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First batch now sold out. Thanks everyone for the inquires and support. I will do a second batch if enough people want them. Just reply to this thread or shoot me a PM. If I get around 10 interested people then I will do another small batch. Also, all the design and source files are freely available so people can build their own if they choose.
 
First batch now sold out. Thanks everyone for the inquires and support. I will do a second batch if enough people want them. Just reply to this thread or shoot me a PM. If I get around 10 interested people then I will do another small batch. Also, all the design and source files are freely available so people can build their own if they choose.
(in for two).

Thanks sir!
 
I got the printed pcb from oshpark.
I also got the JST and minimolex connectors and also the lcd.
I just need some questions please.
Which switch did you used for the lcd voltage display (i mean if you have a link to buy it)?
And also which part is the plastic screws you use to retain the lcd to the pcb?

Thanks.
 
I was directed to this thread. I've got plans to run a Naomi in the repro mini cute. This looks like the right solution. If you're close to a 10 piece batch, I'm down for one.
 
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The PSU in my AWSD is on it's way out. I'm certainly interested in one of the PCBs as well.
 
Wanted to post about my use case which may interest others. I picked up this PCB so that I can use it in my supergun setup and it works surprisingly well and adds a ton of flexibility.

Given that the PCB attaches to a PSU that puts out all of the JVS voltages, I built a JVS harness and hooked up my NAOMI first. The voltmeter is pretty accurate once calibrated and I appreciate the switch allowing you to check both 3.3V and +5V lines which are both adjustable on this PSU.

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The really great thing about this PCB is that you attach the DC harness via Molex connectors meaning you can easily swap harnesses. I figured I would build a harness and use for my HAS as well. As delivered, the PCB doesn’t have the -5V some JAMMA boards need for audio but that’s solved by setting a jumper switching two of the four 3.3V output pins to -5V.

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To summarize, while the PCB was designed to allow the Mean Well QP-150-3A to be used in an Atomiswave cabinet, it makes the PSU super flexible and a perfect supergun PSU for both JVS and JAMMA boards.
 
I’m interested in one unit. This is an awesome solution. Thanks!!
 
I have these available again. Please reach out to me via PM and I can get them built and shipped out in a few days after payment. Happy to see some repeat customers and @kikaso nice work on utilizing the -5V jumper. I was wondering if anyone would actually use that feature, glad you found some use for it as well.
 
could someone expkain how i would use this in a cute and use the -5 and still be able to use 3.3?
 
could someone expkain how i would use this in a cute and use the -5 and still be able to use 3.3?
See excerpt from my previous post👇
As delivered, the PCB doesn’t have the -5V some JAMMA boards need for audio but that’s solved by setting a jumper switching two of the four 3.3V output pins to -5V.
When will you need -5V and 3.3V wired up at the same time in a Cute? What is your use case?
 
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See excerpt from my previous post👇

When will you need -5V and 3.3V wired up at the same time in a Cute? What is your use case?
i switch alot. but i guess they dont need to be wired at same time. Could the pcb be adapted to use a switch right there instead of a solder pad jumper.
 
i switch alot. but i guess they dont need to be wired at same time. Could the pcb be adapted to use a switch right there instead of a solder pad jumper.
There’s no fast way to switch jumper as designed.

Do you need more than two 3.3V lines? Moving the solder jumper leaves you with two 3.3V and two -5V lines.
 

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There’s no fast way to switch jumper as designed.

Do you need more than two 3.3V lines? Moving the solder jumper leaves you with two 3.3V and two -5V lines.
sorry im horrible at wiring bare with me I understand now on the cute. I have a taito e3 i would like to use this in. If im gathering i would have to add a wire to jamma edge to get -5?
 
sorry im horrible at wiring bare with me I understand now on the cute. I have a taito e3 i would like to use this in. If im gathering i would have to add a wire to jamma edge to get -5?
My understanding is that the Egret 3 is not wired for JAMMA but for JVS. You can replace the PSU in that cabinet with a QP-150-3A and this AWSD interface PCB but JVS boards don’t require -5V.
 
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