I've noticed a lot of posts with confusion surrounding the different CPS1 A-Board differences. This confused me for a while as well when I was researching which boards to look for/buy. So I decided to piece together a guide.
CPS1 "Long" Board (10MHz)
Good for playing 10MHz games, also the largest PCB variant

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/EDviXRh.jpg
note that the audio chip is visible on the bottom left, is upright, and has a large heat sync, the volume knob is above the audio amp and the dip switches are perpendicular to the JAMMA edge.
CPS1 "Short" Board (10MHz)
Good for playing 10MHz games, also the smallest PCB variant

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/GTFN9Vr.jpg
note that the PCB is so short that you can't even see the audio chip under the B-Board, the audio amp is laid flat to fit under the B-board, the volume knob is moved to the left edge of the board so that it is still accessible and all of the dip switches are parallel with the JAMMA edge.
CPS1 "Dash" Board (12MHz)
Good for 12MHz games (some 10MHz games will run fast). this is the ideal candidate for a CPS1 multi

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/4e6k3q7.jpg
Dimensionally and layout-wise this is nearly identical to the "short" board. the easiest way to tell if it's a "Dash" board is to look for the "CPS-Dash" sticker behind the dip switches. outside of the sticker the only way to tell the difference is to look for the crystal and see if it's labeled as 12MHz or 10MHz. 12MHz games, as seen here, tend to have shorter b-boards exposing more of the A-Board below.
CPS1.5 "Q-Sound" Board (12MHz + Q-Sound)
only good for CPS1.5 games

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/8SD9L5K.jpg/
Q-Sound Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/SWDANNg.jpg
All of these games come in a black plastic case with a filter-board (in this picture you can see the lower half of the case and the filter-board), also note that there is an additional Q-SOUND PCB in the stack between the A and B boards which has audio chips is on the top left rather than the bottom left. The A board is similar to the CPS-Dash board but does not have the audio section populated.
Upgrading a 10MHz PCB to 12MHz
According to Apocalypse even if you do have a 10MHz board it can be upgraded to a 12MHz by replacing the crystal: Interest Check: Darksoft CPS1 Multi - Unofficial
Most games should work on either board, there will just be more slow-downs on the 10MHz variants.
This image shows where this crystal is located.
Here are the different games and which board they're compatible with:
10MHz (can only use 10MHz board)
1941: Counter Attack
Captain Commando
Carrier Air Wing/U.S. Navy
Dynasty Wars/Tenchi wo Kurau (12MHz version also available)
Final Fight
Forgotten Worlds/Lost World
Ganbare! Marine Kun
Ghouls'n Ghosts/Daimakaimura (12MHz version also available)
The King of Dragons
Knights of the Round
Magic Sword: Heroic Fantasy
Mega Twins/Chiki Chiki Boys
Mercs/Senjou no Ookami II
Nemo
Pokonyan! Balloon
Street Fighter II: The World Warrior
Strider/Strider Hiryu (12MHz version also available)
Three Wonders
U.N. Squadron/Area 88 (12MHz version also available)
Willow
12MHz (can only use "Dash" board)
Adventure Quiz Capcom World 2
Area 88 (10MHz version also available)
Daimakaimura (10MHz version also available)
Mega Man: The Power Battle/Rockman: The Power Battle
Pang! 3
Pnickies
Quiz & Dragons: Capcom Quiz Game
Quiz Tonosama no Yabou 2: Zenkoku-ban
Street Fighter II': Champion Edition
Street Fighter II': Hyper Fighting
Street Fighter Zero
Strider Hiryu (10MHz version also available)
Tenchi wo Kurau (10MHz version also available)
Varth: Operation Thunderstorm
Q-Sound (can only use "Q-Sound" board)
Cadillacs and Dinosaurs
Muscle Bomber Duo
The Punisher
Saturday Night Slam Masters/Muscle Bomber: The Body Explosion
Warriors of Fate/Tenchi wo Kurau II: Sekiheki no Tatakai/Sangokushi II
I'm still very much a CPS noob so please correct any inaccuracies I may have posted, but hopefully these pictures and descriptions will help people seek out and buy the right PCBs for their CPS projects.
CPS1 "Long" Board (10MHz)
Good for playing 10MHz games, also the largest PCB variant

