A mouse f****** my Cyber Lead. Time for a restoration.

[killer7]

This is coming along so amazingly. Would you mind sharing photos of the LED Marquee wiring once you've installed it. I've always struggled to get mine going and the references online haven't been so clear. I bought some replacement parts from Yaton to finish. Thanks for all the inspiration!

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

Things getting a little bit tricky now with re-installing the wiring. There’re many many wire ties and I’m not convinced all are needed. I don’t think this would have looked much neater from the factory. I salvaged a couple of the ordinal adhesive wire ties and added a couple of new ones. The JAMMA/JVS converter board has a lot of heavy cables hanging off it. I’ll adjust the position of this on the PCB board and push it further back in the machine so the front door doesn’t push against them and I’ll also look at putting some sort of relief strap to hold them up.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

This is coming along so amazingly. Would you mind sharing photos of the LED Marquee wiring once you've installed it. I've always struggled to get mine going and the references online haven't been so clear. I bought some replacement parts from Yaton to finish. Thanks for all the inspiration!

Thanks for encouragement Sure I’ll post them. Fingers crossed I get it working myself.

 

[JohnRambo'sKnife]

This will look incredible when finished. These things have such great screens and I absolutely love the design.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

This will look incredible when finished. These things have such great screens and I absolutely love the design.

Thanks, I agree. It’s going to look great. They’re such interesting machines. I’m hoping it will be finished in 24 hours - providing the chassis works and I can get the image dialled in. The decals might be ready. Will wait and see.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

Today was more cable routing tidying and experimenting with the position of the JVS/JAMMA board. I’m having to thoroughly review my photos and look at the manual to get my head around positioning of the 3 x USB and 3 x VGA cables. I also put the chassis back in the monitor frame and will get that installed tomorrow.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I got a test print of the artwork I had done. It was a bit muted so I went to the local design studio and tried to match some of the original colours with the Pantone swatches they had. Most of the colours except a couple were so close it was tricky to find an exact match - but I did adjust the yellow and violet. The graphic designer at the studio believed that the original was likely a screen print which is why is looks so vivid and glossy.

Original and test print.

This is the final version I’m going with. It cost me a fair bit to reproduce and I have to call it done. Just couldn’t quite get that bluey purple 100%.

 

[Offsider]

A number of these parts were raw metal and therefore the grounding/earthing path wasn’t a problem. Now with the powder coat I’ve had to Dremel off some coating and insert a bit of earth braid to bring things back to normal. I’ll have to do more if this on a couple of rear panel mounting brackets and the rear panel itself.

Made this same mistake myself with those top brackets mate, didn’t realise there was continuity all the way along the top of the cabinet to the rear panel with the braid running along

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

The monitor is back in now. I did this solo by laying a piece of plywood with a foam tile under it on the metal subframe and then lifting the tube onto that. I could then shuffle the tube back until it lined up with the studs and lift it on with one last little heave.

The last little coin chute is on.

And I’ve re-stuck this plastic protective sheet to the bottom on the screen.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I cut some ~12mm x 3mm foam down the middle and applied that as the bezel seal.

@killer7 here’s the finished LED display connections.

I used some of these chunky washers on the top part of the machine. They’re from eBay etc and used to pimp out car engine covers I believe. The original screws were corroded and really crushing into the plastic so I needed to spread the load on the newly painted surface.

They’ll also help to spread the load on the marquee perspex. I didn’t have enough spare screws to do all black or all silver and I quite like the security Torx black anyway.

On the home straight now.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I’m still tinkering with some repro artwork. I designed some instruction space art that I’m quite proud of. I had some space on the sheet for some of the decals as well so I had them printed at Office Works. $12 all up. The decals aren’t sticky but I reckon I can laminate them and put double sided tape or adhesive sheet on the back and make some stickers. Check out how vivid the pro prints are compared to my home Brother inkjet.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I’ve reassembled the control panel. I’d already tidied up the panel months ago by fixing up wiring, rebuilding some LS-40 joysticks and respraying the panel itself. I was tempted to put in a new old stock 1p panel but stuck with a cleaned up 2p panel.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

Anyone with a Cyber Lead knows one of its downsides is the clunky control panel removal. Because of the gold powder coat I had trouble fitting both the hinge rod to the mounts and then slotting the hinge rod into the receiver. I had to ream out the hinge holes with a drill and the receiver space with a dremel. Once in it’s looking awesome.

The paint finish on the control panel surround is quite nice but not super glossy. In order to make it really glossy I would have had to lay down more paint and it would just end up running over the edge - then I’d have to repeat on the other edge. So a decent coat that I’d then polish had to do. There’re a few sanding scratches that are still visible if you look really closely but it’s good enough for me.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I’m still waiting on some pins to come from RS components but want to start testing the machine - so I did some micro surgery on the power connector to the “code box” that the mouse had chewed off at the worst possible spot. I was able to de-pin the connector, pry open the cable crimp, solder the new wires, heat shrink, reset the retaining flap and then re-insert in the connector.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

Cable routing is a real art. The code box goes deep into the machine and I need heaps of slack to be able to pull the PCB board out and not rip off cables. It’s a WIP.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I’ve started checking the earth/ground is working from various points inside the cab. Seems good so far.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

This is where I ended up Sunday arvo. The marquee holder is on (plastic protection to be removed) and the front side nearly done. What’s left is to test the system and if working finalise the cable placement and get the code box and back panel earthed and installed.

 

[Offsider]

I have no words mate…..
You’ve done that cabinet justice.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

I have no words mate…..
You’ve done that cabinet justice.

Cheers mate, appreciate it.

 

[Ziggy Cheetos Dust]

We have a picture . I still need to dial it in properly but it looks decent. A little shimmer in the picture maybe from the power supply? I can also hear a bit of a hum in the chassis/neck area that gets a bit stronger when the screen goes full-white. I’m not sure if this is normal or a sign of a failing component. Using my little JAMMA test PCB I also determined some buttons are funky. Pressing one activates another, another triggers the coin counter and a few other gremlins. One speaker is also louder than the other. It was like this before the resto so not sure what that could be. I’ll have to do some elimination testing with the various audio cables that this thing has.