Yeah let me try a set. Thanks @theoddtech
- Thread starter hursit
- Start date
Back to the PSU Issue.
I cant use my "Arcade Cabinet" for the Jammaizer Mister combo because of load requirement of the PSU.
I ended up taking one of my Repro home for my living room and would love to order a replacement PSU.
@8bitforlife had mentioned the same model in the later production runs did not have a load requirement
Can anyone link me to a PSU I can purchase that doesn't have that load requirement?
I cant use my "Arcade Cabinet" for the Jammaizer Mister combo because of load requirement of the PSU.
I ended up taking one of my Repro home for my living room and would love to order a replacement PSU.
@8bitforlife had mentioned the same model in the later production runs did not have a load requirement
Can anyone link me to a PSU I can purchase that doesn't have that load requirement?
I love the RT-85A. Have owned several and have never had any load issues.Back to the PSU Issue.
I cant use my "Arcade Cabinet" for the Jammaizer Mister combo because of load requirement of the PSU.
I ended up taking one of my Repro home for my living room and would love to order a replacement PSU.
@8bitforlife had mentioned the same model in the later production runs did not have a load requirement
Can anyone link me to a PSU I can purchase that doesn't have that load requirement?
Isn't that the one that has the -5v incompatibility though? I think I remember you suggesting that in the discord. Unfortunately I own own bootleg Gunbird 2 so I want to make sure that wont be an issue with that PCB.
I was told the exact same model of the PSU we received for the "Arcade Machine" were fixed in later revisions but I dont know how to distinguish later production runs from buying the same model I own.
I am tempted to buy that model anyways, but I would love to know if their are any issues with -5V
Thanks @kikaso
Co-sign. Use this PSU on all my boards. No issues whatsoever. Bought from Digikey half a year ago, so I assume all their current stock doesn’t face the “load” issues from earlier revisions of the PSU.
No problems with -5v here @hoagtech
I personally haven’t had issues with the -5V but I wouldn’t rule it out for others. There’s a date code on the RT-125 but you have to disassemble. I know folks here have been able to return older revisions for a newer one but I don’t know which dates to avoid. Hopefully someone can chime in.
Right on. Good enough for me. I'm upgrading to RT-85A. Thanks for the words fellas.
I installed my RT-85A.
It solved my issue with Wyvern where the controls weren't working.
One thing to note is this PSU is much smaller than the one that came with the kit.
I improvised with a couple Legos and mounted it to one side of the mounting plate.
Ill run a test on the Jammaizer Mister combo and see if I run into trouble.
I didn't like digging into the back of the Minicute every time I wanted to adjust the 5v so I made this little remote box. Parts and STL on a longer post I made in the 3D printing subforum but thought other Minicute owners might find it useful.
Lemony Vengeance
Champion
I didn't like digging into the back of the Minicute every time I wanted to adjust the 5v so I made this little remote box. Parts and STL on a longer post I made in the 3D printing subforum but thought other Minicute owners might find it useful.
This is hot! I’m going to install this in all of my cabs
Can you add a mount for a switch to swap between voltages?
GeekMan1222
Grand Master
id be worried the knob would get bumped somehow. could probably add a flip up switch cover hehe
@Lemony Vengeance Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words. Indeed, I originally made this for the Minicute but quickly realized how it would be an improvement for all my cabs. So now they're all getting it. Good notion on a switch for 5v/12v
And sure I can add a switch mount, something like this should work yeah?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B099MH7...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
And sure I can add a switch mount, something like this should work yeah?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B099MH7...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Lemony Vengeance
Champion
Just thinking about it here… you would need to have two separate pots to keep the voltages where they needed to be after adjusting. The switch would be used to swap the LED between voltages.
But yea, that switch would work great
But yea, that switch would work great
@Lemony Vengeance
Ok, back from holiday and thinking about your requests for the 5v remote box. Got the switches so I can incorporate them into the model and it's clear how you could have the adjustable pot for 5v input into the switch as well as the 12v and then whatever is selected is displayed on the LED. Cool. For the 12v however, I don't see any where on the PSU for one to adjust it so why would one need a second pot? Easy enough to add, but I wanted to see what I was misunderstanding.
Ok, back from holiday and thinking about your requests for the 5v remote box. Got the switches so I can incorporate them into the model and it's clear how you could have the adjustable pot for 5v input into the switch as well as the 12v and then whatever is selected is displayed on the LED. Cool. For the 12v however, I don't see any where on the PSU for one to adjust it so why would one need a second pot? Easy enough to add, but I wanted to see what I was misunderstanding.
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Lemony Vengeance
Champion
oh, I was thinking more for JVS stuff LOL (so, 3.3v), sorry abotu that.
there really isn't a need to tweak the 12v voltage since it's usually just used for the sound amp on PCBs.
there really isn't a need to tweak the 12v voltage since it's usually just used for the sound amp on PCBs.
@Lemony Vengeance Ahhhh, I see. I don't run JVS stuff all that often so my head didn't go there.
Cool, so 2 pots, 1 LED, and a switch. I dig. Should be pretty simple to tweak the model.
Cool, so 2 pots, 1 LED, and a switch. I dig. Should be pretty simple to tweak the model.
I recommend the Visatons. You will need to slightly drill the holes a little bigger, but these are shielded and sound great.
Shielded speakers should be used to avoid any electronic interference with the monitor.
Im sure there will be others on this board who have a different experience, but as some one who has seen this damage before...get the shielded.
Fuck these guys and fuck that isolation transformer. Twisted Quarter sucks.
The isolation transformer (model ES-IT) was outputting a higher voltage than it was receiving, and when I emailed Andrew Dent, the "CEO" of Twisted Quarter, he ghosted me at the conclusion of the conversation. Andrew never replaced it, and he never refunded me. Fuck him. He's lost all my future business. The negative reviews on Twisted Quarter are correct. Believe the reviewers.
If anyone thinks "maybe rg111 got a one-off". Look at this video. This guy is having the exact same problem I did:
https://m.facebook.com/RetroRalphLL...im-not-responsible-if-you-b/2875377932782095/
I went with Arcade Parts and Repair, the rep was helpful and responsive, and the ISO tested out correctly.
Here's the correct transformer:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...es/monitor-isolation-transformer-120v-output/
Hey @Lemony Vengeance I got to modding the 5v case to the spec we were discussing. 2 pots, a switch, and the voltmeter. Check it out and shield your eyes from the gold knobs, they were the only color I have left at the moment 
It's a little tight in the case but shouldn't be too much trouble wiring everything together. The only place that's really on top of itself is with the pots but I'd just snip the legs and solder closer to pot pcbs. I wanted to keep the case as small and symmetrical as possible so this is where it landed.
The case has a groove that the switch fits into very snugly then the back has a piece that pressure fits it when the case comes together.
Everything is nice and snug. Should work pretty well from what I see. Lemme know what ya think. Easy to tweak at this point.
It's a little tight in the case but shouldn't be too much trouble wiring everything together. The only place that's really on top of itself is with the pots but I'd just snip the legs and solder closer to pot pcbs. I wanted to keep the case as small and symmetrical as possible so this is where it landed.
The case has a groove that the switch fits into very snugly then the back has a piece that pressure fits it when the case comes together.
Everything is nice and snug. Should work pretty well from what I see. Lemme know what ya think. Easy to tweak at this point.
Attachments
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Lemony Vengeance
Champion
HOT!! This is fantastic!
