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Blast City / Astro City / Astro City 2 / NNC - Restorations

Is there a way to adjust the contrast on an MS8-29fsg? Everything I'm reading says the contrast POT should be to the left of the RGB Gain POTS on the neck board but I don't see it. I think I'm looking at a slight variation and there is none and it's controlled by RGB gain.

Idk the picture looks washed out...and when a scene in a game changes the screen has a huge green \ yellow tint until the whole frame loads and then the green goes away. (ie in street fighter between rounds as the screen goes "black" it then turns "yellowish green" more than black briefly before the colors adjust back to how they should look.

Once the next round fully loads however that tint goes away.

ive adjusted SCREEN and FOCUS and R G B gain the best I can.

Here is an example. Pic 1 is yellowish and Pic 2 returns to correct “tint” a few frames later.

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I’m thinking maybe gray is missing?

This menu is gray on my og astro

But yellow on the Astro 2

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There are red, green, and blue electron guns in the CRT. If you’re seeing yellow where it should be gray, you are probably having an issue with the blue gun as red and green make yellow.
 
There are red, green, and blue electron guns in the CRT. If you’re seeing yellow where it should be gray, you are probably having an issue with the blue gun as red and green make yellow.
isnt this issue brother like the one was happened to me on my NAC with MS8-29 chassis ? seems he have the same kind of issue ...
 
Yes, it’s similar. It’s possible the chassis needs a reflow.
I sent the chassis to sharp image repair and had them recondition it. Assume they would reflow solder if needed. Crying now.

This is not a situation for a rejuvenator could it?

----

If I had an MS-9 and tube could i swap it? Not liking MS-8s rn lol.
 
Did a reflow fix your issue?
Only i reflowed the remote but didnt improved someting and after i tweeked little bit on chassis colours knobs , he was fine for little time but problem appeared again . i decide to replace chassis (in my case , my NAC - when i purchased - arrieved with MS8-29 chassis instead ms9-29 ... the yoke is for ms9-29) . now im in the WIP (im waiting some connectors to can use again the cab . hopefully the ms9 i have will working .

Anyway , my ms8-29 was serviced by chinesse seller arcade shop center or his tehnicians . it doesnt look in the best shape on the solder side , on component side is fine.

Best is to use ms9-29 .

On the other hand , when i did my homeworks i ordered second cab from him , this time was Astro City 2 (this come with ms9-29 installed - i asked for this)
 
Only i reflowed the remote but didnt improved someting and after i tweeked little bit on chassis colours knobs , he was fine for little time but problem appeared again . i decide to replace chassis (in my case , my NAC - when i purchased - arrieved with MS8-29 chassis instead ms9-29 ... the yoke is for ms9-29) . now im in the WIP (im waiting some connectors to can use again the cab . hopefully the ms9 i have will working .

Anyway , my ms8-29 was serviced by chinesse seller arcade shop center or his tehnicians . it doesnt look in the best shape on the solder side , on component side is fine.

Best is to use ms9-29 .

On the other hand , when i did my homeworks i ordered second cab from him , this time was Astro City 2 (this come with ms9-29 installed - i asked for this)

Yeah im thinking maybe just get an ms-9 instead of struggling with the ms8

Are you using the MS-8 tube with the MS-9 chassis?

Or do you need a matching tube that came with the ms-9 chassis?
 
Yeah im thinking maybe just get an ms-9 instead of struggling with the ms8

Are you using the MS-8 tube with the MS-9 chassis?

Or do you need a matching tube that came with the ms-9 chassis?
The tubes are the same, unluckely the yoke are not, in order to use an ms9 chassis you should also swap the yoke but the ms8 is far sharper than ms9, you should fix this chassis! In my opinion ms8 is less reliable but it has best quality picture in 15Khz
 
I think it’s definitely a gray issue

This is the gray test pattern from the 240p test suite

IMG_8628.jpeg
 
Yeah im thinking maybe just get an ms-9 instead of struggling with the ms8

Are you using the MS-8 tube with the MS-9 chassis?

Or do you need a matching tube that came with the ms-9 chassis?
The tube in my NAC is June 1996 (6F) , yoke is ms9 , but he cut the connectors that comes on ms9 yoke and put ones to work on ms8 in my case . See on the tube what stickers you have on them and also what yoke you have to see if you need to change the yoke too

In the picture is how it looks on what he did on wires yoke
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I contacted Sharp and they said they’d take a look. They think it is what he referred to as the color amplifiers on the chassis and replacing them. When I take the chassis and tube out I’ll
snap some pics of the yoke. Fingers crossed that will fix it.

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Just realized my marquee light isn’t working on the Astro 2. Does anyone know if it’s this one or this one to replace?

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The manual lists it as -> DULUX S 5W/21 (390-5327)
 
So just noticed on the Astro 2 my marquee light isn’t working. I ordered a new bulb but still no luck. All I can think of is the coil ballast is no good?

Also since the monitor is out not sure if that matters I touched the top of the unit while the unit was on to test voltage going to the light and heard a loud feedback thru the speakers.

Not sure if I hooked up grounds wrong causing that noise or what could be wrong with the light. We are getting voltage on the wires going into the ballast

I’m also detecting voltage on the cabinet pretty much all over but I’m not getting zapped.

I turned off the amp and the feedback noise went away.

My og astro has voltage on the ground wires too and the cabinet so pretty confused rn.
 

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Am I missing convergence strips on the left side?

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