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/EDviXRh.jpg
note that the audio chip is visible on the bottom left, is upright, and has a large heat sync, the volume knob is above the audio amp and the dip switches are perpendicular to the JAMMA edge.
CPS1 "Short" Board (10MHz)
Good for playing 10MHz games, also the smallest PCB variant

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/GTFN9Vr.jpg
note that the PCB is so short that you can't even see the audio chip under the B-Board, the audio amp is laid flat to fit under the B-board, the volume knob is moved to the left edge of the board so that it is still accessible and all of the dip switches are parallel with the JAMMA edge.
CPS1 "Dash" Board (12MHz)
Good for 12MHz games (some 10MHz games will run fast). this is the ideal candidate for a CPS1 multi

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/4e6k3q7.jpg
Dimensionally and layout-wise this is nearly identical to the "short" board. the easiest way to tell if it's a "Dash" board is to look for the "CPS-Dash" sticker behind the dip switches. outside of the sticker the only way to tell the difference is to look for the crystal and see if it's labeled as 12MHz or 10MHz. 12MHz games, as seen here, tend to have shorter b-boards exposing more of the A-Board below.
CPS1.5 "Q-Sound" Board (12MHz + Q-Sound)
only good for CPS1.5 games

A-Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/8SD9L5K.jpg/
Q-Sound Board alone: https://i.imgur.com/SWDANNg.jpg
All of these games come in a black plastic case with a filter-board (in this picture you can see the lower half of the case and the filter-board), also note that there is an additional Q-SOUND PCB in the stack between the A and B boards which has audio chips is on the top left rather than the bottom left. The A board is similar to the CPS-Dash board but does not have the audio section populated.
Upgrading a 10MHz PCB to 12MHz
According to Apocalypse even if you do have a 10MHz board it can be upgraded to a 12MHz by replacing the crystal: Interest Check: Darksoft CPS1 Multi - Unofficial
Most games should work on either board, there will just be more slow-downs on the 10MHz variants.
This image shows where this crystal is located.
Here are the different games and which board they're compatible with:
10MHz (can only use 10MHz board)
1941: Counter Attack
Captain Commando
Carrier Air Wing/U.S. Navy
Dynasty Wars/Tenchi wo Kurau (12MHz version also available)
Final Fight
Forgotten Worlds/Lost World
Ganbare! Marine Kun
Ghouls'n Ghosts/Daimakaimura (12MHz version also available)
The King of Dragons
Knights of the Round
Magic Sword: Heroic Fantasy
Mega Twins/Chiki Chiki Boys
Mercs/Senjou no Ookami II
Nemo
Pokonyan! Balloon
Street Fighter II: The World Warrior
Strider/Strider Hiryu (12MHz version also available)
Three Wonders
U.N. Squadron/Area 88 (12MHz version also available)
Willow
12MHz (can only use "Dash" board)
Adventure Quiz Capcom World 2
Area 88 (10MHz version also available)
Daimakaimura (10MHz version also available)
Mega Man: The Power Battle/Rockman: The Power Battle
Pang! 3
Pnickies
Quiz & Dragons: Capcom Quiz Game
Quiz Tonosama no Yabou 2: Zenkoku-ban
Street Fighter II': Champion Edition
Street Fighter II': Hyper Fighting
Street Fighter Zero
Strider Hiryu (10MHz version also available)
Tenchi wo Kurau (10MHz version also available)
Varth: Operation Thunderstorm
Q-Sound (can only use "Q-Sound" board)
Cadillacs and Dinosaurs
Muscle Bomber Duo
The Punisher
Saturday Night Slam Masters/Muscle Bomber: The Body Explosion
Warriors of Fate/Tenchi wo Kurau II: Sekiheki no Tatakai/Sangokushi II
I'm still very much a CPS noob so please correct any inaccuracies I may have posted, but hopefully these pictures and descriptions will help people seek out and buy the right PCBs for their CPS projects.
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