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Bad_Hambre

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Starting to put mine together today. I am missing a few parts. I don't have the panel overlay, the metal coin bracket on the overlay, and missing 2 smaller buttons, P1/P2. I am already using Test/Service. I think thats it. I have the K7000 chasis and a compatible tube that I will be attempting to use. Hope it works.
 

hoagtech

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The 1p 2p were not included if you used them on the service buttons. You have to source x2 for the service and test panel

The metal cover, overlay, should be in the coin bucket door.
 

Bad_Hambre

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The 1p 2p were not included if you used them on the service buttons. You have to source x2 for the service and test panel

The metal cover, overlay, should be in the coin bucket door.
There was nothing in the coin bucket door on mine. For sure got a missing overlay and metal cover.
Also the part of the video he's installing around the 10:35 mark (coin mechanism?) Another part we have to source?

Missing the Cute overlay as well that goes on top. Those are the only 2 overlays? I got the Capcom decals.

Also missing the metal loops on top. Did not get anything that came from the coin bucket door.
 
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chowmarcus

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Ok so i found out my power supply was faulty so i have switched to a new one. Voltage is good and the game pcb will power on and play blind.

Now my problem is the monitor. The first monitor i have only gives out green. Probably the green gun is shorted in the tube? I will have to take this to PNL for repair.
20211015_235940.jpg





20211016_145313.jpg
my second monitor tested fine when i tested it outside of the cab. But after i have mounted it, it will immediately blow out the chassis fuse and the cab fuse. I have checked the wiring and they all look good and there is a ground wore connecting the neck board to the metal frame. What would be the problem here? For your reference the cab fuse is a fast blow 3A 250V and the chassis fuse is a slow blow 1.5A 250V.
 

hoagtech

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Ok so i found out my power supply was faulty so i have switched to a new one. Voltage is good and the game pcb will power on and play blind.

Now my problem is the monitor. The first monitor i have only gives out green. Probably the green gun is shorted in the tube? I will have to take this to PNL for repair.
20211015_235940.jpg





20211016_145313.jpg
my second monitor tested fine when i tested it outside of the cab. But after i have mounted it, it will immediately blow out the chassis fuse and the cab fuse. I have checked the wiring and they all look good and there is a ground wore connecting the neck board to the metal frame. What would be the problem here? For your reference the cab fuse is a fast blow 3A 250V and the chassis fuse is a slow blow 1.5A 250V.
You can check if it’s the tube or resistor by using an alligator clamp or jumper cables if you don’t have any. Clip one end to the frame and use the other end to poke each solder joint on the circle behind the neck card. Once you touch the R G and B it will fill the screen with that color. If you see that color then it’s most likely the RGB transistors on the neck pcb or the RGB channels are not connected
 
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hoagtech

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I went to hook up my RGBs and my PSU on both units are beeping and flashing a green light. I made sure to slide the internal switch to 115 VAC but am wondering what is making both my PSU's not working properly?

BE27-C98-F-65-C0-4919-81-F2-B39499774-A9-B.jpg

43680401-6954-4948-A50-F-7-F371-DC4041-C.jpg
 

meybarra

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I went to hook up my RGBs and my PSU on both units are beeping and flashing a green light. I made sure to slide the internal switch to 115 VAC but am wondering what is making both my PSU's not working properly?

BE27-C98-F-65-C0-4919-81-F2-B39499774-A9-B.jpg

43680401-6954-4948-A50-F-7-F371-DC4041-C.jpg

I think it's a limitation on this version of that Mean Well PSU. Specifically, they expect a minimum load before they'll operate. Some of my pcbs don't draw enough of a load, somI get the beeping and flasshing light. I'm planning to copy another forum member and add some resistors to trigger a minimum load:

Post in thread 'Budget Arcade Power Supplies'
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/budget-arcade-power-supplies.10294/post-200770
 

MudGuts83

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I'm getting closer.... about to order a few connectors needed for the k7000 tube swap. I want to build a set of wires to connect power from the chassis to the iso transformer. Anyone know the connector/pin combo used by Lemony used to connect to the flat tabs on the isolation transformer?
 

hoagtech

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I'm running into more issues with my under current protection on this Meanwell PSU.

My Mister wont send enough draw to the PSU and constantly resets because of the Beeping green light issue.

