Blast City / Astro City / Astro City 2 / NNC - Restorations

[Segafan1985]

So I know there is a lot of back and forth on how to clean. I’ll be sending the monitor components to Sharp Image Repair in Vegas but not sure what you recommend for cleaning the actual tube itself?

I know some say water some say no so curious what your guys’ opinions are. Thank you!

 

[scooby]

Simple Green and water worked a charm for me

 

[tDRG]

Looking good! You'll want to discharge the monitor and take the anode cap off before doing anything else (and probably should do that before removing the monitor in the future). Lots of YouTube videos on how it's done, I don't have any in particular to recommend.

 

[Segafan1985]

Looking good! You'll want to discharge the monitor and take the anode cap off before doing anything else (and probably should do that before removing the monitor in the future). Lots of YouTube videos on how it's done, I don't have any in particular to recommend.

We used the screwdriver alligator clip method to try to discharge. We didn’t hear any pop but it had already been off for over 24 hrs and unplugged. We then used a multimeter and detected no charge. Do I just pull the anode cap off? We put the screwdriver under it but didn’t wanna damage so we took a break.

 

[nem]

All newer Japanese arcade chassis have bleeder circuits that drain the tube of electricity after power-off. If the monitor has been turned off for 5 minutes, you can just take the anode cap off with bare hands and not worry about it.

You're just scratching up the glass and the coating around the anode when discharging it manually. That damage could lead to arcing when the monitor is on.

 

[tDRG]

You're just scratching up the glass and the coating around the anode when discharging it manually. That damage could lead to arcing when the monitor is on.

Any way to reapply coating if it's already been scratched a little? Mine has a few scratches down at the bottom.

 

[Segafan1985]

Anybody had trouble pulling out these 2 cables? The board starts to bend when using pliers. I really gave it some muscle but don’t wanna break it.

 

[nem]

Those two connectors are soldered. I think they can be pulled off at the other end though.

Your anode coating looks fine. It has to look much worse than that to be an issue.

 

[Segafan1985]

Used a soft bristle brush and vacuum. Gonna wash off the tube with the simple green and water tomorrow. Not gonna wash the boards will let Sharp Image Repair pros handle that part. Wish me luck.

 

[Catzoo]

Vacum isn't recommended though, it build a lot of static which isn't great for PCB / Ic's on the board. It won't instant kill it, but it is something to avoid in most cases

 

[Segafan1985]

Vacum isn't recommended though, it build a lot of static which isn't great for PCB / Ic's on the board. It won't instant kill it, but it is something to avoid in most cases

Shoot didn’t think of that

 

[Segafan1985]

That was kinda nerve racking but fun. Drying off with an oscillating space heater and used compressed air to try to dry trapped water as well. Sun dried for a little too. Just gotta package up my stuff and send off to Sharp Image Repair now

 

[Segafan1985]

 

[Segafan1985]

Excited to ship this out tomorrow!

 

[Segafan1985]

 

[Segafan1985]

Another round hit that little metal thing in the middle with crud cutter and one more vinegar bath and should be even crispier.

 

[Segafan1985]

Loading that desk on a truck to haul it away was a bitch lol. But now I have some room to start working with!

 

[advans14]

I hope you or them will be cleaning that chassis before putting back in the game. Yikes that is bad.

 

[Segafan1985]

I hope you or them will be cleaning that chassis before putting back in the game. Yikes that is bad.

Sharp Image Repair should be doing a full clean.

 

[advans14]

Very nice. You took a big gamble on this cab with a bum monitor. Did the monitor ever power on? Hopefully its just a chassis issue in shutdown not a tube issue.