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opt2not

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This is a perfect example of why the button remapping chip is such an essential upgrade for a project like this. The way buttons are mapped for some consoles just do not make any sense on an arcade control panel.
you do mention that this upgrade is a must.
Honestly, I think this feature should be in the default purchase and just embedded in the price. I don’t know why anyone would choose not to get this upgrade. Not having a remapping ability for a lot of console games would be just hell.
 

nonosto

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Hello how to do have a so contrasting and brilliant picture? How to use the video ampli? With RGB impedance adjustement pots?
 

djsheep

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Sent my MS9 chassis to Jomac for a refurb. They’ve looked that good ever since.
 

nonosto

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Sent my MS9 chassis to Jomac for a refurb. They’ve looked that good ever since.
Who is Jomac? A chassis tech? Is it in forum? So you dont touch the amplifier inside Jammazier?

NB: I find Jomac but work only with australian people. Do you know another tech?
 
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djsheep

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Hey @nonosto, I didn't need to adjust the amplifier pots on the Jammaizer. @Arthrimus sets them to perfect levels when he ships them out.

Jomac does work for Aussies exclusively, and out of respect for that, I won't accept anyone shipping me chassis for proxy to him. A few have asked, but this is unfair to his request and he's a top bloke that I hold in high regard.

@rewrite from this forum does recaps, but he might be USA only, however maybe he'll oblige and accept yours?

Maybe some European members know some options? I've seen some nice cab setups in Europe, so I assume there are still people able and servicing CRT's out there?
 

rewrite

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It probably isn't worth what it would cost to ship here and back unfortunately. :/

Willing to help, but it'd save a ton to find someone at least on the same continent.
 

RealMFnG

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I am willing to bet the farm that there is nothing wrong with nonosto's Toshiba PF in his NNC. He just needs to put in the sweat and calibrate his monitor on his own. Start here, put in the sweat by reading first, then figuring it on your own. Every monitor and environment it is in is different. I would suggest before fiddling with the calibration settings on a digital monitor, that you snap a photo of what values they are set at now. That way you can revert if needed. And learn how to reset to default. That is a luxury of digital monitors.
 

8bitforlife

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ok I'm a little confused. What items do I need and quantities for 2 player genesis saturn 360 and mame.
 

RealMFnG

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ok I'm a little confused. What items do I need and quantities for 2 player genesis saturn 360 and mame.
For Genesis support, you'll need an adapter of some sort (PSX-to-Genesis) or a pad hack. No way around that. Plus, you need a MC PCB if you don't go the way of a pad hack.

The PS360+ is the only MC PCB that supports both the Xbox 360 and Saturn. It is OOP however, so you can only find one used. If you can't find one, then you'll have to get a Brook UFB for Xbox 360 AND the EZ MC Cthulhu for Saturn.
 

garou81

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Is there a mc pcb that would support xbox 360 & ps2
And what scart cable for ps2 is recommended? Retro access has sync on luma and csync options



@acblunden2 man I love your avi
 

Arthrimus

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ok I'm a little confused. What items do I need and quantities for 2 player genesis saturn 360 and mame.
For Genesis support, you'll need an adapter of some sort (PSX-to-Genesis) or a pad hack. No way around that. Plus, you need a MC PCB if you don't go the way of a pad hack.
The PS360+ is the only MC PCB that supports both the Xbox 360 and Saturn. It is OOP however, so you can only find one used. If you can't find one, then you'll have to get a Brook UFB for Xbox 360 AND the EZ MC Cthulhu for Saturn.
That pretty much covers it. @8bitforlife you will probably also want to order the VGA hat option for XBOX 360 support. I'm trying to get MC cthulhu chips to use with my MC Cthulhu EZ PCB, but that process has been slow going and I'm still not sure if it's even going to happen. If you want to get up and running right away I would recommend purchasing Brook Retro Boards instead of my MC Cthulhu boards.
 

8bitforlife

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How would I connect mame?

I'm up too 2 mc 1 vga hat 1 console jammanizer and 2 pad hack boards.
 

RealMFnG

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Don't know what mult-console PCB you have, but ALL the MC console PCB's I'm aware of that have the 2x10 pin header are PC compatible (recognized as a USB Gamepad):
  • Toodles MC Cthulhu with or without Arthrimus's EZ PCB
    • Of course, easier with Arthrimus's EZ PCB
  • Akishops PS360+
  • Brook Retro
  • Brook UFB
  • Brook Zero Pi
There are 3 keys to achieve MAME connection:
  1. VIDEO: Have a 15khz MAME PC ready
    • I suggest using CRT Emu as ArcadeVGA has long since had its day in the sun
      • Don't bother enabling CSync in CRT Emu either. JAMMAizer's sync combiner has that covered
    • Plug such a PC's VGA cable into the the VGA hat and move the sync combiner to the on position
    • JAMMAizer will amp/clamp/DC couple the video output through the JAMMA edge to your cab
  2. AUDIO: Have a 3.5mm-to-3.5mm stereo jack cable ready
    • Plug it into your PC's stereo output
    • Plug the other end into the VGA hat
    • JAMMAizer will downmux the the line level stereo signal to mono, amp it, and send it out to JAMMA edge connector
    • Now, unless you have a stereo cab, then you will want to go with a 3.5mm-to-stereo RCA cable, then plug that into your cab's stereo amp
  3. CONTROLS: All are done via use of a RJ45-to-USB cable
Boot up your MAME box with a keyboard plugged in. Launch a game. Press TAB. Start mapping your keys (you only have to do this once). Once you've confirmed your button mappings are good, set a restore point in Windows. Now, shut down. Put away the keyboard for good. Boot up again and enjoy.