Can anyone reference the proper way to bypass the under current protection on this PSU or list a better switching PSU I could replace it with?
 

meybarra

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I haven't modified my RT 125A PSU yet, but I got impatient and tossed a MWP 606 into the repro cute. It solved my load issues with Mister Expander and MVS.
 

pbjr

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hoagtech, I’m having same problem. I purchased resistors from the post meybarra linked. I also purchased the last RT125A mouser had. Hoping it’s the newer version with no minimum load requirement.
 

hoagtech

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hoagtech, I’m having same problem. I purchased resistors from the post meybarra linked. I also purchased the last RT125A mouser had. Hoping it’s the newer version with no minimum load requirement.
I’ll just ask. Why can’t we bridge the connector on the overload protection circuit. Applying resistors to detect the load seems like overkill. Anyone tried this?
 

MudGuts83

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My repro mini cute is just about put together. Things left include installing the side art, the rubber foot pad, and the multiple stickers.

I definitely learned a lot.. and spent probably more on shipping than the cost of all misc. plastic bits and pins I ended up needing.

I ended up with 2 chassis. The k7000 had issues and will be rebuilt to serve as a backup. The second and what is installed is a k7203.

I'm not really a resource for technical info. I received a lot of assistance from Hursit's discord and those over on Tim the PGM Guy's discord.

All very much appreciated. Not done with the mini cute. I still need to copycat @kikaso 's naomi solution.
 

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theoddtech

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Hi all, Im going to need help as well. These are my first cabs. My first issue to figure out is how to mount the monitor as the holes do not align. I didn’t go with the WG and went with 19” VGA monitors instead.

Monitor bracket holes measure left to right is 16” and top to bottom is about 12.75”.
Cute holes are 17” and 13.25”.

Any suggestions on what to use? Thanks
So I'm finally getting around to actually assembling my cabs (I know, it's been almost a year), and ran into the same issue. I'm total trash at 3d modeling, but I was able to make the attached stl file.

If you print 2 normal, and 2 mirrored over the x axis (included both in zip) the cut corner faces out on the broad side of the monitor (top and bottom for yoko, left and right for tate). the bezel just covers the glass, which means you can't see into the cab, but anything on the front of the glass will be visible, though with smoked plexi it's not really an issue.

I used #10-32 x 1/2" cause that's what Home Depot had on hand, but M5 x 12 or 13 mm should also work with a washer on either side, and a nut to hold it in place. pics of it mounted: https://photos.app.goo.gl/DZNvZjAcNxY5mZjr8

of course you'll still need to take neck length and chassis size into account, but at least if you find a 19" pc crt that fits those requirements you can now mount it in the cute repros!

notes for printing:
I used PETG .2mm layers, 65% infill with gyroid pattern (available in cura, not sure about other slicers), and it came out really solid. I printed an extra 2 tabs just to try to break them and it took some effort.
 

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hoagtech

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@theoddtech

Nice. The PC monitors have their bracket alot closer to the front of the tube as well poking the neck out the back of repro mini. I used a PC monitor on mine successfully but haven't fashioned a gap bracket to bring the tube closer the front of the cute door. So I'm just rocking it with the back plate off currently. I did a live build on @hursit 's Discord a few months ago.

If you do print a few of these. Put me on your list please

Here's some pics of the journey.

Disassembly:

96-EA9-ECB-AF26-4-EDF-93-D4-16-E93-F5-EF30-F.jpg



Tube Drop:

99512-C32-1-D89-4839-B59-E-303-C5-CA56667.jpg


First test image

4-A1-D138-B-130-E-4-B6-B-ACEA-42831-A591145.jpg


A couple pics of the office Cutes:

BADDF500-5-F66-405-D-9170-AF3-EB3-C5487-B.jpg

3-A1-ED87-A-920-C-43-C1-8584-74882-BC6-CE36.jpg


If I had your mount converter. I could probably just switch to a long bolt with spacers to bring the tube closer.

Best of luck and thanks for sharing
 

theoddtech

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@hoagtech sure, I could do a run of a few sets for folks - @pbjr you want a set too?

say $5 a set? That should cover materials and a padded envelope


I'll start a list here, first 10 folks to respond I'll print some sets for ya!

1. @hoagtech x1
2. @pbjr ?
 
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