_130649.jpg

Any leftovers can be used as a breakout board when wiring a controller from cheap eBay junk.
 

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Hmm... the oshpark design seems to be based on the junkerhq pinout.
 
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