Can't be easier. Boom! /done
 
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RealMFnG

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Is there a mc pcb that would support xbox 360 & ps2
Just Akishops PS360+.

Sucks that the Brook Retro board doesn't currently support the Xbox 360. But of all of boards that might support it, only the Brook Retro has a fighting chance. In my situation, between the PS360+ and the MC Cthulhu, I got all the non-current gen consoles covered. The only non-current gen consoles not supported by those two boards, I'll pad hack and will solder to a 2x10 pin header. Little more work, but if I ever need to switch it out, easier and quicker than disconnecting everything from the EZ Pad Hack.
And what scart cable for ps2 is recommended? Retro access has sync on luma and csync options
Any non-Xrgb cable from retro access would work. JAMMAizer has a sync stripper built in. Sync-on-Luma and CSync SCART cables introduce redundant circuitry. But if I were to think it through, I would indeed get CSync cables or Sync-on-Luma (more of a lean towards CSync for ubiquity). Reason being is I might have another non-JAMMAizer application I'd want to use those cables with later down the line (OSSC or something).
@acblunden2 man I love your avi
Thanks dawg.
 
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RealMFnG

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Hey @Arthrimus

Regarding the MC Cthulhu EZ PCB, wondering if in verison 2.0, you could add from the PS360+'s original design:
  1. The alternative 4-pin USB solder points
    • All the Brook PCB's that have the 2x10 pin header have it
    • Also, the PS360+ has it as well
  2. The alternative RJ-45 hook-ups
    • Sadly, only the PS360+ has this and the Brook Retro doesn't
What do you think? More thoughts in the spoiler.

Why would I ask for this you are asking? Fightstick modding of course. The idea is to allow fightstick users to just open up their fightstick, pop the MC PCB off the pins (and needed stand-offs), and insert another MC PCB. Thereby rending the process of making the switch a 5 minute excercise. Today, folks either:
  • Have multiple fight sticks for each console
  • Dual mod their fight sticks which is an art (difficult) and is expensive
  • Use project boxes and D-Sub 25 connectors to make switchable console cables w/different MC PCB's in each project box
  • Spend the hour or so needed to wire in another MC PCB
But to make such an aspiration work, a breakout board similar to this (but for generica stick use) with the alternative RJ-45 hook ups must be designed too. Such a breakout board would have a USB-A connection and an RJ-45 jack too which would allow for external connection through Neutrik USB and RJ-45 jacks.
 

Arthrimus

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Pre-orders are officially closed. I've ordered all the remaining parts to fulfill this round so I should have all orders assembled and shipped within 2 weeks barring any delays with the parts that have been ordered.


Hey @Arthrimus

Regarding the MC Cthulhu EZ PCB, wondering if in verison 2.0, you could add from the PS360+'s original design:
  1. The alternative 4-pin USB solder points
    • All the Brook PCB's that have the 2x10 pin header have it
    • Also, the PS360+ has it as well
  2. The alternative RJ-45 hook-ups
    • Sadly, only the PS360+ has this and the Brook Retro doesn't
What do you think? More thoughts in the spoiler.

Why would I ask for this you are asking? Fightstick modding of course. The idea is to allow fightstick users to just open up their fightstick, pop the MC PCB off the pins (and needed stand-offs), and insert another MC PCB. Thereby rending the process of making the switch a 5 minute excercise. Today, folks either:
  • Have multiple fight sticks for each console
  • Dual mod their fight sticks which is an art (difficult) and is expensive
  • Use project boxes and D-Sub 25 connectors to make switchable console cables w/different MC PCB's in each project box
  • Spend the hour or so needed to wire in another MC PCB
But to make such an aspiration work, a breakout board similar to this (but for generica stick use) with the alternative RJ-45 hook ups must be designed too. Such a breakout board would have a USB-A connection and an RJ-45 jack too which would allow for external connection through Neutrik USB and RJ-45 jacks.
I'll look into this. I understand what you are asking for as far as the 4 pin USB header but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the alternative RJ45. Can you clarify this?
 

8bitforlife

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I didn't have the money this time around nurses are expensive.
 

RealMFnG

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I'll look into this. I understand what you are asking for as far as the 4 pin USB header but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the alternative RJ45. Can you clarify this?
Its just below the alternative USB solder header boxed in GREEN. Being so close to the 4-pin USB header might make it hard to install the pin header, even on the female mating side. But please see if its possible.


Screenshot from 2020-01-25 10-45-24.png


And here is the RJ-45 pinout. I'll source PS360+ for you if you decide to take it on.
Screenshot from 2020-01-25 10-46-02.png
RJ45-Pinout-T568A.jpg
 
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